Doug,
I used lizard skin ceramic under the hood of my '77. Stripped bare, acid etch with eastwood convertor, then eastwood rust encapsulator, then the lizard skin ceramic. excellent product. keeps heat from penetrating to outside of the hood.
I am going to spray lizard skin the inside of the firewall (passenger compartment, possibly the inside floor, & under hood, of the MK2. Then top coat with lizard skin sound deadner INSIDE the car. Then spray sound deadner inside the doors.


Keep in mind, that my intention is NO carpet, boat canvas interior panels, and coco mats - two seats and a roll cage.

I've used dyan mat also in other cars - works well. Also used a thermal cool product in the tunnel of the '77 and firewall - sandwich of quilted aluminum, insulation, and high heat tape - worked well also. I will do the firewall and tunnel of the MK2 with this product.


pictures: foil in tunnel and behind stock firewall cardboard. Currently air is not working. 462 engine heat and 700 R4 trans heat does not get into the cabin. Stock insulation still inside cabin firewall and under carpet. Exhaust system is ceramic coated inside and out.


picture: under hood with lizard skin ceramic applied.


I'm going to use the quilted foil in the rear muffler pockets (outside/underside) of the '77, in addition to the stock high heat painted factory cardboard, and ceramic coated mufflers. Tanks being in the wing of the '77, I still have heat issues I do not like inside the trunk.


Rambling here as thoughts come. Good lizard skin video on you tube of a guy spraying the inside of a 56 chev (I think) he beats on the car before and after for effect. It got rid of the oil can sound. When you read their literature, they say that you can top coat with paint, but it needs to be a flexible paint so not to kill the effect. Not sure what would work. That's when I'd be calling for tech support.


As always, enjoy watching & reading about your build,


Regards,

 

Thanks everyone for the suggestions on insulation. I think I'll go with a stick on sound dampener inside the tub and doors (Second Skin makes a heavy foil-backed product that looks high quality/stupid expensive). I was actually able to fit the XJR carpets into the Mark 2, and this is backed with a thick layer of foam - hopefully together this will make for a reasonably quiet ride. I like the idea of a reflective multi-layer insulation blanket on the engine side of the firewall for heat protection - Second Skin again has what looks like a good product for this application, so we'll give it a shot.

We wrapped up the brake and fuel line fabrication and install this weekend. I used a heavy wall cunifer alloy (cupro nickel) - flares nicely and doesn't corrode but I should have used a tube straightener. We'll install the sunroof frame and fabricate the headliner panel next while the beast is still on the rotisserie - then onto jack stands for the drive train install.

 

Doug,
Looks great.


thanks on the tubing straightener! Was choking on their price. Just have to say to myself it's ok to feed the toolaholic in me.

 

As seems to frequently be the case lately not a lot of progress to report. I spent way too much time fabricating a headliner panel using the guts of the XJR original and fiberglass to fit it to the Mark 2. Primaz seems to know when to call the professionals but I'm just not that bright I guess. At any rate it's ready for foam and fabric and should do the trick.

The XJR and Mark 2 parts arrived over the past 2 weeks and this weekend is dedicated to the rear suspension rebuild. New bushings are installed and the XJR calipers were painted satin black to match the AP Racing calipers up front. I used a can of VHT aerosol caliper paint and have no idea if it will hold up - not too confident being a single stage paint.

With the 4.0 liter V8 I was wondering what to do about the grill badge, and noticed the Callum car has a generic growler with no displacement numbers. An astute (and patient) parts guy was on his knees in the showroom looking at the current offering of grill badges and was about to give up when he noticed a match - the center wheel cap on the F Type. It's a little bright for my taste but we'll see how it looks when the car is all done up.

 

Growler looks GREAT!

 

Doug,


Here are some pics of my headers, these are stock aftermarket headers for LS1 V8 conversions so they are more of the shorty style. I found three different shorty type headers for LS V8''s and as you would expect I ended up trying three and the third one was the one that fits in the Jag. Even with these headers I had to take a hammer and create a small indent to clear one spot on the driver side.


One other tip is these shots were before driving the car a lot and I have added "Heat Shield" products, header shield that covers about 70% of the headers. These are NOT full wraps! More of silver insulation that works great as that has reduced the heat enormously. I have tow triangle openings on each side to help air vent but this special shield was needed as my air horn compressor failed after a month due to heat and stock starters would not handle it even with wrap. I now use a MSD starter rated for racing and extreme heat. I will post some pics soon so you can see the material. I still have to add some more when I have time using stainless wire ties.


As I said the round body around the front grill is old school brass and I did not think of it until later when I had cracks on those seams due to the power of the V8. We fiberglassed all of those seams and that works great with no problems!

 

Primaz, thanks again for the header pics. As I mentioned the Jag V8 heads seem lower than the LS motor so I'm not sure I have clearance for the downward sweeps - we'll mount the motor one more time and see what the options are as I'm not sure how well the manifold setup I have will breath.

We would have had the rear end buttoned up except for two back ordered bushings for the lower control arms - they need to be pressed in so mounting the rear will have to wait. In the meantime we wrapped up the interior sound dampener and bulkhead heat insulation - not enough of the latter for the trans tunnel which I suspect is important - so the motor-trans install will have to wait. It's always something.

 

Dear Doug

I have a 1936 ford coupe which is very nearly the same weight as

Your car and as I wish to fit the front end from a mark2 Jaguar to it

I just love the idea that you have had in fitting the coil over shocks to it

and I intend to make mine exactly as you have done yours so would it

be at all possible that you can give me

A=the open and closed length of the shockies and the stroke of them

B= and the spring rate you have chosen ( very important)

C= do you have the QA1 part number for the coil over units

I think you have done a very good engineering change to the front of an

already well designed front end and so I am looking forward to a good result


Thanks in advance for any information you may chose to send to me

Emma351

my email address is emma351@dodo.com.au (in Tasmania)

 

Emma, I tried responding with a private message but it wouldn't send - hopefully you'll see this post. Scroll back in this thread to post #62 for the shock and spring specs I used. You might also consider one of the bolt on suspension kits available here in the States - there are a number of companies that cater to the old Fords. I'm wondering if you have the only '36 in Tasmania? Good luck with your project.

In researching custom header options for the XJR V8 I was told by a couple of folks the log style manifolds I have should be fine because of the blower - it was suggested equal length headers might add 10 hp or so. With that I went ahead and had the manifolds coated by Jet Hot - the ceramic material applied with a plasma spray isn't cheap but everyone I spoke to said it makes a tremendous reduction in heat transfer. Thanks for the rec Primaz.

We finished up the rear suspension rebuild and installation. The final wheel offset and halfshaft shims got the wheels positioned and cambered just right. The Mark 2 tail tapers in at the rear so wheel position is a bit of a compromise, but I'm pleased with the look.

Before the motor/trans went in we changed the trans filter and installed new trans and oil pan gaskets. The unit's been sitting on the floor for a couple of years now and I didn't want to risk any oil leaks from compressed gaskets. We also pulled the trans to empty the torque converter which holds a few quarts of oil. I couldn't find a remote oil filter adapter to fit the Jag motor - this was needed since the filter fouled the frame rail The filter nipple has a 1"-12 thread which is unusual, but I found something close and purchased a tap which worked fine on the soft aluminum.

While we had the room we installed the radiator, AC condenser, intercooler and fans in the nose before dropping in the motor/trans. Everything fit well and looks workmanlike which makes all the design and fab effort worthwhile.
With the drive train complete we should be able to complete the front suspension rebuild and get it installed tomorrow. At that point we'd have a roller but for a delay in getting the wheels from Dayton. There must not be too much demand for 17x8 center lace wires as they have to order the stampings from a supplier and have them chromed. There's something about getting a project back on its tires that makes you feel you're in the home stretch. Maybe by Christmas. Here are a few pics.

 

Thanks for the info Doug it was exactly what I was looking for

Were the 14" springs on the front too long to set the correct ride height as they look a little bit too long in the pix you posted to be able to let them down much if needs be

There are quite a few 36 fords here of all body types ( no WINDOWS but) as they were imported from Canada back in the day in Knock down form and assembled in a place called Geelong in Victoria mine is body number 1253 so there were many more after mine no doubt
hard to say how many are left

The mustang 2 type front end here are over $4,000.00 complete and they are just like the MK2 jag which are $200.00 not hard to do that math especially as the Jag works and is easy to replace if needed and comes
with 4 pot calipers for good measure

Thanks for the reply
emma351

 

after the line all body types in brackets it should read ( no 3 windows but)
emma351

 

Emma, the springs in the pics here are unloaded for installation. I have yet to set final ride height on this project - spring rates were based on corner weights.

 

once again thanks for the good information

When you have your vehicle on the road and have all the coil overs adjusted and set up

Could you please let us know how it rides and if the springs at both ends are the real

deal and good to ride on

I was wondering why they only recommend 225lbs springs on a car that has a weight

of around 750-800Lbs on each corner

What were the weights of your car front and rear

Thanks emma351

 

Emma, the spring rate is per inch of compression, so a 225 lb spring will basically support 900 lbs at 4 inches of compression. Suspension geometry also influences spring rate so you need to calculate motion ratio and spring angle. There are lots of calculators available on the shock/spring manufacturer web sites. The best thing to do is get access to some race scales and weigh the corners of your car and work with whichever coil over manufacturer you decide to go with - they all seem to have good tech staffs willing to help. My corner weights were 868 lb front and 747 lb rear net (dry) and 955 lb front and 923 lb rear gross (front passengers and full fuel). I'll definitely post how the beast rides and performs - hopefully by next summer.

 

thanks for all the useful information and the prompt replies very generous of you
I will look forward to seeing your car on the road and reading the ride report
Thanks emma351

 

We installed the front suspension carrier and got all the components installed including the steering rack, rotors and calipers. The AC compressor and alternator are a tight fit so we loosened the motor mounts on the frame rails and lifted the motor about an inch to ease the installation - the price you pay for stuffing a motor in that doesn't belong there. Dayton called to advise the wheels were being shipped sooner than expected so we should have the beast on all fours next weekend.

 

The beast is finally on the ground. Front camber looks a little extreme and we're toeing out a bit but she rolls well. The ride height adjustment is a simple matter of rotating a large nut that's threaded on the shock body and compresses the coil spring - the front required a little over an inch and the rear about half an inch at this point with so little weight back there. When the car is fully loaded we should be very close to the proper spring compression for normal ride height. It's a little hard to judge the wheel and tire size without the doors but I think the 17" wheel and 45 profile tire was the right choice. The only things left to do on the underside is to install the exhaust system and connect brake and fuel lines. Once the steering column is in we'll start on the wiring harnesses and electrical components - and hope everything works.

 

Looks AMAZING! It has got to be exciting to put it back on the ground.






Almost put mine on the ground, but found too many easy things to do, rather than interrupt for a photo opp.

 

Looking good, Doug! Great progress.
Lin

 

looking very good,