The Lord Unicorn Fury
#21
12-12-2020, 12:51 PM
Im thinking about wheels... some i want are $1000 each and that im just not willing to do. Want to keep to 350 each or less.
I do like these but im uncertain still
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SleekJag12 (12-14-2020)
#23
12-12-2020, 12:54 PM
Welcome. Its interesting that when I was teen, if you had a four door car, it meant only one thing, that your parents got a new car and gave you the hand-me-down. Nobody under 30 bought a sedan unless they were married. But while I wouldn't have wanted one then, I aspired to get a Jaguar sedan someday because I saw doctors and lawyers driving them. I'd still like to have a Series 3. Up through the 80s, most all cars were available in both two and four door versions, but by the 90s, most manufacturers were only making four door versions and you even started to see 4-door cars like the Subaru WRX outfitted with performance equipment and being rallied. I guess if you grew up in the 90s, four door sedans were the norm for teens.
Sadly with these cars, owners rarely are willing to invest in a total repaint because to have it done properly at a shop costs more than the value of the finished car and to do it yourself at home takes skills that the typical novice doesn't have time to develop (i.e. maybe if you were retired and had nothing else to do). But I would warn to avoid the temptation to get one of those cheap baked enamel jobs from some place like Maaco. It'll look ok from 10 feet away but will look really disappointing in five years and then it'll add 50% to the cost to have it done over again the right way as then they'll have to strip off all the baked enamel before they can start over again (actually cost about twice as much to remove as it cost to apply).
I don't have any experience with the films that rearaxle mentioned, but it sounds intriguing. Professionally applied wraps can be nearly as expensive as paint, but it looks like its far more DIY-friendly than paint since if you mess up, its no big deal to peel it off and do it over. My main beefs with wraps are the ones I've seen at local car shows often have obvious exposed edges (sometimes starting to lift) and the jambs around the doors, hood and trunk are often a totally different color and give it away. Certainly its possible to R&R all the trim in the process to hide the edges (just like you would for a proper paint job) but it must be incredibly difficult or maybe impossible to cover the compound curves in the jambs or more people would do it. I'd probably stay away from the "satin" finishes depending how you plan to use the car. Satin can look fabulous at the car shows, but those are purely weekend toys. All the daily drivers I see on the road and in the local parking lots with satin finishes look like absolute crap from all the accumulated fine scratches, often made worse by what look like futile attempts to remove them. It'd be better to stick with a gloss so you can polish it. I enjoy the AMMO NYC detailing videos and just watched one about polishing scratches out of vinyl wrap. Apparently it can be done, but its much slower than polishing paint because you have to be careful not to heat it up. If you decide to try a DIY vinyl wrap, I would be interested to read about it.
Sadly with these cars, owners rarely are willing to invest in a total repaint because to have it done properly at a shop costs more than the value of the finished car and to do it yourself at home takes skills that the typical novice doesn't have time to develop (i.e. maybe if you were retired and had nothing else to do). But I would warn to avoid the temptation to get one of those cheap baked enamel jobs from some place like Maaco. It'll look ok from 10 feet away but will look really disappointing in five years and then it'll add 50% to the cost to have it done over again the right way as then they'll have to strip off all the baked enamel before they can start over again (actually cost about twice as much to remove as it cost to apply).
I don't have any experience with the films that rearaxle mentioned, but it sounds intriguing. Professionally applied wraps can be nearly as expensive as paint, but it looks like its far more DIY-friendly than paint since if you mess up, its no big deal to peel it off and do it over. My main beefs with wraps are the ones I've seen at local car shows often have obvious exposed edges (sometimes starting to lift) and the jambs around the doors, hood and trunk are often a totally different color and give it away. Certainly its possible to R&R all the trim in the process to hide the edges (just like you would for a proper paint job) but it must be incredibly difficult or maybe impossible to cover the compound curves in the jambs or more people would do it. I'd probably stay away from the "satin" finishes depending how you plan to use the car. Satin can look fabulous at the car shows, but those are purely weekend toys. All the daily drivers I see on the road and in the local parking lots with satin finishes look like absolute crap from all the accumulated fine scratches, often made worse by what look like futile attempts to remove them. It'd be better to stick with a gloss so you can polish it. I enjoy the AMMO NYC detailing videos and just watched one about polishing scratches out of vinyl wrap. Apparently it can be done, but its much slower than polishing paint because you have to be careful not to heat it up. If you decide to try a DIY vinyl wrap, I would be interested to read about it.
#24
12-14-2020, 12:06 PM
Nothing is ever easy.
18's on this car. The car was never designed for those type of wheels and I don't think your going to be happy with the ride. You need to remember that 17's were the on the sport and the R version. These
models suspension were tuned for these lower profile tires. I have 17's on my S-type sport 4.0 and it rides like a truck. But that is expected. It is a sport version. Our X-type has 17's and it suffers the same
ride issues. The car handles great, but the trade off is excessive road noise and a firm ride. I am considering going to 16's on one of them. Another problem we have had with the 17's on our X-types, is tire
pressure. We have had issues with tires just going flat. I've lost two tires at highway speed, because the tire lost the bead on the rim. We have gotten in the habit of checking our tires before we hop in the
car. On all three of our X-type's, we have found tires flat for no other reason than the tire loosed the bead. I'm pretty fed up with these 17" factory wheels. I can't trust them. I live in Minnesota, which has
some severe weather and temperature changes. I happen to believe this is a big part of our problem with these wheels. They expand and contract constantly with the temperature changes.
But that is the what you can expect with a low profile tire. The tire sidewall has less "give" and that means a more harsh ride. That cup holder on the console. Don't be surprised when it just pops open all
by itself or when the tray tables in the back fall down on their own.
As for you paint and finish decisions. If you don't plan to drive you car year round, (I see snow there). A good paint job would not be the wrong decision. As for adding a Pearl to the clear coat. This is
no big deal. I've used Pearl on my son's car. He had a Dodge Avenger. It actually turned out nice. I did use a little too much. I put Red Pearl over black. In the dark it looked black but in the sun it turned
purple. That wasn't the plan but it was cool. When they apply the clear. In the second coat the Pearl is added to the clear. Then they shoot the final coat of clear over that. This gives the paint some depth.
Pearl is nothing more then an additive. The big deal is that you shoot Pearl like you shoot a metallic. You need to watch you patterns for build up. Its pretty easy to get too much if you don't keep moving.
The last word about Pearl. If you have to repair a panel. It is very difficult to match it. If you go the route of using a Pearl. Make sure that the painter documents exactly how many grams of Pearl they added
to a pint, and be sure to save some of that Pearl powder just in case. It's hard to match and it's about particle dispersion. How many particles in a square centimeter will dictate the reflective nature of the
Pearl coat. Too much and it looks like a metallic base coat. Which is what happened with my son's car. We got just a little too much and it caused the Pearl to dominate the black in the sunlight. With Pearl,
less is better. You only want to see a hint of the Pearl in the sunlight. I've seen Blue Pearl on white. It gives the car an Electric look. It's awesome.
Last edited by Rearaxle; 12-14-2020 at 12:19 PM.
#25
12-14-2020, 12:19 PM
Maybe I'm old fashion. As the years pass, I realize how much I sound like my father. He always pushed back with a more conservative view point. With that said, I would suggest you reconsider putting 18's on this car.
The car was never designed for those type of wheels and I don't think your going to be happy with the ride. You need to remember that 17's were the on the sport and the R version. These models suspension were
tuned for these lower profile tires. I have 17's on my S-type sport 4.0 and it rides like a truck. But that is expected. It is a sport version. Our X-type has 17's and it suffers the same ride issues. The car handles great, but
the trade off is excessive road noise and a firm ride. I am considering going to 16's on one of them. Another problem we have had with the 17's on our X-types, is tire pressure. We have had issues with tires just going flat.
I've lost two tires at highway speed, because the tire lost the bead on the rim. We have gotten in the habit of checking our tires before we hop in the car. On all three of our X-type's, we have found tires flat for no other
reason than the tire loosed the bead. I'm pretty fed up with these 17" factory wheels. I can't trust them. But that is the what you can expect with a low profile tire. The tire sidewall has less "give" and that means a more
harsh ride. That cup holder on the console. Don't be surprised when it just pops open all by itself or when the tray tables in the back fall down on their own.
As for you paint and finish decisions. If you don't plan to drive you car year round, (I see snow there). A good paint job would not be the wrong decision. As for adding a Pearl to the clear coat. This is no big deal. I've
used Pearl on my son's car. He had a Dodge Avenger. It actually turned out nice. I did use a little too much. I put Red Pearl over black. In the dark it looked black but in the sun it turned purple. That wasn't the plan but
it was cool. When they apply the clear. In the second coat the Pearl is added to the clear. Then they shoot the final coat of clear over that. This gives the paint some depth. Pearl is nothing more then an additive. The
big deal is that you shoot Pearl like you shoot a metallic. You need to watch you patterns for build up. Its pretty easy to get too much if you don't keep moving. The last word about Pearl. If you have to repair a panel.
It is very difficult to match it. If you go the route of using a Pearl. Make sure that the painter documents exactly how many grams of Pearl they added to a pint, and be sure to save some of that Pearl powder just in case.
It's hard to match and it's about particle dispersion. How many particles in a square centimeter will dictate the reflective nature of the Pearl coat. Too much and it looks like a metallic base coat. Which is what happened
with my son's car. We got just a little too much and it caused the Pearl to dominate the black in the sunlight. With Pearl, less is better. You only want to see a hint of the Pearl in the sunlight. I've seen Blue Pearl on white.
It gives the car an Electric look. It's awesome.
The car was never designed for those type of wheels and I don't think your going to be happy with the ride. You need to remember that 17's were the on the sport and the R version. These models suspension were
tuned for these lower profile tires. I have 17's on my S-type sport 4.0 and it rides like a truck. But that is expected. It is a sport version. Our X-type has 17's and it suffers the same ride issues. The car handles great, but
the trade off is excessive road noise and a firm ride. I am considering going to 16's on one of them. Another problem we have had with the 17's on our X-types, is tire pressure. We have had issues with tires just going flat.
I've lost two tires at highway speed, because the tire lost the bead on the rim. We have gotten in the habit of checking our tires before we hop in the car. On all three of our X-type's, we have found tires flat for no other
reason than the tire loosed the bead. I'm pretty fed up with these 17" factory wheels. I can't trust them. But that is the what you can expect with a low profile tire. The tire sidewall has less "give" and that means a more
harsh ride. That cup holder on the console. Don't be surprised when it just pops open all by itself or when the tray tables in the back fall down on their own.
As for you paint and finish decisions. If you don't plan to drive you car year round, (I see snow there). A good paint job would not be the wrong decision. As for adding a Pearl to the clear coat. This is no big deal. I've
used Pearl on my son's car. He had a Dodge Avenger. It actually turned out nice. I did use a little too much. I put Red Pearl over black. In the dark it looked black but in the sun it turned purple. That wasn't the plan but
it was cool. When they apply the clear. In the second coat the Pearl is added to the clear. Then they shoot the final coat of clear over that. This gives the paint some depth. Pearl is nothing more then an additive. The
big deal is that you shoot Pearl like you shoot a metallic. You need to watch you patterns for build up. Its pretty easy to get too much if you don't keep moving. The last word about Pearl. If you have to repair a panel.
It is very difficult to match it. If you go the route of using a Pearl. Make sure that the painter documents exactly how many grams of Pearl they added to a pint, and be sure to save some of that Pearl powder just in case.
It's hard to match and it's about particle dispersion. How many particles in a square centimeter will dictate the reflective nature of the Pearl coat. Too much and it looks like a metallic base coat. Which is what happened
with my son's car. We got just a little too much and it caused the Pearl to dominate the black in the sunlight. With Pearl, less is better. You only want to see a hint of the Pearl in the sunlight. I've seen Blue Pearl on white.
It gives the car an Electric look. It's awesome.
ive had 18’s before, and 20’s with no issues, and i am looking at the different factory 17’s... but its been lowered in priority to the paint, stereo system and a few little common fixes cause ive got good tires, and it looks nice still
#26
12-14-2020, 12:30 PM
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