Hello group..

New around here and to this make of car. I have much to learn about this car, and taking car of it. Seems they have a bad rap, but from what I have been reading. Unless it is a catastrophic failure, most of the issues are maintenance related or just the nature of the beast. You can't pack that much stuff in a moving car and never expect a problem.

Well the first challenge I am having is getting the cars title moved over to my name, (CA and the back taxes are horrible) Taking my total price of the car from 700 to 1100... Hoping that is still a good starting point for the 89.

Back to being on hold with the NV DMV to see if they can work with this title. Since it was filled out wrong from the seller (rather the person I traded a dirt bike for.)

A little about me. I work for Union Pacific railroad as a locomotive engineer. I am moving from Reno, NV to around Roseville, CA. Not sure at this point where around Roseville I will end up. My family is still in Reno. Not wanting to pull our girls out of school I am renting a room from a co-worker till the end of the school year.

My other hobby is ham radio.. Besides work, and family I have just enough time to keep a hobby that can be done around the house. Like work on the XJ40 and take it for plenty of "test" drives

 

Ah good news... I just need to fill out a bill of sale and have the old owner sign it. Take that and the title to NV, and I am golden. No back fee's..

WOO HOO, back to 700 dollar starting point (whew)

 

You traded a dirt bike for THAT, KC7??!!! Boy Howdy did you get the better deal!!

Welcome, by the way, and LnrB = Elinor B.

Yes. Jaguars have a reputation for being hard to keep up. In truth, how many other 1989 vintage cars do you see on the road? People who like their Jags tend to keep them. People who hate their Jags, for whatever reason, dump them and bad mouth them FOREVER!!

You are entering this relationship (owning a Jaguar IS a relationship) with the right idea. Any time you get a used car from an individual, there's a reason they got rid of it, usually more than one. Most of those reasons center around deferred maintenance and/or neglect until there are simply too many things to fix. (That's how I got mine) You already know you'll find surprises, some of them will perhaps be quite nasty. But it's a used car! Tail light guarantee!

You'll find lots of help here from lots of very knowledgeable people. Enjoy.
(';')

 

Welcome to the forum KC7STW,

Good to have you with us at Jaguar forums.

I think you got a great deal on the dirt bike from the XJ but the title issue is a nasty additional cost. Hope it's soon resolved.

I know you've already found your way to the XJ40 tech section so there's no need for a link to it from me. The 'HOW TO' thread at the top there is a good place to start for info on regular issues.

Please remember to add vehicle details to your Signature to help others to give relevant advice. Go to the User CP button on the left of the top menu bar, then Settings & Options under Your Control Panel. Select Edit Signature and enter the details.

You can also visit the US Western Region forum by following this link Western US - AK CA NV OR UT HI WA ID - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to find other members in your region.

Enjoy the forums.

Graham

 

Thanks for the warm welcomes.

I can get the title into my name.. Two ways.

One (the best) have a bill of sale for NV filled out, and take that to Reno with me and change the title, get plates and be happy..

Two (icky) pay the 393 back fee's for CA and be on my way with plates..

Going for option one. Two as a back up, if I can never seem to track down said co-worker. (don't see that as a problem)

As for car issues. It has a few. All maintenance issues. Codes are, low brake pads, low brake fluid, bulb burned out... and the one that kinda worries me. Circuit failure.

The car shudders a but over 60mph. But it could be as simple as spark plugs, or wires... I have not had the chance to look into that.

I have had other vintage cars, and my father restores cars. The problems that come with older cars do not scare me.. Well unless it goes boom and tosses a rod.. (knock on wood)

But no blue smoke, or blow by... No ticks, knocks, rattles.. Shifts smooth, and the fluids smell good..

Just want to get plates on the car and get to working on it.

I notice from hearing about horror story's on Jaguars. It seems to come from people who do NOT like working on cars, or keeping up with maintenance.

More to come on the journey, and plenty of questions.. Like how the heck do you open the gas filler door? Other then from the trunk.

 

Thank you, and I will add that information.

 

Welcome to the forum, get some more pictures up.

 

This is probably the most urgent!

Press down on the 'opening edge' of the filler door and release. It pops open.

It looks like you are around 120 miles from Reno so Option 1 for the plates seems the easy winner.

Graham

 

All I have is my cell phone. But I got a replacement tire on the back. So I can take off the spare..

Will get photos up here soon,

 

Tried that.. Does not pop open. The inside the hole the filler door pin, goes into. Has some sort of pin, that seems to be pulled in when power is applied to the magnet...

Then again, I could be wrong. Searched all over for a button tho.

Edit: reading a bit more into this.. The door is the button.. Ah, I see... Looks like a good cleaning of the mechanical parts is in order.

 

welcome to the forum - you will find plenty of info and support here - enjoy!!

 

Photos as requested...

 

Hi and welcome aboard, its good to have you here with us here at Jaguarforums

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Thank you!!!

 

Welcome to Jaguar Forums KC7stw,

Good to have you with us.
Enjoy the forum.

If you haven't done so already you should add your car details to your signature to help others to help you.
If you need help with getting around and using the forum follow this link for some help Forum Help

 

That looks really tidy, also think it's the only 1989 I have seen in that colour.

 

One of my gas caps was so maladjusted when I got my car I that it took so much tugging, wiggling, Brute Force and Awkwardness to open, was afraid I was going to break it while trying to open it. It took not only cleaning but a bit of grinding and filing to make it open/close correctly.
(';')

 

Pretty car!
(';')

 

Welcome to the forums, nice looking car. For a free parts booklet please send me your name/address info along with the vehicle model/year via PM.

 

KC

The fuel filler latch box assembly is, in short, a PIA. The solenoid, which activates the locking pin, is encased within the assembly, further the circuit board is itself is encased in an epoxy resin material that I found impossible to remove without damaging the board components. You would really need expert level equipment to remove the resin. Perhaps someone reading has a suggestion on removing the resin.

If the locking pin does move freely (you can depress it in using a flat blade screwdriver), than I would think the pressure plate/circuit at the bottom is probably shot. When the plunger that is attached to the lid is pressed down, it completes the circuit to energize the solenoid.

One thing you could do before removing the entire assembly is to use a screwdriver and apply pressure to the plate and see if it causes any effect on the pin, in my case it did nothing. If it does retract, then simply adjust the plunger under the lid.

What I did was remove the pin since I had the assembly out, put it back together, re-installed and opted to use magnets secured to the top of the assembly that had enough power to hold the fuel lid down. I have to use an item from my key chain to pry the lid from the magnets, but it beats the heck out of opening the boot every time.

Look at this link:

Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page


In regard to removing the assembly. Some have managed to remove the gaiter over the fuel filler neck (item 5 in the following link):

Fuel Filler Cap and Hoses - Parts For XJ6 (2.9, 3.2, 3.6, 4.0) from (V)500001 to (V)667828 | Jaguar Classic Parts UK

But I would caution you this method may very well damage the gaiter, as in tear it, then you have problems. Torn gaiter ... boot becomes a swimming pool.

I choose to remove the tank straps to allow for movement of the tank, it provided just enough clearance to get the assembly off of the tank neck and maneuver the assembly out of the boot. (Mind you, the tank doesn't move much, it is still connected to the under tank supply/return lines.) There are four bolts holding the fuel filler latch box assembly in place.

Another precautionary item would be to consider how you are going to seal the assembly to body when you reinstall. There is a rubber seal present when you separate assembly from body, but it's condition will determine course of action in re-sealing. If you consider the slope of the rear wing and placement of the filler opening, you can well imagine water freely filling the gaiter area, then flowing though a poorly sealed assembly/body area and filling the boot with water. Think this out before you disassemble.

Good luck, ask questions and please report back for the sake of other members who run into this in the future.