My latest buy is a 2017 xe v6 supercharged
however it came with now keys. (Salvaged title,flood)
is there a way to start the car without bringing to the dealer to program new keys to this car?

can I swap out the edu with another xe that has keys to test fire? Any advice much appreciated thank you

Goat

 

Welcome to the forums Billy Goat,

There's good reason insurers write off flood damaged Jaguars. A lot of sensitive and very expensive electronics are likely to have been destroyed. An ECM/Smartkey by itself won't be sufficient to allow the vehicle to start. It links to the Security Module and unless the two communicate correctly, the vehicle is a brick.

I can see you've already found your way to the X760 forum with this question so there's no need for a link to it from me.

Please add vehicle details to your Signature to help others to give relevant advice. Go to the User CP button on the left of the top menu bar, then Settings & Options under Your Control Panel. Select Edit Signature and enter the details.

You can also use the US Northeast Region forum by following this link https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/us-northeast-35/ to find other members in your region.

Good luck with your project and enjoy the forums.

Graham

 

Welcome aboard.

 

Welcome to the Forums.

 

Welcome to Jaguar Forums Billy Goat,

Good to have you with us.
Enjoy the forum.

If you haven't done so already you should add your car details to your signature to help others to help you.
If you need help with getting around and using the forum follow this link for some help Forum Help

 

welcome to the forum - enjoy!!!

 

Hello,
I wish you success getting your new Jaguar on the road,
Welcome to the forums from ElinorB.
(';')

 

Hi Gramm,

yes I am and was fully aware that a flood car is now worth trying to restore, let alone one like a Jag. with lots of computers and such.

But this is my situation. Hoping someone on here has some knowledge

Do you know if I pull a KVM from a known working jag xe 2017 and place into this vehicle will it start the car? If so do you happen to know where the KVM's are located.

I bought 3 jag xe's 1 2018 was hit in the front, 2nd 2017 was hit in the rear, now this 3rd 2017 was in a flood. My idea is to use the flood car for parts and fix the other two. However I would like to see if the flood vehical will start and if the motor is any good. I hook power to the car and everything lights up, seat move forward and back, trunk pops open. dash lights up and say it only has 9,665 miles. So I would like to hear the motor run that way I can sell the motor (v6 supercharged). However in order to do so I need a key. I hate to two the car down to the dealer and spend $300 plus dollars just to see if they can program two keys. I can buy two new oem keys on ebay for around $250. But again hate to put out all the cash just to never use the keys.
Thats why I am hoping to pull a KVM from my other car and place into this Flood car to see if it will start.

Any and all comments are much appreciated.
Thank you so much
Goat

 

To best of my knowledge only dealers can reprogram keys on a modern Jaguar and all security modules need to be paired with the rest of the car. I am 99% certain this is the case on all latest Jaguar cars, but I am not certain when the switch over happened on XE. I think it was in 2017.

Once you resolve this issue, before you start flooded car make 100% sure there is good engine oil in it. I also recommend taking scope and looking inside cylinders. If some water got in (and it wasn't running at the time), you can make situation much worse by cranking it with water still in. If insides are dry, but there is rust - use old "pull plugs and soak with ATF overnight" trick prior to starting.

You already know that buying a flooded car is a bad idea - you don't know the scope of mechanical damage, you will have to redo a lot of electronics, and nobody will want to buy it anywhere near list value.

 

Thank you for all the info. Yes I went into buying this car just for parts. Never the intentions of fixing to drive. I have two other xe's one was hit in the rear other front. So figured a flood car would be perfect for parts.

However once having this flood car it appeared to be not flooded much at all. With power connected everything lights up seats move front and back, trunk pops, odometer says 9,665 miles That made me think I bet this will run. Looking farther into it I saw no traces of water Nothing under the seats not even in the air vent under the seat. All seat tracks are super clean, door pockets, glove box, even under the rear seat when pulled up, further more nothing under the battery in the trunk.
Then I started to notice and realized this car is too clean the insurance company cleaned the hell out of it, now I'm noticing rust marks on the rear seat hinges and small traces of missed cleanings under side plastic covers on the side of diver and passenger seat. Also the steering wheel leather is a bit warped must be water damage.

with all that said going back to plan A using as a parts car. Yet I still feel the Motor is good and will run. Just need a way to test fire to be sure after all is a v6 supercharged with less the 10k miles.

Thanks again for all the words of advice much appreciated and will be utilized

 

Welcome to the forums.

 

Hi All,

Update turns out i was not able to pull the KVM from my other car being they switched kvm systems mid year and they are different.

However I was able to pull out my KVM box from the 2017 Jaguar xe and mail it out to a place in the bronx NYC we was able to program a single to to my kvm and believe it or not it worked! Thats one key added to my system for $330 us, including shipping. way better then any dealer and i did not have to leave my house. The dealer wanted to charge 2 keys at $500 each plus 1-2 hours labor.

Now that I have a key for the car I was able to text out some systems, everything seems to work, with the exception the car does not turn over. sadly. I did some digging and found the slow blow fuse in the trunk was blown 450 amp. replaced that yet still did not turn over. Pulled the starter and tested. Starter works just like it should. Now I am not sure what to try next? Thinking to put the starter back in, pull all the spark plugs and jump out the starter see if i can get the engine to turn over. hmmmm
Here is what I have found so far all the seats, windows, sunroof, wipers,radio, lights, blinkers, auto trunk, locks, auto adjust steering wheel, fuel pump, All work just like they should. Just nothing happens when I push the button to start. All I get is a small click then nothing.

Any and all incite and feed back would be much appreciated.

 

Good progress.

Both the standard and the auto stop/start starting are passive systems controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The PCM initiates starting system operation when a valid smart key is in the vehicle and the engine stop/start switch is pressed.

The PCM controls operation of the starter motor through a starter relay in the Engine Junction Box 2 (EJB 2). Are you getting power to the relay and is the relay good?

Graham

 

hi Graham

Best I could tell the pcm is getting power and the relays are good.

with all that being said, I have found the motor is shot, the reason it won’t start is the motor is seized up and won’t turn over. I found this out by removing the starter, when the starter was on the ground I jumped it out with a battery and remote starter switch. That confirmed the starter did in fact work as it should, next I bolted the starter back into the car leaving the car wires off, hooked up the remote starter switch and battery with jumper cables direct to the starter. Once that was set I removed all the spark plugs to give the engine a easy turn over. Hit the switch! Nothing. Clicking. Ends up the motor is seized up.
Guess I should of tried that before spending the money on getting a key made.

in the end I did buy this car originally as a parts car, just got excited to see it was a supercharged v6 with all the bells and whistles things like the rear window sun screen pop up and heated rear seats as well as electronic steering wheel adjustment.

now that I know I won’t feel bad tearing this car parts utilizing every part I need to complete my other two jag. Xe’s not that they are as equipped with all these extras and only 4 cylinders, although one is awd the other just rear.

All and all I’m sure I will be ahead of the game, I even bet someone will even want to buy this seized up v6 motor. I’m sure there is value there to the right person

Thanks you all for the response and much needed help, if you have any questions or pictures of different parts on a XE as I start taking things apart feel free to reach out.

 

Ok scratch my last post. I am able to get the motor to turn over and crank under its own power. I was all ready to throw in the towel. Then I talked to my brother and that got me thinking. As a result I was able to get the motor to crank with the remote start with the spark plugs being out. Then I reconnected the starter in the car. When I said to my self this will be the true test see if this is really the right key. Sure enough it cranked over like a dream. It spit and spudders but did not start. Couple things I had to fix a fuel line that popped apart on the driver side rear right in front of the rear tire. Looks as if someone must of disconnected the fitting and broke it. being the fuel line popped off and half the fitting was gone. Then I put a fresh 5 gallons of premium fuel in the car gauge says half tank. Also bought some starting fluid. Just for that extra kick.
I cranked the car again, same thing spit and spudders as if its trying to start but no go. I sprayed some starting fluid into the air intake manifold. Made no difference with or without the starting fluid.

I swapped out a bunch of relays under the hood and in the trunk from my other xe. then started my red xe just to test those relays. Sure enough it started and ran smooth

Thinking its something electronic? Maybe the PCM? Any suggestions most welcome

attached is pictures of the remote start connected, not the greatest pics.

 

You've definitely got the first essential for starting now that it's turning over and the "spitting and spluttering" suggests fuel is getting to the injector which makes two out of three. There will be a metering valve and a fuel pressure sensor determining the delivery so a problem there could be inhibiting fuel pressure.

There's a lot of electronics involved in a cold start. At the basic level the ECM calculates the ignition timing for individual cylinders from the following inputs:1. engine speed from CKP (crankshaft position) sensor
2. camshaft position from exhaust and intake CMP (camshaft position) sensors
3. engine temperature from the IAT/ECT (air and coolant temperature) sensors
Narrowing things down is going to need diagnostics. Have you tried a code reader yet?

Graham

 

Hi graham.

I have not tried a code reader, do you recommend any for this car? Something that won't cost a ton?

 

For the starting issues you only need a basic one to read powertrain Pxxxx codes. Just about any code reader should do.

Once you get beyond that the B (body), C (chassis) and U (network) codes require Jaguar SDD (Symptom Driven Diagnostics) or equivalent and that gets expensive.

Graham

 

Thank you for all the help, I am happy to say I GOT IT RUNNING!. I also was able to drive it around the block. Wish I could post some videos here.

over night I was thinking about it as well as ordered a scan tool. Today I thought I wonder if being I have the air intake hose off. If that will make a difference. Not that any electronics are attached to the hose. However there are some before the hose on the two air filter box’s. The reason I had that off yesterday was due to spraying starting fluid directly into the intake.
this is my theory, not sure the hose had much to do with it, but once I tried it sounded like it really wanted to run. I mean it was close. I tried twice let it sit, tried two more let it sit. 6th time I pumped the throttle and boom! It was running and smoking like a mother f’er. Lol. I’m sure from having a quart and half of atf fluid poured between all cylinder. Although most if not all got sprayed out after I was able to crank it over. However before I installed the spark plugs I sprayed a bunch of wd40 and engine fogger in each cylinder yesterday.
my guess is between all the oil and starting fluid the engine was flooded with fuel and needed to sit. That’s way it started today.

I turn the car off and it fires right back up, it Idols, revs up, and still smokes. I’m sure it will take time to burn off all the oil.

do you or anyone know what type of atf fluid goes in the transmission? Also the rear dif?, as well as what type of radiator fluid, the rad fluid now look orange type? I want to change them all.

you all and graham are a huge support

p.s I’m still going to need that reader seems there are a bunch of fault codes coming up in the dash. Even that SDD reader or take it to someone who has it.

 

Great news.

Here's the transmission and diff fluid specifications:








The coolant is orange OAT Extended Life meeting WSS M97B44 specification.

Graham