Tele-converter
#1
Tele-converter
Hi - anybody has any experience using a tele-converter before?
I use a Canon D-SLR, previously Rebel XT, now an XTi. I spend most of my vacations going to national parks, and I took lots of wildlife pictures. I am normally using a 70-300mm zoom f4-5.6, just an entry level zoom. I am considering buying a tele converter, since sometimes circumstance does not allow getting closer to the wildlife. Last fall I went to Glacier NP and took a picture of a lone mountain goat up on Garden wall - even with max magnification, the lone billy shot still look rather small.
I suppose I could go the route of getting a more expensive lens - but I am wondering if for amateur usage a tele-converter would work.
I use a Canon D-SLR, previously Rebel XT, now an XTi. I spend most of my vacations going to national parks, and I took lots of wildlife pictures. I am normally using a 70-300mm zoom f4-5.6, just an entry level zoom. I am considering buying a tele converter, since sometimes circumstance does not allow getting closer to the wildlife. Last fall I went to Glacier NP and took a picture of a lone mountain goat up on Garden wall - even with max magnification, the lone billy shot still look rather small.
I suppose I could go the route of getting a more expensive lens - but I am wondering if for amateur usage a tele-converter would work.
#2
Well, I`m sure many people here have used TCs before, but since no one answered yet, I`ll offer my views on the matter.
Your question is if a TC would work for amateur usage. The answer is: it depends on what you deem acceptable as minimum image quality. A TC will always degrade image quality (resolution, contrast, abberrations) compared to images taken with the same lens without converter. In the best cases, that degradation is so small that it can be considered negligible. In the worst cases, it makes the images completely useless for any usage.
Think of a TC as something that magnifies the central portion of the image taken with the lens that is attached to it. So, if the lens can give a GREAT image quality, a good TC will produce images that are quite good. With an average (or worse) lens, even a good TC will give poor results.
As rules of thumb, consider this:
- TCs don`t usually work well with zooms, even good ones. There are exceptions, but they are usually due to the TC being especially matched to a specific zoom lens, tipically 80-200 2.8 pro zooms. It is best to use them with fixed long lenses, preferably with big aperture (f2.8, f4, etc.)
- When choosing a generic-brand TC, 7-element TCs usually perform better than 4-element TCs
- TCs usually work best with lenses of the same brand, and some are even specifically matched to certain lenses
If you don`t mind spending a little money in an experience, you can take advantage of the fact that Canon DSLRs measure light with no lens attached, and purchase an inexpensive EOS-M42 adapter, an 135mm f.2.8 or 3.5 manual M42 lens and a M42 TC and do some comparisons. This whole lot can be bought for little money from eBay or whatever and should give you an idea of what you can expect. OR, substitute the 135mm lens with a 200mm or 300mm fixed M42 lens for 20 or 30 bucks more and try the TC with far away subjects. You will have to focus manually and close the iris manually...but you will have to focus manually with your zoom and TC anyway. Most Canon bodies don`t autocus reliably with less than 5.6, and a 5.6 lens on a 1.4x TC will have f8. On a 2X, it will have f11...meaning no AF.
Remember, this is just my opinion and experience. I am sure that users of pro gear from Canon or Nikon will have different views, but I don`t have current gear of that sort, only older stuff.
Hope this helps.
DF
Your question is if a TC would work for amateur usage. The answer is: it depends on what you deem acceptable as minimum image quality. A TC will always degrade image quality (resolution, contrast, abberrations) compared to images taken with the same lens without converter. In the best cases, that degradation is so small that it can be considered negligible. In the worst cases, it makes the images completely useless for any usage.
Think of a TC as something that magnifies the central portion of the image taken with the lens that is attached to it. So, if the lens can give a GREAT image quality, a good TC will produce images that are quite good. With an average (or worse) lens, even a good TC will give poor results.
As rules of thumb, consider this:
- TCs don`t usually work well with zooms, even good ones. There are exceptions, but they are usually due to the TC being especially matched to a specific zoom lens, tipically 80-200 2.8 pro zooms. It is best to use them with fixed long lenses, preferably with big aperture (f2.8, f4, etc.)
- When choosing a generic-brand TC, 7-element TCs usually perform better than 4-element TCs
- TCs usually work best with lenses of the same brand, and some are even specifically matched to certain lenses
If you don`t mind spending a little money in an experience, you can take advantage of the fact that Canon DSLRs measure light with no lens attached, and purchase an inexpensive EOS-M42 adapter, an 135mm f.2.8 or 3.5 manual M42 lens and a M42 TC and do some comparisons. This whole lot can be bought for little money from eBay or whatever and should give you an idea of what you can expect. OR, substitute the 135mm lens with a 200mm or 300mm fixed M42 lens for 20 or 30 bucks more and try the TC with far away subjects. You will have to focus manually and close the iris manually...but you will have to focus manually with your zoom and TC anyway. Most Canon bodies don`t autocus reliably with less than 5.6, and a 5.6 lens on a 1.4x TC will have f8. On a 2X, it will have f11...meaning no AF.
Remember, this is just my opinion and experience. I am sure that users of pro gear from Canon or Nikon will have different views, but I don`t have current gear of that sort, only older stuff.
Hope this helps.
DF
#4
TC's can work OK. As stated before not as ideal as a dedicated fixed focal length long lens but they can work:
1. Buy a Canon 1.4x or 2.0x teleconverter to match the Canon lens. I have used both extensively and they can be very good with the right lens/camera combo.
2. When you receive your TC, do comparasions on the lens with teleconverter on. There can be differences in teleconverters - ask your retailer to exchange if the TC does not perform well
3. Your big problem will be the lens you are using. When you put the TC on you will loose 1 F stop in aperature. You already have a slow lens adding the TC will make it worse - you may also loose automatic focus.
4. Stay away from manual focus lenses for your stated purposes. I shoot a lot of motorsports photography (professional) and you need an automatic focus at the highest shutter speed possible if you are going to capture action shots. This of course is affected by lighting. The lower the avaiable light the harder it will be for you. With your current lens you will only be effective in bright daylight.
5. Try renting a TC from your local professional camera supply store. This may be the way for you to figure out whether your present lens/camera combo will be acceptible for you with a TC
6. I suspect you will end up deciding that a lens with 2.8 F stop minimum will work best with a TC. That said look at the Canon 80 - 200mm 2.8 IS zoom. (My favorite is the 400MM 2.8 IS with vibration reduction paired with a TC. It produces pretty good results and can deliver 400mm or 600 mm (1.4x TC) work - super for active subjects like wildlife - but real pricy!!! - something to aspire to).
1. Buy a Canon 1.4x or 2.0x teleconverter to match the Canon lens. I have used both extensively and they can be very good with the right lens/camera combo.
2. When you receive your TC, do comparasions on the lens with teleconverter on. There can be differences in teleconverters - ask your retailer to exchange if the TC does not perform well
3. Your big problem will be the lens you are using. When you put the TC on you will loose 1 F stop in aperature. You already have a slow lens adding the TC will make it worse - you may also loose automatic focus.
4. Stay away from manual focus lenses for your stated purposes. I shoot a lot of motorsports photography (professional) and you need an automatic focus at the highest shutter speed possible if you are going to capture action shots. This of course is affected by lighting. The lower the avaiable light the harder it will be for you. With your current lens you will only be effective in bright daylight.
5. Try renting a TC from your local professional camera supply store. This may be the way for you to figure out whether your present lens/camera combo will be acceptible for you with a TC
6. I suspect you will end up deciding that a lens with 2.8 F stop minimum will work best with a TC. That said look at the Canon 80 - 200mm 2.8 IS zoom. (My favorite is the 400MM 2.8 IS with vibration reduction paired with a TC. It produces pretty good results and can deliver 400mm or 600 mm (1.4x TC) work - super for active subjects like wildlife - but real pricy!!! - something to aspire to).
#6
I can vouch for the Canon 1.4 TC. I professionally use it with both my 70-200 2.8 IS L as well as my 100-400 4-5.6 IS L. You will lose autofocus on the 100-400 unless you have a 1DMark II or above (read here pro body).
I have a friend who professionally shoots nature with the Canon 2.0 TC and the Canon 300mm IS 2.8 L. He absolutely loves it and I have seen the results. They are amazing.
I have a friend who professionally shoots nature with the Canon 2.0 TC and the Canon 300mm IS 2.8 L. He absolutely loves it and I have seen the results. They are amazing.
#7
Canon tele-converters only fit certain lenses. The do degrade the image so using them on a sharp prime is best. But it's better to get something than nothing. I'm selling my 1.4 II if your interested.
From the Canon site: This lens is only compatible with fixed focal length L-series lenses 135mm and over, as well as the EF 70-200/2.8L, EF 70-200/2.8L IS, EF 70-200/4L, and EF 100-400/4.5-5.6L.
As far as a camera goes, buy what you can afford and will use. Basically they're all the same.
From the Canon site: This lens is only compatible with fixed focal length L-series lenses 135mm and over, as well as the EF 70-200/2.8L, EF 70-200/2.8L IS, EF 70-200/4L, and EF 100-400/4.5-5.6L.
As far as a camera goes, buy what you can afford and will use. Basically they're all the same.
Last edited by 270weatherby; 09-09-2011 at 02:32 AM.
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#8
I've had all sorts of TCs, tested Canon's vs Kenko vs Sigma even. I've had 1.4x and 2.0x teleconverters, and even with some of the best glass, the 2.0x always disappointed me. I have heard it is best matched with the VERY best 300mm - 500mm 2.8 prime lenses. So, I've decided to trust a 1.4x which only slightly degrades the image, and in that size, you will never be able to tell the difference between canon's, kenko's, or the Sigma in side by side comparisons. I actually use a Sigma 1.4x with my Sigma 120-300/2.8...but it also works equally well with all my other canon and 3rd party lenses. I only chose the Sigma, because the 120-300 matches with it better than the others...just slightly.
In your situation, and you really wanted to try a TC, I'd get the kenko DG branded TC, it'll work on everything you have, but you'll find losing that extra stop of light on that 70-300mm, especially at the long end -> resulting in a f6.3, you will not have much luck, if any, of relying on the autofocus system due to the viewfinder being so dark.
However, since you like wildlife, and shoot that subject more than most, I'd either sell the 70-300 and pick up canon's 100-400 like 270weatehrby has above. It gets lots of good reviews. Or, if you find the 400 being used almost entirely, just get a canon 400/5.6, or even the 300/4 and add the TC to your bag. Either way, your pics will be much better than the 70-300 w/o any TC attached. Prime lenses will almost always be sharper than a zoom.
In your situation, and you really wanted to try a TC, I'd get the kenko DG branded TC, it'll work on everything you have, but you'll find losing that extra stop of light on that 70-300mm, especially at the long end -> resulting in a f6.3, you will not have much luck, if any, of relying on the autofocus system due to the viewfinder being so dark.
However, since you like wildlife, and shoot that subject more than most, I'd either sell the 70-300 and pick up canon's 100-400 like 270weatehrby has above. It gets lots of good reviews. Or, if you find the 400 being used almost entirely, just get a canon 400/5.6, or even the 300/4 and add the TC to your bag. Either way, your pics will be much better than the 70-300 w/o any TC attached. Prime lenses will almost always be sharper than a zoom.