Hey guys, thought I would start a new thread here about the two "Free Air" Elemental Design 8" subs I installed to the factory Alpine Amp.

My thoughts on it: Well its not as loud as I thought it would be, lolz...I can barely hear them on, but I know its working just soo slightly, not enough juice. I definitely need to attach another aftermarket amp to it, just like George had suggested early on. Most likely I'm going to get this 300watt Alpine Amp to power both subs up with a "line output converter" to give it some serious juice . See links below....

Alpine Electronics of America, Inc.

Amazon.com: PIE EIS-LOC-T 55W 2-Ch Line Output Converter w/Remote Turn-On: Electronics

**Can someone please guide me on where to tap into the factory amp to attach the line in converter so that I can get that attached to the new Alpine 300watt amp that I will purchase? It will send 150watts each to the two 8" Sub. I'm going to use these Amazon.com: Posi-tap Connector, 16-18 Gauge Wire: Automotive to tap into the signal of the factory amp to the line output converter device. I have the Electrical Diagram, but can't seem to determine where the Input signal is located on the factory Alpine Amp, I only see an output, anyone care to chime in????

Thanks for everyone's help on this, and to George.

Ohh before I forget I removed that metal plate from the back seats when I folded them down. Had to remove that dam thing so that I could lye down on my back to drill those subs in. Is it important that I replace the metal backing plate, or can I just leave it off? Its really a big hassle to put all those screws back each time when you want to drop down the back seats and utilize the full potential of the cargo space .(6 screws on top and 3 on bottom; lets not forget the 4 plastic tabs afterwards).

 

The big metal plate is only found on the STR and it's acting as a rear strut tower brace. If you don't mind the car flexing more when you run it hard then I guess it's OK.

I really have no idea if it would make such a difference so as to introduce a dangerously nasty handling quirk?

Probably not?????

On the other hand it is a PITA to functionality of the car but Jaguar put it in anyway so maybe it really, really helps?????

Let us know.

 

Ok first things first:

The "speaker level" inputs of the Line output converter are the speaker wires going to the subs currently.

Basically what that adapter does is take amplified ouputs and attenuate them back to line level. Then, you plug an RCA cable into the adapter, and into the inputs on the amp. No need for T-taps and crappy connectors there.

Now, you are going to have to run separate, high current FUSED power and ground leads for the new amp, as well as a remote turn on. I don't think the Jag has a remote turn on, so you MAY have to leave it ignition switched, or you can get one of the more complicated line adapters that does signal sensing remote turn on, but I wouldn't, just another way to introduce noise into the equation.

If this doesn't make sense, better just print this out and take it to an audio guy to add the amp. My amps are in the spare tire well (but I build a custom MDF floor for my trunk). that way it looks pretty much stock except for the capacitor and the sub enclosure showing. I still have to finish the last two of the trim panels for my trunk, but I'm waiting till it gets warm enough to comfortably work in the garage.

Take care,

George

 

Have a basic read:

Car Audio Amp Installation

Take care,

George

 

.....Thanks George for the info, I sent you a P'M. I think the aftermarket amp that I will be getting has a remote turn on for it. Also that LIne output converter you recommendd has a remote on for it as well. But I'm confused about leaving the Amp "ignition switched"?
When I was looking for amps on Crutchfields website, the tech guy is the one who suggested that I T-tap the line output converter from the factory Amp's Input signal?? But you suggest not to? Could you explain why?

Thanks.

 

Excellent! Thats why I posted that question on here to find out more in detail whats it for and thank you for explaining it Good thing I haven't driven around going at high speeds on corners yet

 

T-taps ADD a wire to an existing connections without disconnecting it.
You are going to disconnect those wires from the sub, and connect them to the Line input converter.

Here's how it's going to go:

Current lines from factory amp ==> Line input converter ===> RCA cable to amplifier input

Speaker wires from amplifier outputs ===> Subs in deck.


NOW, as far as the remote turn on, you have to understand what this is, it is an Input to a relay coil.

Basically the amplifier uses high current direct to the battery power lines (that are NOT switched, voltage is constantly on). To turn the amp on and off it uses the "remote" wire. Most aftermarket stereos have an ouput for this purpose. The Jag's head unit doesnt. Becuase it uses the d2b fiber network to tell the amp to turn on. The closest you can get is the ignition switched +12v avaliable in the amp harness. This way when the ingition is on, your sub amp is on, when the ignition is off your sub amp is off.

Some of the line output converters have a connection to +12v and ground, and a "signal sensing" circuit that creates a remote turn on output by determining when there is signal on the speaker lines. Personally I wouldn't use that.

I'd get a simple PAC or PIE line output converter that just does speaker level to RCA (with no active electronics to introduce noise).

Make sense?

Take care,

George

 

Very straight forward and to the point, thanks a lot George!
You stated
So basically you suggest connecting "ignition switch wire" directly to the Amp, instead of the Line output Converter?

Is it difficult to find the ignition switch wire to connect the AMp?

Thanks.

 

No no no... You're overcomplicating this. Two separate things.

Let's get down to the basics.

The AMP will have the following connections.
FIRST, the power connections:

+12v - this is the high current power source
GND - high current ground
+12v REMOTE - THIS IS THE REMOTE TURN ON. when there is power on this terminal the amp is on, when there is not the amp is off.

THIS is what you need to connect to the ignition switched +12v. Look at the wiring diagram, it's there at the amp harness.

NOW the SIGNAL connections. (These involve the line output converter).

RCA Audio inputs. - From line output converter as described before.

SPEAKER outputs - Run speaker wires to the subs in the deck from those terminals.

BTW, that Alpine amp you selected is a little bit weaksauce for my taste,then again you are only running 2 8" subs, so I guess it will be ok. Make SURE the crossover on that Alpine sub amp is set to off or flat. The signal is already crossed over.

Take care,

George

 

Ok I understand now Thanks amigo.

So you think 150 watts at 4 ohms x 2 is weak? How many watt amp for 2 channel do you recommend then?

 

Send me the link to the amp again. If it's 150x2 @ 4 RMS, then its not bad. I mean they are 8's don't expect phenomenal bass, but it will be an upgrade to the alpine setup for sure.

Take care,

George

 

Alpine Electronics of America, Inc.

e3.8 subwoofers ideal watt usage chart.
Elemental Designs: Car Stereo, Home Speakers, Electronics

Thanks.

 

OK one problem.

That amp is actually a 4ch amp that briged will make 150x2, not bad. Once again they are 8's so that should be enough power.

The ED Subs you show are dual voice coil, and it looks like you have them wired in series. Are they 4 ohms per coil or 2 ohms per coil?

Take care,

George

 

George great question, I talked to the sales guy to make sure what I have exactly, this is exactly what he told me

"They are 2 ohm per coil, two coils per speaker. Wire each speaker in series between coils and you have a 4 ohm load"
If you look at the pic of the subs, there's a jumper wire in btw is that what he is talking about? If so its already set then, right?

Is there anything I have to beware of when connecting these to the Amp?

 

Yeah in that case it's fine. Should be a decent improvement over stock.

take care,

George

 

Thanks George, I just wanted something better than the factory subs and nothing like windows shaking bass,lolz...but hey man thanks to you I feel that I can tackle this job now.

Take care.

George, Just to verify; If you look at the pic of the subs, there's a jumper wire in btw is that what he is talking about? If so its already set then, right? to the 4 ohm load, thanks.

 

After looking at the speakers and amp you've selected, as long as you bridge the amp you should be fine. For those speakers I'd shoot for 200w, but I don't think you'll have any issues with 150w.

I currently have an Alpine pdx 1.600 I've been wanting to put in my car for awhile now. I used to run the amp in my 300 when I had it. So small, runs very cool, and oddly runs at the same wattage at both 4 and 2 ohms (which confused me). It'll power two Alpine type-S (in an s-type, lol) 12" woofers. Already built a 3D model of the box, just gotta get my table saw back from my friend.

Your alpine amp should've come with a wiring chart for several speaker/amp configurations. If not, I'll scan mine in for you.

 

George I'm still a bit lost into what exactly goes into the +12v remote slot in the aftermarket AMP, what Amp harness you are referring to? I thought I understood it but when I looked at it more closely it didn't make sense to me, sorry about that. Which wiring diagram are you reffering to? The Alpine factory wiring diagram(I see only (P) power slots OR this wiring diagram(see attachment below) which is connected to the head unit from the remote +12v on the AMP? But like you stated my STR doesn't have a factory remote on the head unit.

 

Hey thanks, I ordered the Alpine Amp just today, so hopefully I should be getting the wiring chart. I'm just wiring up my two 8" subs only to the Alpine 300watt amp.

 

Installed the Alpine amp last Wednesday and all I have to say is the Bass sounds bad ***! A huge improvement over the stock 6.5" factory subs. I would highly recommend getting the factory subs swapped out for a pair of 8" free air subs to your liking with a factory amp.

Take Care.