2002 s type broken Lug
#1
2002 s type broken Lug
I broke off the top part of one of the lugs, was using the less then outstanding lug wrench that came with the Jag. the lower half of the lug is still on the stud and holding the tire. How do I get the reamining part of the Lug off ? I dont want to drill the Stud out, was hoping for an quick solve.
thanks
2002jeff
thanks
2002jeff
#6
Wow, Ok, the outer nut cover coming off is very common but the is normally a smaller nut underneath, it happened to 2 of mine.
With it being totally round the only diy thing I can think of is either weld a bent rod of steel on the end of it or get an old socket, smaller than the shaft and hammer it on to remove it.
With it being totally round the only diy thing I can think of is either weld a bent rod of steel on the end of it or get an old socket, smaller than the shaft and hammer it on to remove it.
#7
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#8
Looks like a job for a smaller nut then a mig welder
Fuse the nut to what is left of the old lug nut
Then remove with a socket that fits the nut you have welded on.
This is not a job you want to bugger up as it will get progressively more difficult to remove,
I have some Irwin nut removers that I would be trying on this as a first port of call
Irwin Bolt Grip Nut Remover Set 5 Pieces | Screwfix.com
Fuse the nut to what is left of the old lug nut
Then remove with a socket that fits the nut you have welded on.
This is not a job you want to bugger up as it will get progressively more difficult to remove,
I have some Irwin nut removers that I would be trying on this as a first port of call
Irwin Bolt Grip Nut Remover Set 5 Pieces | Screwfix.com
#10
the part that is still on the stud, has never broke free, the head just broke fee first. its on good. been hitting it with penatrating spray so when i have a solution it might break fee a bit smoother.
if I weld a nut to the threads will I need to replace the stud?
thanks for all the input. it really helps.
2002jeff
if I weld a nut to the threads will I need to replace the stud?
thanks for all the input. it really helps.
2002jeff
#11
I know you are new but when this is all done. Please replace ALL the stock lug nuts with ones that are solid.
What you ran into is very common with the crappy 2-piece stock lug nuts. We have many threads with what to replace them with.
This does not help right now but you were destined to run into this problem which unfortunately is also shared with the Lincoln LS boys.
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.
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What you ran into is very common with the crappy 2-piece stock lug nuts. We have many threads with what to replace them with.
This does not help right now but you were destined to run into this problem which unfortunately is also shared with the Lincoln LS boys.
.
.
.
#14
heading to the parts store now to pick up the Irwin bolt remover kit.
will try to work off the locking wahser that is still on the LUG, this should expose the narow threaded part of the NUT and then have enough room to get the bolt remover in to grab it and get it off.....will try to take some pics and be back with good news......i hope.
2002jeff
will try to work off the locking wahser that is still on the LUG, this should expose the narow threaded part of the NUT and then have enough room to get the bolt remover in to grab it and get it off.....will try to take some pics and be back with good news......i hope.
2002jeff
#17
#18
Any progress? I got to thinking (don't worry, it's just social thinking and I can stop anytime I want...) about the possible scenarios where the lug nut would shear in half as you have experienced:
The most favorable situation - the lug was recently installed but overtorqued. The threads were nice and clean and you live in a "To" state that doesn't use road salt. The nut sheared in half during installation but since this wasn't obvious, it wasn't discovered until you tried to remove it. In this scenario, the remaining piece would unthread if you could somehow apply adequate torque, such as welding another nut to it or spinning it free with a cold chisel.
At the other end of the spectrum - you're hosed if it's been on there a while, was properly torqued, you live in a road salt "From" state, and the nut didn't shear until removal. That means the remaining piece is solidly seized to the stud. Welding a nut to it probably won't help, as the torque required to break it free was already enough to shear the nut.
Looking as the shear pattern, can you determine if it broke on installation or removal? Look for ledges and steps created as it fractured, which help determine which direction is was turning when the fracture occurred. Also look for any signs of corrosion or weathering on the fracture surface. Clean = new (bad, broke on removal), versus dirty = old (good, broke on installation). That might provide a hint of how best to proceed.
The most favorable situation - the lug was recently installed but overtorqued. The threads were nice and clean and you live in a "To" state that doesn't use road salt. The nut sheared in half during installation but since this wasn't obvious, it wasn't discovered until you tried to remove it. In this scenario, the remaining piece would unthread if you could somehow apply adequate torque, such as welding another nut to it or spinning it free with a cold chisel.
At the other end of the spectrum - you're hosed if it's been on there a while, was properly torqued, you live in a road salt "From" state, and the nut didn't shear until removal. That means the remaining piece is solidly seized to the stud. Welding a nut to it probably won't help, as the torque required to break it free was already enough to shear the nut.
Looking as the shear pattern, can you determine if it broke on installation or removal? Look for ledges and steps created as it fractured, which help determine which direction is was turning when the fracture occurred. Also look for any signs of corrosion or weathering on the fracture surface. Clean = new (bad, broke on removal), versus dirty = old (good, broke on installation). That might provide a hint of how best to proceed.
#19
Looking as the shear pattern, can you determine if it broke on installation or removal? Look for ledges and steps created as it fractured, which help determine which direction is was turning when the fracture occurred. Also look for any signs of corrosion or weathering on the fracture surface. Clean = new (bad, broke on removal), versus dirty = old (good, broke on installation). That might provide a hint of how best to proceed.
The pic below indicates two things- very rusty threads meaning that no lubrication was applied prior to the installation of the nut. Bad, bad, bad.
It also shows signs of corrosion in at least three spots on the fracture surface. This means that the nut had been in this condition for an extended period and was in prime condition to shear upon attempted removal. As to what caused the initial cracks, I'm stumped as this surface should be in compression at all times.