2005 s type nightmare
#1
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Hello everyone - I was stuck in Atlanta traffic day before yesterday when my 2005 s type 3.0 went into fail safe mode. I moved off to the side of the road and performed several restarts and finally was able to make it another mile or so before back into fail safe mode. I drove several miles in fail safe mode with many angry drivers sharing their love on a Friday afternoon, but did make it home. When I read the codes I have a P2135 showing in memory. I believe this points me to the throttle body. Has anyone ever experienced this, and do I really need to replace the throttle body? It is a pricey little part. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance
#4
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Thanks for your responses - It was not raining it has been bone dry in Atlanta for the past week or so. I checked the connections for any corrosion or contamination and saw nothing out of the norm. I did find a pretty good deal on a used throttle unit, hopefully I did not waste my money. I will find out when it arrives tomorrow. Again thanks for your input.
Brian
Brian
#5
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Thanks for your responses - It was not raining it has been bone dry in Atlanta for the past week or so. I checked the connections for any corrosion or contamination and saw nothing out of the norm. I did find a pretty good deal on a used throttle unit, hopefully I did not waste my money. I will find out when it arrives tomorrow. Again thanks for your input.
Brian
Brian
So you are going to replace this yourself? If you do it would probably be really helpful to do a step by step walkthrough with pics.
Mine went into limp mode when it was not raining, however, it did rain a few days back, moisture might have just got been caught in there. Make sure that when you do replace the TB that you seal it up excessively. You never know if this new throttle body will have the same problem, and while it is out will be much easier to make sure that thing is absolutely water tight. Good luck
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???? Please show me in ids a programming for throttle body
its plug n play. The only thing you will sometines get is a higher than normal idle depending on how dirty your old throttle body was/is. The ecu will drive the iacs(idle air control) open to the learned position of the old tb. This will self learn again with time, or you can do a hard battery reset to reset the ecu to defaults and make it learn everything again......
its plug n play. The only thing you will sometines get is a higher than normal idle depending on how dirty your old throttle body was/is. The ecu will drive the iacs(idle air control) open to the learned position of the old tb. This will self learn again with time, or you can do a hard battery reset to reset the ecu to defaults and make it learn everything again......
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Not that i know everything, i learn stuff here to you know, just ive seen and replaced many a tb in 13 years and never seen anything on reseting something with a special jaguar only tool....ids,wds...now back in the days of pdu if anyone was around then before the internet, you had to do a engine setup with pdu for 02 sensor replacement, kickdown, and target idle. Alot of stuff is dealer required, but i will pass along tidbits when able to help a diyer....thats just not 1. I would replace the tb and be done. The reason there are issues(codes) is because there are redundant system sensors like throttle position and pedal travel...if there is a disagreement in readings between them you will get retricted perf/engine failsafe....just think toyota ![Smile](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
and it doesnt have to be duplicatable, in these areas it is better to error to the side of caution. When I get an extended warranty inspector that wants to clear the code annd drive to see if it returns...I just ask them to sign a release stating that theyre declining to replace a part that has shown to have a fault at 1 time....with Toyota's issues right now, that stops that merry go round real quick
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and it doesnt have to be duplicatable, in these areas it is better to error to the side of caution. When I get an extended warranty inspector that wants to clear the code annd drive to see if it returns...I just ask them to sign a release stating that theyre declining to replace a part that has shown to have a fault at 1 time....with Toyota's issues right now, that stops that merry go round real quick
#10
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Thanks everyone for your input's. I received the new/used throttle body today and got it installed. I took your advice and sealed the hell out of it. If moisture gets into this thing I don't deserve to drive anymore. I have only gone on a short test drive and i'm throwing no codes. It seems to have a little more pep on the take off, that might be my imagination because i've been driving my father-in-laws 4cyl pickup for the past couple of days. It is supposed to be close to 90 degrees here in atlanta today, i think that i will wait till it peaks and go out for another test drive. I have been experiencing another issue and don't know if they are related yet. When I am cruising below 40mph i will get an occasional loss of a couple of hundred rpms and a sound like i have a cylinder not detonating..a real hollow ping. It hasn't issued any misfire codes or anything yet...any ideas? Thanks again for all of your inputs.
Brian
Brian
#12
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Thanks everyone for your input's. I received the new/used throttle body today and got it installed. I took your advice and sealed the hell out of it. If moisture gets into this thing I don't deserve to drive anymore. I have only gone on a short test drive and i'm throwing no codes. It seems to have a little more pep on the take off, that might be my imagination because i've been driving my father-in-laws 4cyl pickup for the past couple of days. It is supposed to be close to 90 degrees here in atlanta today, i think that i will wait till it peaks and go out for another test drive. I have been experiencing another issue and don't know if they are related yet. When I am cruising below 40mph i will get an occasional loss of a couple of hundred rpms and a sound like i have a cylinder not detonating..a real hollow ping. It hasn't issued any misfire codes or anything yet...any ideas? Thanks again for all of your inputs.
Brian
Brian
Good stuff, no idea on the loss of RPMS, other than torque converter, but from what you describe it doesnt sound like that.
What did you use to seal the throttle body? Did you get all the connections and "snap on" parts good?
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you guys have a lot of good info....so i bought a 2000 s type 4.0 couple weeks back and sometimes there is a weird hesitation type sound coming around 2000 rpm when i step on it quick...if i let go and step again its fine. its on failsafe mode and dsc sytem failure...read the code...it said throttle body...so i got a used one from ebay ...changed it up and its revving at 1500+ constantly..its like having cruise control constantly...the good thing is i think that hesitation thing is gone but im not 100% cause i cant rev from scratch since its at 1500+ at all times...also...in Park...when i tap it it revs to 3000rpm for a few seconds...driving around its fine but im riding on breaks cause the trottle is constantly open so its like accelerating and breaking in the same time....dsc failure is still there?
any ideas guys? im not sure if this throttle body is worse than mine or i didnt do something right
any ideas guys? im not sure if this throttle body is worse than mine or i didnt do something right
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take off the air intake and see if there carbon buildup and if clean does the throttle blade seat fully or has it sat somewhere and gotten corrosion on the shaft causing it to stick alittle. If it is clean, and your old one was very dirty the ecu is opening the idle air bypass to what it did with your old 1, the new 1 doesnt need to be opened as far so you end up with a high idle. disconnect the battery after a hard reboot(touch both disconnected cables together to discharge the capacitors on the car) this resets ecu's to their factory defaults
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