Auto gearbox problems
#1
Auto gearbox problems
Hi All,
As I have put in my new member section, my Father in Law bought a 2003 2.5l S Type about a month ago and two weeks later I have now got a 2003 3.0l S Type, as I loved his car so much. I will come onto my Father in Laws problems at a later date. My car has been well looked after and has full service history and is a dream to drive. The one problem I have is with the auto gearbox. I have been reading a lot of posts about the problems with the gearbox, but can't quite find anything similar to mine. The gearbox doesn't have the lurch and goes though all gears 1 to 4 smoothly until you get to go into 5 and 6. the revs build up to about 2000 and you then see the rev counter drop as it goes in to gear, if you try and accelerate, even lightly the rev counter fluctuates about 100 rev each side and sometimes you can hear a sort pulsating rubbing noise from underneath.
As the revs then build up to 2000 again it will go smoothly into 6th and then do the same again. If you take it for a run on the motorway the fluctuation stops and it drives fine, also as you slow down it is very smooth in all gear as it changes down. I have no gearbox warning lights. Does this sound like an expensive problem or shall I just grin and bare it. I can live with it but it is a bit annoying when you have people in the car.
Thank you for any help
As I have put in my new member section, my Father in Law bought a 2003 2.5l S Type about a month ago and two weeks later I have now got a 2003 3.0l S Type, as I loved his car so much. I will come onto my Father in Laws problems at a later date. My car has been well looked after and has full service history and is a dream to drive. The one problem I have is with the auto gearbox. I have been reading a lot of posts about the problems with the gearbox, but can't quite find anything similar to mine. The gearbox doesn't have the lurch and goes though all gears 1 to 4 smoothly until you get to go into 5 and 6. the revs build up to about 2000 and you then see the rev counter drop as it goes in to gear, if you try and accelerate, even lightly the rev counter fluctuates about 100 rev each side and sometimes you can hear a sort pulsating rubbing noise from underneath.
As the revs then build up to 2000 again it will go smoothly into 6th and then do the same again. If you take it for a run on the motorway the fluctuation stops and it drives fine, also as you slow down it is very smooth in all gear as it changes down. I have no gearbox warning lights. Does this sound like an expensive problem or shall I just grin and bare it. I can live with it but it is a bit annoying when you have people in the car.
Thank you for any help
#2
You are new, so welcome to the real world.
My best guess, and knowing very little of the 6 speed units, is to change the trans fluid and filter (which is the pan in this case).
The distance travelled means little in my opinion, it is 11 years old, and even with "dealer" service, the trans fluid is "sealed for life", HAHA, and they WILL NOT touch it.
Second guess, is an electrical gremlin, which can "mostly" be sorted by disconnected the battery, go have a drink (cup of tea for the colonies), then reconnect, and observe any changes.
My best guess, and knowing very little of the 6 speed units, is to change the trans fluid and filter (which is the pan in this case).
The distance travelled means little in my opinion, it is 11 years old, and even with "dealer" service, the trans fluid is "sealed for life", HAHA, and they WILL NOT touch it.
Second guess, is an electrical gremlin, which can "mostly" be sorted by disconnected the battery, go have a drink (cup of tea for the colonies), then reconnect, and observe any changes.
#3
As user Grant Francis said change the trans fluid/filter...I had a few issues with my 05 S-Type...RPM's would fluctuate randomly...would get a gearbox fault code just by switching gear to reverse, hard shifts...once I changed the trans fluid & filter(pan) on my s-type all that went away...I can't guarantee it'll fix your issue but possibly could....I'd start with what Grant said about the battery first !
Good luck
Good luck
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#9
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It's P0741 the TSB was S307-03 you can find it on Gus's site.
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
#10
#11
Not nessaceraly, have a look at the UK forum, the have been a few needing replacing with same symptoms as you and no codes (they tried fluid and filter change first) it only seemed to be noticed in 5th or 6th at first but gets worse over time.
I'm guessing here but it might not throw codes as it's not completely failed only starting to??
It might not be the TC at all, I really hope it's not.
I'm guessing here but it might not throw codes as it's not completely failed only starting to??
It might not be the TC at all, I really hope it's not.
#12
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My car does the same thing as yours- problem disappears as the gearbox reaches normal operating temp. Jag issued TSB S307-14 on the subject in 2003
"Summary
S307-14: This Technical Bulletin has been issued to address a customer concern of a surge in
excess of 150rpm during engine warm up, at a temperature of 30°C to 50°C and at a vehicle speed
in the region of 40mph (64.3kph) to 60mph (96.5kph)"
Sound about right?
"Action
Should a customer express a concern, the Transmission Control Module (TCM) should be reconfigured
using the Worldwide Diagnostic System (WDS) with software release JTP 759/27 or later."
The entire bulletin can be downloaded from the stickies at the top I believe.
#14
Gearbox Problem
Hi I can't give advice but I did have the same problem and tried everything before I went to an Auto Gearbox specialist. I wish I had gone there first and saved a fortune - I replaced EGR valves (2) - had the oil tested (no problem) diagnostic tests - the lot! The Jag dealer had recommended a replacement gear box the specialist repaired it for half the money!
#17
OK - background first - I am not a mechanic but I tinker with old motorbikes and used to do all my own servicing (40 years ago - cars were very different then!). I now leave all my servicing and repairs to an independent jag specialist (the jag Centre - Norwich). Down to business - I had both EGR's replaced (I am assured that my exhaust has one on each side). The valve and de-port valve kit for each side was approx. £160 plus VAT. labour to fit both was approx. £90 and the investigation of the fault was £50. - the total was approx. £360. The right hand side was done as part of a service with a 10% reduction on costs but the prices are similar.
There were faults with both these valves logged as fault code P140A-00 (- not sure what that means). When this work did not clear the problem (£720 worth!) the garage recommended replace the torque convertor.
If your car shudders under moderate acceleration and makes a "mild growling" noise at times that seems to come from under the front passenger seat - go to an auto gear box specialist. My box has a new torque convertor, beefed up bushes? and an air cooler for the coolant and works perfectly (but I don't tow a caravan before the "experts" jump on me!)
Hope this helps
Dave
There were faults with both these valves logged as fault code P140A-00 (- not sure what that means). When this work did not clear the problem (£720 worth!) the garage recommended replace the torque convertor.
If your car shudders under moderate acceleration and makes a "mild growling" noise at times that seems to come from under the front passenger seat - go to an auto gear box specialist. My box has a new torque convertor, beefed up bushes? and an air cooler for the coolant and works perfectly (but I don't tow a caravan before the "experts" jump on me!)
Hope this helps
Dave
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If your car shudders under moderate acceleration and makes a "mild growling" noise at times that seems to come from under the front passenger seat - go to an auto gear box specialist. My box has a new torque convertor, beefed up bushes? and an air cooler for the coolant and works perfectly (but I don't tow a caravan before the "experts" jump on me!)
Hope this helps
Dave
Hope this helps
Dave
The original software occasionally allowed the T/C to engage before the transmission was fully warmed up. This resulted in a bit of engine RPM hunting as seen on the tachometer. The problem disappears once normal operating temperatures are achieved. It seems that this is what the OP is describing. The revised software delays engagement of the T/C with a cold transmission.
#20
All good advice and I would add to check fluid level first then apply TCM update and then change the fluid and filter.
It looks like even the diesel has only one EGR valve. I can't think why you would need more than one anyway? All it does is feed exhaust back into the intake so one valve will do that.
I have never seen a car with two EGR valves? Has anybody else?
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It looks like even the diesel has only one EGR valve. I can't think why you would need more than one anyway? All it does is feed exhaust back into the intake so one valve will do that.
I have never seen a car with two EGR valves? Has anybody else?
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