Battery Drain
#41
#42
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
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#43
Switch a more likely candidate
The ignition switch failing would make sense to me in two points - one it is a where and tear part, and two it in my case seams to have gotten progressively worse (the battery draw down).
The battery has been load tested and verified ok.
I didn't get into it last night though, ans saw the suggestion of the switch failure possibilty this morning.
SOMETIMES, a part change ahead of PROPER diagnosis can be helpful - If it is not too hard to change, inexpensive part and likely culprit - As I kind of see here - I may just change the switch on speculation.
Thanks all
(also this might tie in well with the mentions of headlights flashing as some have reported).
PR
The battery has been load tested and verified ok.
I didn't get into it last night though, ans saw the suggestion of the switch failure possibilty this morning.
SOMETIMES, a part change ahead of PROPER diagnosis can be helpful - If it is not too hard to change, inexpensive part and likely culprit - As I kind of see here - I may just change the switch on speculation.
Thanks all
(also this might tie in well with the mentions of headlights flashing as some have reported).
PR
#44
Ammeter in line now, timer set
OK, I just put my meter in line now and set my iphone timer for 45 min.
The inrush was about 9.5 amps, then settled down around 4, and when I closed the trunk it is sitting steady now at about 2.75 amps.
There is a guy locally parting a 2000 S type, I may go grab his ignition switch, but I have to figure out how it comes out 1st. My JTIS system is not available as my windows 7 machine has never run it, and my Tablet XP doesn't have the files, they are at work......
Can't do much now until the timer goes....
Pete
The inrush was about 9.5 amps, then settled down around 4, and when I closed the trunk it is sitting steady now at about 2.75 amps.
There is a guy locally parting a 2000 S type, I may go grab his ignition switch, but I have to figure out how it comes out 1st. My JTIS system is not available as my windows 7 machine has never run it, and my Tablet XP doesn't have the files, they are at work......
Can't do much now until the timer goes....
Pete
#46
#47
#48
I agree that 70mA is not much
I agree that 70mA is not that much.
I would expect that if the RECM or GECM were keeping the car 'ON' the current would continue to sit at that 2.75 amps thus draining the battery.
I even suspect that the ignition switch would cause more like a couple of amps.
I think I may look around, and or pull fuses for non critical items like sun visor lights, or am wondering as a type of the Factory cell phone.
hmmmmm
BTW, I had a visitor with an Iphone 4 and confirmed the interference is coming from the upper console, and found posts discussing the occupancy sensors and iphones noise cancellation being the cause.
PR
I would expect that if the RECM or GECM were keeping the car 'ON' the current would continue to sit at that 2.75 amps thus draining the battery.
I even suspect that the ignition switch would cause more like a couple of amps.
I think I may look around, and or pull fuses for non critical items like sun visor lights, or am wondering as a type of the Factory cell phone.
hmmmmm
BTW, I had a visitor with an Iphone 4 and confirmed the interference is coming from the upper console, and found posts discussing the occupancy sensors and iphones noise cancellation being the cause.
PR
#49
still occurring
Well, from Friday night to Monday am - dead battery.
I guess I really am going to have to get into this.
For the time being I put a recording voltmeter on the battery so I can watch what is happening - granted not current, but should give me some indication of things.
The alternative is that I could also try to find somewhere to easily clip it onto the main circuit which the 4 relays in the trunk switch so I can see if that is staying at 12v constant.
I am wondering if the 70mA causes a slow decline then at some point of lowered voltage, other systems turn on and cascade the problem and increase the current. We'll see - may not report until after next weekend, as driving it daily seams to give it enough recovery to carry overnight.
Pete
I guess I really am going to have to get into this.
For the time being I put a recording voltmeter on the battery so I can watch what is happening - granted not current, but should give me some indication of things.
The alternative is that I could also try to find somewhere to easily clip it onto the main circuit which the 4 relays in the trunk switch so I can see if that is staying at 12v constant.
I am wondering if the 70mA causes a slow decline then at some point of lowered voltage, other systems turn on and cascade the problem and increase the current. We'll see - may not report until after next weekend, as driving it daily seams to give it enough recovery to carry overnight.
Pete
#50
Well, from Friday night to Monday am - dead battery.
I guess I really am going to have to get into this.
For the time being I put a recording voltmeter on the battery so I can watch what is happening - granted not current, but should give me some indication of things.
The alternative is that I could also try to find somewhere to easily clip it onto the main circuit which the 4 relays in the trunk switch so I can see if that is staying at 12v constant.
I am wondering if the 70mA causes a slow decline then at some point of lowered voltage, other systems turn on and cascade the problem and increase the current. We'll see - may not report until after next weekend, as driving it daily seams to give it enough recovery to carry overnight.
Pete
I guess I really am going to have to get into this.
For the time being I put a recording voltmeter on the battery so I can watch what is happening - granted not current, but should give me some indication of things.
The alternative is that I could also try to find somewhere to easily clip it onto the main circuit which the 4 relays in the trunk switch so I can see if that is staying at 12v constant.
I am wondering if the 70mA causes a slow decline then at some point of lowered voltage, other systems turn on and cascade the problem and increase the current. We'll see - may not report until after next weekend, as driving it daily seams to give it enough recovery to carry overnight.
Pete
Brutal has always been on target with his comments and suggestions and he suggested that the ignition has been a problem with the S-type. Have you looked into this?
#51
Ignition
I only went as far as looking up how to remove the switch ni the diagrams.
I agree, Brutal is a good source of info, AND that such a part is definitely a wear and tear item.
What might really be telling is if I clipped my recording voltmeter on a circuit which would be live if the switch were in this failed mode - I will have to look at the schematics and try to find one which is also easy to clip onto.
Pete
I agree, Brutal is a good source of info, AND that such a part is definitely a wear and tear item.
What might really be telling is if I clipped my recording voltmeter on a circuit which would be live if the switch were in this failed mode - I will have to look at the schematics and try to find one which is also easy to clip onto.
Pete
#52
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usmantariq (06-04-2011)
#53
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
Posts: 7,254
Received 2,194 Likes
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well, from friday night to monday am - dead battery.
I guess i really am going to have to get into this.
For the time being i put a recording voltmeter on the battery so i can watch what is happening - granted not current, but should give me some indication of things.
The alternative is that i could also try to find somewhere to easily clip it onto the main circuit which the 4 relays in the trunk switch so i can see if that is staying at 12v constant.
I am wondering if the 70ma causes a slow decline then at some point of lowered voltage, other systems turn on and cascade the problem and increase the current. We'll see - may not report until after next weekend, as driving it daily seams to give it enough recovery to carry overnight.
Pete
I guess i really am going to have to get into this.
For the time being i put a recording voltmeter on the battery so i can watch what is happening - granted not current, but should give me some indication of things.
The alternative is that i could also try to find somewhere to easily clip it onto the main circuit which the 4 relays in the trunk switch so i can see if that is staying at 12v constant.
I am wondering if the 70ma causes a slow decline then at some point of lowered voltage, other systems turn on and cascade the problem and increase the current. We'll see - may not report until after next weekend, as driving it daily seams to give it enough recovery to carry overnight.
Pete
Also through repetition we know the issues over times with cars. This is where we blow indies out of the water. They charge less but have to diag there way to the problem that we already know that is an issue on that car and has been for years. We charge more, but get the diag right and dont have to charge much if any time to get there. Just the rnr time. Plus we work closely together to share info between 14 techs. I dont know of a indi shops that specialises in jags that has more than 2 or 3 techs if that.
#54
Thanks
Brutal, Thanks - I'm going to pick up a switch this afternoon and just change it.
I agree, proper diagnosis is best, HOWEVER by a combination of facts that it is a moving part /wear and tear, experience shows common failure, not too expensive, and not too difficult to change all adds up to simply changing it on speculation is fine in this case.
Pete
I agree, proper diagnosis is best, HOWEVER by a combination of facts that it is a moving part /wear and tear, experience shows common failure, not too expensive, and not too difficult to change all adds up to simply changing it on speculation is fine in this case.
Pete
#55
Brutal, Thanks - I'm going to pick up a switch this afternoon and just change it.
I agree, proper diagnosis is best, HOWEVER by a combination of facts that it is a moving part /wear and tear, experience shows common failure, not too expensive, and not too difficult to change all adds up to simply changing it on speculation is fine in this case.
Pete
I agree, proper diagnosis is best, HOWEVER by a combination of facts that it is a moving part /wear and tear, experience shows common failure, not too expensive, and not too difficult to change all adds up to simply changing it on speculation is fine in this case.
Pete
Could you send me the old switch? I want to see the configuration and see if i can see the problem and document it.
#56
#57
#58
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#60