Hey guys,

So now that the weather has gotten a bit fairer I decided to put my summer wheels / tires back on the car.

I got 3 on with no hitches, then I went to remove the driver's rear wheel.

Had a 33" breaker bar with a 1/2" Drive impact socket (by hand)

Went to remove the 1st lug nut, and I didn't even feel it giving way, then snap...

Surprisingly, It didn't take the steel head off but rather snapped the actual nut.

I've attached a picture of the remains of the lugnut.

How do I get this off?

Thanks,

George

 

i could tell you but then.....Ide have to kill you
the only way to get it off without damaging the wheel is to take off the brake, wheel, and hub assembly.(this is what I do) Drill it out from the back and then knock it out. try the other 4 so you know if you have to drill more. next time apply alittle lube

 

Yeah so I tried to get the others on that wheel broken free, and two of the lug nuts came apart (the steel cover came off)... I hate the pos lugs that this car uses. For some reason some gorilla or an impact gun wielding gorilla put the lugs on this rear wheel. The rest came of normally. Go figure. At least I didn't get a flat and it didn't leave me stranded.

I'm taking it to my buddy's shop Monday.

What do you think is more economical. New studs in the existing hub? Or just ordering a hub with the studs already pressed in? Can we use a Lincoln LS part here? I know the bolt pattern and studs are the same. Only reason I ask is parts availability. I need the car and don't want it sitting for an extended period of time waiting for a part.

Thanks,

George

 

George, My volvo lock 'bolts' had one chewed up, my mechanic used a cutting torch, then we had the wheel refinished. (the volvo were bolts, not studs and nuts).

Same old samd old, just can't trust anyone to do anything right! It is only of the last few years that the guys i use know how **** I am about over tightened lug nuts that I can count on them, however if they hire a new guy.... I often double check myself - must we always feel this way!!!

Sorry, what a nice warmish day to take on a simple task and have it turn into an all day adventure. Hope you can get it resolved quickley.

Peter

 

the problem is getting studs seperatly, I always knock out studs when I replace hubs to have them. Jaguar really does not supply and trying to get them when someone strips one, is almost impossible

 

The stype guys have a huge thread going about replacing lug nuts on those 'rattling' 2-piece buggers. May want to look over there, they've got sources provided if you decide to swap out the entire perimeter.

Good luck sorry about that.

 

I actually have different solid chrome lug nuts I use with my 19" summer wheels, they are HP design and have a conical seat.

I used the stock lugs with the stock wheels, cause of the washer. Never had a problem until now.

I saw the lug nut thread but didn't think about it Never had a problem until now, and it was only on ONE wheel. Everything else came on fine, looks like superman himself torqued this one wheel on.

Now Brutal, speaking of replacement wheel studs, No one lists anything for the Jaguar.

However I was able to find two different sources for the Lincoln LS.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...373891k1037595

RAYBESTOS Part # 28954B And WAGNER Part # BD125993

I have attached a picture of the LS Wheel studs. Do those look right to you?

The LS uses the same exact 2 piece stainless capped Lug Nut The Jaguar uses. And people bolt on Jag wheels to LS's all the time.

Lincoln LS OEM style 12mm x 1.50 threads stainless capped lug nuts. These lug nuts fit Lincoln LS factory 2000-2003 wheesl. 19mm hex and 38mm in length. Seat 18.4 x Angle 7.16mm.

I'm thinking that the entire rear hub may be the same between the LS and the S-Type but that is a riskier assumption.

 

Any chance you could drill a shallow hole in the remains of the lug nut off to the side. Soak it down with PV Blaster, and then tap and unscrew it with a pin punch and hammer.

Regards:
Oldengineer

 

I'm actually a younger engineer.

I drilled two, one on each side of the nut. I've been soaking it.

This is what I tried. I put two 3/8" bolts in the holes, one on each side of the lugnut. then i put a breaker bar between the two bolts, and locked the heads of the bolts together with vice grips. This was inspired by looking at my ford rear brake caliper tool in my toolbox that has the two pins that go into the piston of the caliper to screw it back. Then held the vice grip and applied pressure from the breaker bar. I have two 3/8" bolts that look like pretzels, and a lugnut that has yet to flinch...

You think the center punch / hammer method might work? Guess it can't hurt right?

George

 

IF those LS studs don't work, you think you'd be willing to sell some of your "stash"?

George

 

you would be better off to drill out the stud starting with small then larger bits. But do not break a bit in the stud or youre done with that route. The LS studs should work too. Is it a rear wheel? cause of so the hub /brake removal wont work on the rear. But you can rotate the wheel to get at the back of the stud to use a die grinder with a long shank to cut the base of the stud away and drive out from the back with a punch...you would not believe how much time is spent in the shop when lugs seize and snap to get them out.

 

Brutal - you said to lube them but jag say not to. So far I've done as jag say but this is the first car where I've not used copper grease on the stud threads. Should I just go back to what I've always done?

 

the issue is with lube is torque specs change the amount of torque you use to reach spec is DRY CLEAN thread, when lubed, you will overtighten if you bring up to factory recommended spec. I have seen sevenral wheels come off over the years, issue is not the torque applied to tighten, the problem is they were NEVER tightened. ON rusty lugs and hubs I do lube them with light spray oil to control rusting as needed. The hub can rust to the poin that it locks the wheel onto the hub and you will never get it off on the side of the road if you have a flat. Many times we have to use a very large dead blow hammer, and or long pry bar to push the wheel off the rusted hub. so I say lube them , and remember it just makes easier to tighten and therefore over tighten, so adjust accordingly

 

jag do say to lube the hub - well, they say it now (they issued a TSB due to corrosion exactly as you say lol)

yeah... wet n dry torques... wish jag would just quote a wet one n tell you to lube the stud

 

It is a rear wheel...

I'm done trying it's going to the shop tomorrow. One thing I do have a question about is the electronic parking brake. How would I disengage that so the car will let the wheel rotate? I'm thinking ignition on car in neutral, will that work?

I will tell you this, I am never using another Jaguar lugnut on this car ever again. I will go the solid replacement route, so even if it does seize, worse case scenario you can just use an impact to snap the stud (and get the wheel off) and then replace the stud.

As far as the use of anti-seize on lugs. I found an interesting discussion here:

http://www.engineersedge.com/wwwboard/posts/13070.html

Basically, everyone is saying that it does increase axial loads, but as long as you are careful with the torque wrench (1/4 turn after it stops spinning) Then you will be fine. It does not lead to the nut backing off the thread over time. One point to note is that they stress to be careful not to get any on the wheel lug seat or the seat of the lugnut, just the threads.

George

 

Jaguar lists the part # as XR825192 for the hub wheel stud. I always keep a few for XJ6/XJ-S, X300, X200 etc. Some are splined and some were threaded/staked.

bob gauff

 

On mine, to disengage the EPB: ignition on, foot on brake, gear lever in P or N (your choice), press EPB switch down and hold down, ignition off and remove key. Finally, you can let go the EPB switch but not before you have the key out of the ignition.

If in N - chock the wheels or at least make sure the car's level and after moving the car then either back to P or chock the wheels!!

Thanks for that link - will read.

 

Will do... The car's going to be on a lift anyways, I just want to get the brake off so I can have the ability to rotate the rear wheels, to gain access to the back of the wheel stud that needs to be replaced.

George

 

Geroge after reading your horror story, I decided to check mine. All came losse with my 4 way wrench except 3 on one of the rears. I thought - oh no! My electric impact gun got them off.

What I did notice is that some of the other nuts were damaged such that the socket really wasn't going on very far, this could contribute to what happened to you.

I will be replacing any of these which don't fit the socket nicely, using anti sieze and proper feel when I put the wheels back on.

Pete

 

If you drill, skip some sizes of bits as you use larger ones. Using the next up means it may catch and break off - the very thing you really really do not want to happen.

That said, there are very hard bits you can buy, but plan never to need them.