New S-Type 3.0 - trying to iron out some issues!
#1
New S-Type 3.0 - trying to iron out some issues!
Hello folks,
This thread is a semi-continuation of my U.S. spec thread ( https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...options-67656/ ), since I finally bought an actual car. My car is a MJ2006 3.0 litre S-Type which was initially delivered to the U.S. and has since been exported and converted to work in Europe. Current mileage is 45000 km. The car has a bunch of smaller issues I'd like to sort out. I bought it since the basis seems to be in very good condition, also it's my third British car and I never expect these to be absolutely perfect :-) . For that I would have bought a Japanese car.
The issue list:
- amber motor symbol on (after 1000km drive) (SOLVED)
I hope to get some OBD readings soon. The car, motor, drivetrain behave perfectly though. No other error lamp or error message shown in the instrument cluster.
- Xenons way too low (SOLVED)
Xenons look unrepaired/untouched, light is very firm when driving but too low. No auto-leveling at startup. I saw the many threads about the Xenons, will check if these are really broken. That will be important for national MOT.
- Front driver window keeps going down (SOLVED - new door rubber)
When in dry weather condition the window motor seems to struggle to close the window. It closes shortly and goes down again, 75% of the way. Because of the 75% I figured it can't be the anti-jam function, but can't be sure. Stays up after 10-20 attempts. Lubrication needed I guess?
- remote key fob not working
The fob is in very good condition and I added a new battery. Yet no button works. I read the numbers on the fob, it seems to be a U.S. frequency fob. Maybe some control unit was switched for the "europefication" of the car and that expects E.U. frequencies from a key fob? Only have one key, so will have to order a spare anyway...
- muted "bubbling" sound between screen and center console
Don't know how to describe the sound, but some muted "thumping". Maybe something with climate/heating? No problems though, heating and climate work perfectly.
- electric pedals not working
When I set and use the switch I hear only a relay clicking. Least concern for now.
- front map reading lights buttons "worn" (?) (SOLVED)
Bulbs are okay, but buttons work only every fifth or so attempt. Least concern for now.
Thanks for input folks! I do love the car, it just needs to become better. :-)
Regards
FritzTheJag
This thread is a semi-continuation of my U.S. spec thread ( https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...options-67656/ ), since I finally bought an actual car. My car is a MJ2006 3.0 litre S-Type which was initially delivered to the U.S. and has since been exported and converted to work in Europe. Current mileage is 45000 km. The car has a bunch of smaller issues I'd like to sort out. I bought it since the basis seems to be in very good condition, also it's my third British car and I never expect these to be absolutely perfect :-) . For that I would have bought a Japanese car.
The issue list:
- amber motor symbol on (after 1000km drive) (SOLVED)
I hope to get some OBD readings soon. The car, motor, drivetrain behave perfectly though. No other error lamp or error message shown in the instrument cluster.
- Xenons way too low (SOLVED)
Xenons look unrepaired/untouched, light is very firm when driving but too low. No auto-leveling at startup. I saw the many threads about the Xenons, will check if these are really broken. That will be important for national MOT.
- Front driver window keeps going down (SOLVED - new door rubber)
When in dry weather condition the window motor seems to struggle to close the window. It closes shortly and goes down again, 75% of the way. Because of the 75% I figured it can't be the anti-jam function, but can't be sure. Stays up after 10-20 attempts. Lubrication needed I guess?
- remote key fob not working
The fob is in very good condition and I added a new battery. Yet no button works. I read the numbers on the fob, it seems to be a U.S. frequency fob. Maybe some control unit was switched for the "europefication" of the car and that expects E.U. frequencies from a key fob? Only have one key, so will have to order a spare anyway...
- muted "bubbling" sound between screen and center console
Don't know how to describe the sound, but some muted "thumping". Maybe something with climate/heating? No problems though, heating and climate work perfectly.
- electric pedals not working
When I set and use the switch I hear only a relay clicking. Least concern for now.
- front map reading lights buttons "worn" (?) (SOLVED)
Bulbs are okay, but buttons work only every fifth or so attempt. Least concern for now.
Thanks for input folks! I do love the car, it just needs to become better. :-)
Regards
FritzTheJag
Last edited by FritzTheJag; 01-29-2014 at 02:06 PM. Reason: one fault not from my car ;-)
#2
For OBD the cheap USB elm327 is much better than you'd expect for the price.
All ordinary OBD tools will only scan one module (the PCM).
For the other modules you need a jag-specific tool such as AutoEnginuity. Quite expensive but it would be quite useful for you as it would let you see what is actually in your car
You don't want to ignore the MIL because you could be doing real - possibly expensive - damage to something (such as the cats).
I hope someone recalls or can find whether the headlamps should move at start up even if they are broken in the typical way. If they should move and yours don't then I think you'd be doing a less common kind of troubleshooting
BTW, in case you don't have them you can follow the forum sticky to download handbooks, including for phone, sat nav, etc, USA ones even!
Oh, and grab JTIS. Full of useful data.
All ordinary OBD tools will only scan one module (the PCM).
For the other modules you need a jag-specific tool such as AutoEnginuity. Quite expensive but it would be quite useful for you as it would let you see what is actually in your car
You don't want to ignore the MIL because you could be doing real - possibly expensive - damage to something (such as the cats).
I hope someone recalls or can find whether the headlamps should move at start up even if they are broken in the typical way. If they should move and yours don't then I think you'd be doing a less common kind of troubleshooting
BTW, in case you don't have them you can follow the forum sticky to download handbooks, including for phone, sat nav, etc, USA ones even!
Oh, and grab JTIS. Full of useful data.
Last edited by JagV8; 03-02-2012 at 03:01 PM.
#3
For OBD the cheap USB elm327 is much better than you'd expect for the price.
All ordinary OBD tools will only scan one module (the PCM).
For the other modules you need a jag-specific tool such as AutoEnginuity. Quite expensive but it would be quite useful for you as it would let you see what is actually in your car
All ordinary OBD tools will only scan one module (the PCM).
For the other modules you need a jag-specific tool such as AutoEnginuity. Quite expensive but it would be quite useful for you as it would let you see what is actually in your car
But to be honest, these Elms look like the cheapest Chinese hackjobs around. As a compromise of AutoEnginuity products what about a refurbished AutoEnginuity OBD2 Windows Scan Tool (USB) + Software v10 + SpeedTracer v5 for 108 Dollars?
I guess later on I can buy the specific Jag software on top for another 220 Dollars?
Regards
Fritz
#4
#5
Major bummer though: The auto-leveling sensors have never been connected (if they are even there, how to check for sure?), the plug in the left wheel-arch has been empty for years. Also it seems no washers have been fitted...
Now I have to think of something...
Regards
Fritz
#6
#7
Does anybody know if other Jaguars (XJ, X-Type...) have carry-over-parts rergarding the Xenon periphery? Specific S-Type parts (sensors...) seem to be few and far between.
Regards
FritzTheJag
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#8
Which Elm327 would you suggest? Amazon shows a dozen, although I would rule out Bluetooth as just another potential error source...
But to be honest, these Elms look like the cheapest Chinese hackjobs around. As a compromise of AutoEnginuity products what about a refurbished AutoEnginuity OBD2 Windows Scan Tool (USB) + Software v10 + SpeedTracer v5 for 108 Dollars?
I guess later on I can buy the specific Jag software on top for another 220 Dollars?
Regards
Fritz
But to be honest, these Elms look like the cheapest Chinese hackjobs around. As a compromise of AutoEnginuity products what about a refurbished AutoEnginuity OBD2 Windows Scan Tool (USB) + Software v10 + SpeedTracer v5 for 108 Dollars?
I guess later on I can buy the specific Jag software on top for another 220 Dollars?
Regards
Fritz
Stay away from the $20 Chinese jobs though, get the real item.
Cheers,
#9
All depends on what you want to spend. I have both a USB and a Bluetooth ELM interface and use them almost daily, use the bluetooth the most. No trouble connecting or with data speeds, they are just slower than the J2534 interface I also have. I never have any connecting issues, I don't even think about it, I just work.
Stay away from the $20 Chinese jobs though, get the real item.
Cheers,
Stay away from the $20 Chinese jobs though, get the real item.
Cheers,
But I think I understand more clearly now - ELM(327) is a chipset, rather than a brand (like AutoEnginuity)? So when I searched the webshops, they naturally brought the cheapest Chinese products sporting "ELM" first. D'oh!
The basic OBD package from A.E. would cost me ~110 USD and be upgradeable with their Jag specific package for another ~220 USD. That's the best product, as I understand it.
So anything else would have to be clearly cheaper than the 110 USD.
Regards,
Fritz
#10
Right, the ELM device is what they call a 'command interpreter', it translates the software commands to something the vehicle electronics can understand, and back again.
I use ScanXL Pro, from Palmer Performance with my devices. The USB job is an OBD2All-in-one and the Bluetooth is from OBDLink, and their performance has been superb. Both types can be had from each maker. I stick with the corded type instead of the all-in-a-box version so I can unwind the cord and hang it over the rearview mirror for greater bluetooth distance. That way I can connect with a car in the service lot if necessary to reset a Check Eng light; don't even have to drive it inside. Most of the time it stays coiled up and tied for convenience.
I've never considered AutoEnginuity basically because I have the full Jaguar and Ford diagnostic stuff at my disposal. I've heard a lot of good reports about it from others though.
Good luck!
I use ScanXL Pro, from Palmer Performance with my devices. The USB job is an OBD2All-in-one and the Bluetooth is from OBDLink, and their performance has been superb. Both types can be had from each maker. I stick with the corded type instead of the all-in-a-box version so I can unwind the cord and hang it over the rearview mirror for greater bluetooth distance. That way I can connect with a car in the service lot if necessary to reset a Check Eng light; don't even have to drive it inside. Most of the time it stays coiled up and tied for convenience.
I've never considered AutoEnginuity basically because I have the full Jaguar and Ford diagnostic stuff at my disposal. I've heard a lot of good reports about it from others though.
Good luck!
#11
Thanks,
Colin
#12
What you are hearing are the HVAC servo motors "hunting" for proper internal flap position. Very common issue with these cars as well as many other makes and models including our 2004 Lexus RX330. Sometimes the servo motors can be removed and cleaned, sometimes they must be replaced. The good news is that the HVAC systems continue to heat and cool normally. The bubbling noises are just an annoyance (until the motor decides it is done and quits). Sometimes the motors will work just fine for the life of the vehicle even though they continue to make the irritating noises....
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cbh03 (03-18-2012)
#13
What irritates me though is that it's noticable after you shut off the engine and pulled the key... i guess it stops after a while, since I couldn't notice any battery issues so far.
Regards
FritzTheJag
#14
Yeah, should be HVAC. When you switch between circulating air and fresh air you notice the same type, volume and direction of that sound...
What irritates me though is that it's noticable after you shut off the engine and pulled the key... i guess it stops after a while, since I couldn't notice any battery issues so far.
Regards
FritzTheJag
What irritates me though is that it's noticable after you shut off the engine and pulled the key... i guess it stops after a while, since I couldn't notice any battery issues so far.
Regards
FritzTheJag
Jaguar did publish a repair for the "bubbling" in the dash.......I call it "grinding rocks", that's what it sounds like to me. It means replacing all the mode actuators and is rather pricey, but it works. Bulletin is attached.
Cheers,
#15
#17
Got a new one on the weekend...:
- Main alarm (horn) going off (maybe weather related)
For whatever reason the car has been refitted with a 3rd party alarm system, complete with an additional keyfob and an alarm LED jammed between dashboard and A-pillar. I was determined to rip it out again from the beginning, I guess I have to speed that up, because last night after hours of rain the horn went off! And iirc, that happened twice before, I just couldn't figure it out to be my car.
Maybe it's not from the 3rd party but the OEM alarm causing this, but for better troubleshooting I start with pulling the former one out.
-> where to start looking for the "box"?
-> anyone can confirm false alarms in wet weather?
-> is there a fuse just for the horn as a stopgap?
-> are any error codes stored after an alarm?
By the way, my OBD reader is on its way - I got a new Launch CReader V for a good price.
Regards
FritzTheJag
- Main alarm (horn) going off (maybe weather related)
For whatever reason the car has been refitted with a 3rd party alarm system, complete with an additional keyfob and an alarm LED jammed between dashboard and A-pillar. I was determined to rip it out again from the beginning, I guess I have to speed that up, because last night after hours of rain the horn went off! And iirc, that happened twice before, I just couldn't figure it out to be my car.
Maybe it's not from the 3rd party but the OEM alarm causing this, but for better troubleshooting I start with pulling the former one out.
-> where to start looking for the "box"?
-> anyone can confirm false alarms in wet weather?
-> is there a fuse just for the horn as a stopgap?
-> are any error codes stored after an alarm?
By the way, my OBD reader is on its way - I got a new Launch CReader V for a good price.
Regards
FritzTheJag
Last edited by FritzTheJag; 03-19-2012 at 09:56 AM.
#18
- amber motor symbol on (after 1000km drive)
I hope to get some OBD readings soon. The car, motor, drivetrain behave perfectly though. No other error lamp or error message shown in the instrument cluster.
Finally got my CReader V!
The codes I pulled:
P0175 - System Too Rich Bank 2
P0411 - Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected
P0172 - System Too Rich Bank 1
P0411 - Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected
(additional freeze frame motor data available, if of interest)
Since the car works fine, I will delete the codes and the MIL and watch out if new codes are generated... other opinions?
Regards
Fritz
I hope to get some OBD readings soon. The car, motor, drivetrain behave perfectly though. No other error lamp or error message shown in the instrument cluster.
Finally got my CReader V!
The codes I pulled:
P0175 - System Too Rich Bank 2
P0411 - Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected
P0172 - System Too Rich Bank 1
P0411 - Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected
(additional freeze frame motor data available, if of interest)
Since the car works fine, I will delete the codes and the MIL and watch out if new codes are generated... other opinions?
Regards
Fritz
#19
Heureka I guess...
We were able to manually adjust the Xenons to a better angle, nothing is broken or has been repaired. The light is very good now.
Major bummer though: The auto-leveling sensors have never been connected (if they are even there, how to check for sure?), the plug in the left wheel-arch has been empty for years. Also it seems no washers have been fitted...
Now I have to think of something...
Regards
Fritz
Major bummer though: The auto-leveling sensors have never been connected (if they are even there, how to check for sure?), the plug in the left wheel-arch has been empty for years. Also it seems no washers have been fitted...
Now I have to think of something...
Regards
Fritz
Well well well... this weekend my car had for the first time its front bumper off. And lo and behold: The car has installed headlamp washers, the two-pump tank and the hoses. No idea if they were also retro-fitted, since the Xenons are definately the European type.
Fact is - the washers never worked, as they seem to miss the "spraying tips", also the openings were glued shut.
What would you suggest on how to proceed? First to check if the second pump is working?
Anybody has a nice high-res picture of a complete washer unit?
Regards
Fritz
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