Removing the Passenger Side Interior Wood
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I hope one of our techs will chime in.
If you have a good connection with your dealer a quick call to them might be helpfull
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The following users liked this post:
S-Type Owner (09-10-2023)
#4
You might find an exploded parts diagram at a dealer (or online).
Maybe you could get one of those LED-illuminated inspection stethoscope things up behind it? The kind that are USB and you can see the picture on your PC. (I keep meaning to buy one.)
Maybe removing the glove box would help with seeing/access.
Maybe you could get one of those LED-illuminated inspection stethoscope things up behind it? The kind that are USB and you can see the picture on your PC. (I keep meaning to buy one.)
Maybe removing the glove box would help with seeing/access.
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m.w.l. (05-17-2016)
#6
Yes in the JTIS it sorta shows 4 fasteners in the corners. But I have a picture of the wood piece with the passenger side airbag and it looks more complicated?? I don't have that picture with me. I will try to post it later. Just afraid to start prying on things!!
JagV8-Sure would like a link to something like that!! I have wanted a borescope for a long time but just too expensive for a home mechanic.
MyBlackCat-Why was the piece removed? I have a faint crack all the way across my wood on the passenger side.
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JagV8-Sure would like a link to something like that!! I have wanted a borescope for a long time but just too expensive for a home mechanic.
MyBlackCat-Why was the piece removed? I have a faint crack all the way across my wood on the passenger side.
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MyBlackCat-Why was the piece removed? I have a faint crack all the way across my wood on the passenger side.
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tbird.. Ours had a crack in it that was small,since it was under warranty the dealer sent it away (England) for repair and refinishing. 3 weeks.
If you plan a refinish the whole dash (both pieces) should be done so they match.
I remember some members on here have replaced theirs with other types of materials. Maybe you should send a shout out to anybody that might have one to sell or swap.
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Not yet. It's cold out and I want the car to be warm before I attempt interior work. Afraid of breaking stuff!! The pictures I have of the airbag parts just don’t look like what the JTIS has?? It looks like it should just pry off like the surround of the shifter. But my pictures don't show any clips. I have priced the wood parts (expensive) and Jaguar sells both dash pieces as a set so the wood will match. My local Jag dealer recommended just refinishing the cracked piece and says they should be able to match it very good.
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#14
I also post under Tbird6 sorry for the confusion!! I got both dash wood pieces off and wanted to post some hints and a picture of the cracks in my passenger side air bag cover panel. First and most important. If you don't REALLY need to remove the dash wood pieces then DON'T!!!! These two pieces are metal and snap into metal clips in the dash board. The clips hold the two pieces together with unbelievable force. I really thought the panels would just split in two because I was pulling so hard!!! The big piece around the gauges was a bit easier. The passenger side is almost impossible with out removing the drivers side piece first. Nowhere to get a grip. I used nylon pry sticks and then still cracked the passenger piece. Since I was taking it out to repair a crack anyway I am not too worried! But the JTIS is correct and nothing else needs to be removed. The arrows in the diagrams point to all the clips. Try to pry as close to the clips as possible. Removing the pieces distorts the spikes on the retaining clips. I straighten them back with pliers and small screw drivers to grip properly so no rattles when reassembled.
Local dealer has a wood refinishing program and said about 3-5 days and only about $200. This seems low compared to what I have seen posted before? But it is to just refinish the existing wood and not replace the wood veneer. I will bring in both dash pieces so they can decide if the drivers side needs work too. I am again impressed with the build quality in this car. Many metal castings make the dash very strong and creak free. The only exception is the glove box assembly. I took it out to see if I could some how push the passenger side airbag cover off from behind. It's all plastic and feels cheap and flimsy compared to everything else??
The short crack in the picture is the one I did trying to remove the panel. The long crack is all the way across the piece and kind of curls around the passenger airbag indicator light. I still have no clue on how it got there? Hope it was just a freak deal and won't happen again!!
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Local dealer has a wood refinishing program and said about 3-5 days and only about $200. This seems low compared to what I have seen posted before? But it is to just refinish the existing wood and not replace the wood veneer. I will bring in both dash pieces so they can decide if the drivers side needs work too. I am again impressed with the build quality in this car. Many metal castings make the dash very strong and creak free. The only exception is the glove box assembly. I took it out to see if I could some how push the passenger side airbag cover off from behind. It's all plastic and feels cheap and flimsy compared to everything else??
The short crack in the picture is the one I did trying to remove the panel. The long crack is all the way across the piece and kind of curls around the passenger airbag indicator light. I still have no clue on how it got there? Hope it was just a freak deal and won't happen again!!
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#15
I would talk with your wood refinishing vendor about coating the entire back side of all wood veneer pieces with an epoxy resin to add significant strength to each piece and possibly prevent additional cracks from getting started. Of course, that coating will need to be thin enough so it won't interfere with re-installation....
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They'll do it if you make it a requirement. Ask them what coating they recommend for maximum strength, and go with it. Should be some type of epoxy. If you have plenty of room on the back sides of the trim pieces, I would do multiple coatings for even more strength. First coat, let it dry, second coat, let it dry, then coat it yet one more time. As long as your trim pieces are out of the car and being refinished, do it right to ensure maximum strength and minimum chance of future cracks....
Last edited by Jon89; 04-17-2010 at 01:30 PM.
#18
After reviewing tbirds pics of the complete air bag system and clubairth1s advise of not daring to F*ddle with it. I see the 2 steel tabs that present a problem and looks as if the whole assembly would have to be removed, hense the vague discription of removing the glove box. clubairth1 did you happen to take pics of the retaining clips? Since I presume that you have sent the pieces out for restoration can you take and post pics of everything that you stated before the reinstall?
#19
The curve in that long crack suggests to me that the wood grain has curve - very likely due to a knot or similar. Otherwise you'd expect any crack to be straighter. Just bad luck that it cracked, I suspect
Are they confident they can make a seamless join before re-finishing? (gulp)
Lovely photo - thanks.
Are they confident they can make a seamless join before re-finishing? (gulp)
Lovely photo - thanks.
#20
Since there seems to be some interest in my dash wood removal project I took some more pictures. In one picture you can see the sharp metal point of the retaining clip that digs into the back of the metal airbag face plate cover. This is what gives it such strong holding power. The clips stay in the dash so the metal fin has nothing on it except scratches. The metal cover is marked with Al Mg Si on the back. The face plate just has cast fins on the back that fit into the clips.
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The following 2 users liked this post by clubairth1:
Jumpin' Jag Flash (01-12-2016),
m.w.l. (05-17-2016)