question- I have a 3.0 s type 05 can you run this on reg. fuel the guy at Jag Birkshire Motors Richmondhill Ont. says you can i have read diff. that it will wreck motor
#2 the tranny hard shift when coming to a stop also told me have to reprogram computer new software 300 bucks can I get this software cheaper please HELP?

 

where can you get the software to reprogram transmission 05 3.0 s type.hard shifting dealer tells me tranny has to be reprogramed?

 

Use fuel as per handbook.
300 is too much but not DIY for most people due to lack of knowledge and tools. Try another dealer or if none near then they already know they have you by the nether regions. A reflash may not fix it because it doesn't 100% have to be that cause - at least get a money-back promise.

 

Transmission may be caused by a vacuum leak as well.

Are there any codes?

 

And what are fuel trims at idle?

 

no not any codes,guy at birkshire jag in richmonhill Canada tells me this.

 

DIY.
Get a cheap OBD tool with live data such as elm327 then read codes and check LTFTs. About $10.

 

It won't damage the engine in any way, but you may observe reduced power levels and increased fuel consumption.

 

so if there where a vacuum leak where would I check can you here it ?Thanks

 

Grab JTIS and look at all the hoses etc involved. Could be any of them and a small leak you wouldn't hear. OBD will show if there are any. That's one major reason why it's so useful.

 

Here is something I did awhile back may be it will help you:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ics-faq-52720/

 

I have suffered with poor workmanship on my 2003 S-type 4.2 NA 6HP26 equipped S-type and drivability issues. Now a new dealer has taken over in my area so things are improving. These guys also carry Infinity, Aston Martin, Lotus and more.

I had them repair a transmission cooler lines failure caused by some bad warranty repairs. They did a very nice job and while in for this I got the engine and transmission re-flashed. The engine drivability has improved and cured a start up problem in the unit from day 1. Once it has been about 100-200 miles it will see better mileage and a fuel trim stabilization. Last flashed in 2006.

The transmission was also done after the lines replaced and topped up with Lifeguard 6 Fluid (OEM ZF). A sample was taken and I'm going to be monitoring the shift adaptation as it progresses. My gearbox has had all sort of problems from the beginning as well. The Hard shift and failure to downshift and roll out are not repeatable in any other same S-type I have driven including a Jaguar Press car I used for a week in LA. I kept trying to communicate the problems. The J gate was in fact broken and misadjusted, finally got it fixed. The problems turned out to be software related. I suggested that but it fell on deaf ears and closed minds. Then there was the "ZF Squawk" the occasional sever sounding noise. Since the reprograming, most of the gearbox issues have gone or are in adaptation and will improve. My tech at the new store has said drive it and see if it is better after adaptation (ASIS) has finished. In any case he said bring it back in a month for a follow up. I asked and he said a no charge evaluation. What a change.

These new Jaguars and all newer post 1996 cars have become unbelievably over complicated. 10 CAN control boxes costing about $500 a piece. Also the must be awakened and serial number matched, so you can't do it. Also these boxes do multiple things so any one quits working and the box needs replacing. Another thing breaks controlled by that box and again replacement. Yikes. My 1986 XJ 6 looks like a brilliant daily driver.

This has been done in response to fewer and fewer actual old style techs that can find and fix problems. The self diagnosing car comes at a high long term cost to the owner. So if you keep your cars for decades as I do it may reach a point where the cost to keep it running may exceed it's value, sort of like a mechanical total lost.

My biggest concern is that the previous work done left my box 2 liters overfilled. That's not good. So the sample will be analyzed to determine if damage or any problems are indicated, so I can make an informed decision.

Your fuel question, the engine software has the ability to adjust to octane variation and within limits will tolerate mid grade high quality fuel. I would suggest V-power or Shell mid grade for cleaning qualities, but ant Top Tier fuel supplier should give good service.

It is important to listen for knocking under acceleration as this will in fact harm your engine. We are all feeling the pain of gas prices. I have found pay me now or later. Small price for avoiding major engine repairs.

Recommendations

Best Gas you can afford
Change transmission filter and pan. Don't forget the sleeve they're cheap
and usually leak.
Have the Engine and trans re-flashed 1.4 hours by Jaguar Dealer about a $150.
Change engine oil and filter regularly ( I see a 2mpg improvement just after changing)


Probably more than you wanted, but hope it helps.

Always time for questions

Robert

Info Links

https://www.thectsc.com/index.php?p=home

Top Tier Gasoline

 

The ridiculously complex electronics in these cars is a definite downside. We've owned our 2005 S-Type since December 2008 and our 2006 XK8 since February 2012. I DIY as much as I can but the electronics in these vehicles are well beyond my skill set. Thus far we've been very fortunate. My guess is that electronic issues will eventually cause me to eliminate these cars from our stable. I sincerely hope that decision is still many years away, however. The S-Type has been a great bang-for-the-buck sedan, and my wife loves her XK8 more than any vehicle she's ever had before....

 

Get used to the idea that almost all modern cars will have as much or more electronics. People want complex features or are sold them so the outcome is clear.

1stjagjet - just get a good OBD tool like the Mongoose JLR and you can DIY the whole network. Think of it as a computer-controlled house with a car engine. Used modules are mostly OK and cheap. If you ever need any.

2l over sounds impossible...

I think you'll struggle to hear knocking as the car itself listens for it and avoids it. It'll be a lot better and faster at it than your hearing!

 

With all due respect- this topic has been thrashed to death a few too many times both with respect to octane requirements and the need for specific brands of fuel.

It has been demonstrated many times that these cars can operate successfully with no short or long term damage on regular (87 AKI) fuel. Many owners detect no difference in power levels or fuel consumption, never mind complete absence of detonation.

There's no evidence that top tier gas is of any benefit over other brands that do not participate in the marketing scheme. It is notable that neither Jaguar nor Ford (former parent company) endorse the concept- I feel fortunate NOT to own a car that appears to be finicky about fuel.

The OP (as well as myself) live in Canada where relatively few retailers belong to the top tier alliance. Most people outside of car geeks have never heard of it, meaning that it does not influence purchasing habits. Despite these two factors, fuel related problems are pretty well unheard of.

An owner might feel better about putting in one brand or the other, but apparently the cars couldn't care less.

 

Mikey

I know living in Canada presents it's own set of challenges.

With regard to better fuel, there is not only scientific but real world data that confirms the value of high quality fuel. The Nikisil liner problems of the early V8 Jaguar is documented proof that the cheap fuel washed the lubrication off of the liners. This caused premature failure of the liners and engine failure. Owners that used high quality fuel suffered no such failures. All you have to do is look at a fuel injector or intake valve and the benefits of high quality fuel are more than apparent. As your car shuts down, the last little bit of fuel hangs on the tip of the injector and because of the heat turns into a black carbonized deposit that over time restricts, alters and blocks the fuel flow reducing efficiency, mileage and drivability. The resulting effect coats the valve stem and table with large drops of fuel that again over time turn the valve into what looks like a big black mushroom that totally destroys the airflow and thus performance.

The tolerance of the engine to accept lower octane fuel is high but should it be exceeded and you hear knocking that is when damage can and usually results.

Having disassembled a fair number of engines in the last 40 years, I can offer a visible and measurable difference in components from indiscriminately fueled engines. Look in a carb, intake manifold, fuel injector or a valve, they will all tell you how they been treated. Or indeed mistreated, and that happens all too often.

All the best

Robert

 

You're talking about DIFFERENT fuel. The sulphur content has been legislated to be lower (for environmental reasons). But fuel is the same at a given time from any seller (if the same grade - Premium, 95RON or whatever way one's region describes it).

Over here some people claim that supermarket fuel is not as good as "better" (non-supermarket) fuel but that's just a false claim. The law doesn't allow the kinds of things these people claim and besides the supermarkets buy many times from the very companies these claimants use (my relative part-owned one of the major supermarkets and was very clear about this issue).

Of course, put in your car whichever you like

 

+1. Spot on.

1stjagjet- Sulphur content is a different kettle of fish. In actual fact- the very brands that you promote as being 'superior' had just as much sulphur as the 'off' brands. A simple search on this very forum will confirm that bore wash was not related to one brand over another. This is now a moot point as sulphur has been reduced in ALL fuels to an insignificant amount.

It's also been well documented (and bashed to death here many times) that there's no difference in 'quality' in fuel from one retailer to another since it all comes from one or two regional refineries or distributors. 'Top tier' brands sell the same fuel as the much maligned independents or (gasp) Costco. I hope you're not trying to infer that high octane fuel is of higher 'quality' than regular fuel- possibly the most common myth.

The ONLY potential difference from one brand to another is the additive package. As to who has the best additive package- there's little or no evidence that one retailer is any better than the other. Where's the fleets of ruined engines rotting on the side of the road from using 'cheap' fuel? Unheard of.

You may have been tearing down engines for 40 years or so- about the same as me and many others here, but it sounds like you're about 10-15 years behind the curve in understanding modern fuels. Again, the archives here will provide many hours of informative reading to help you get up to speed.

 

Just to add a bit more Jaguar information. Jaguar beginning in 2003 with the 4.2L added oil squirters that spray oil on the underside of the pistons. So it's much more difficult for the fuel to wash the oil off the cylinder walls.

So even if the Sulfur was not reduced this design improvement would have reduced or eliminated bore wash completely. Another reason to try to stay with a 2003+ S Type.
.
.
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Gents

My point of course was to illustrate what a difference a fuel choice can make.I have never mentioned supermarket or any sales point with regard to fuel. We are all in charge of which nozzle we place in our tanks. Today's fuel is blended for a great many things most of which is to maximize the producer's profit margin. Petrol is only stable enough to be at its optimum for about 60 days. By way of comparison, World War 2 fuel if found today in a 55 gallon drum will test out within a range 5% of its original spec. I have a friend at the DOE that tests all fuel type for quality and specification in use from small engines, road fuels and all Aviation products.

The modern fuel that we have to endure these days has ethanol, which harms most classis cars in that it attacks the fuel system components and doesn't deliver anywhere near the Milijoules of power / liter of Ethyl.Let's feed the world with corn and put gas in our tanks.

Modern fuel is meant to be burned at 1500 to 2500 rpm in the current engines available. Flame propagation is optimized in that range to burn cleanly and efficiently. Unlike the modern F1 fuel, that is based on pump gas, which is optimized at 10 times that engine speed. Look up and down the pit lane in F1, you don't see Lubrication and Fuel sponsors but technical partners, like Shell, who are at the leading edge of technology in fuel design and production.



Clubairth1
The AJ34SC has the spray jet that you mention, but not the AJ33 NA. Plus the spray is more for the wrist pins and piston cooling in the Supercharged engine than the cylinder walls. This engine AJ33/34 was one of Ward's 10 best in that year. The F1 style Bedplate motor is a great design , and enlarged to 4.5 by RocketSports and Tony Gentilozzi was able to produce nearly 700 reliable horsepower again on pump based fuel.

V8 and Mikey

To speculate on what tools I might have or need is sheer folly and sounds more personal in nature and less informational. It is very easy to sit a dark room and try to be clever, but my goal is always to inform. If you find you don't meet that test in your comments then just think it to yourself. Most people are here for help and not personality clashes.

Join the Society of Automotive Engineers and you will find more facts and information. Great resource. I highly recommend it. Below are 2 information sources you should have in your knowledge base.

WardsAuto Home Page | Automotive Industry News, Data and Statistics

SAE International

The JLR Mongoose is a great product, but what can be done without a full Topix subscription. Can you install an RECM and make it function?

More than up to Speed

Robert