*New* Battery Drain thread...
#41
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I have a 2005 S Type and a 2003 Lincoln LS and that box is not on either car?
Does anybody with a 2000 year S Type have this same box?? It sure looks like it might be something aftermarket installed.
I am not able to identify what it is. I looked in the 2000 JTIS but did not find anything.
Your description of a secondary horn is also worrisome because the car only has the full size horns in front of the radiator and the interior beeper for the alarm and a few other chimes.
Can you tell if there are any non-factory wires/boxes etc on the car?
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Does anybody with a 2000 year S Type have this same box?? It sure looks like it might be something aftermarket installed.
I am not able to identify what it is. I looked in the 2000 JTIS but did not find anything.
Your description of a secondary horn is also worrisome because the car only has the full size horns in front of the radiator and the interior beeper for the alarm and a few other chimes.
Can you tell if there are any non-factory wires/boxes etc on the car?
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#42
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one photo is a wider angle to get perspective. the other is the closup of the box.
Anyway...new problem - now its been 17 hours and the battery is dead again. I'm gonna vomit!
funny thing is...another data point - I took out the key, and popped the boot and then hooked up my CTEK charger, and as soon as I did, all 4 windows went down half way.![Icon Werd](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_werd.gif)
I can't figure this out. yesterday the car went to sleep, on its own...totally to sleep. now dead again.
Anyway...new problem - now its been 17 hours and the battery is dead again. I'm gonna vomit!
funny thing is...another data point - I took out the key, and popped the boot and then hooked up my CTEK charger, and as soon as I did, all 4 windows went down half way.
![Icon Werd](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_werd.gif)
I can't figure this out. yesterday the car went to sleep, on its own...totally to sleep. now dead again.
Cheers,
#43
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XJR,
I wish I knew the answer to that...btwn those hours I went inside and went to bed. The visor test was done earlier in the day over at my friend's flat.
Since I bought this car used, I don't have any info on after market systems. I know I didn't put anything on the car.
Let me ask one question (sorry): I remember another tech, Brutal, has talked about the a slow drain that brings the voltage down on the battery, then all the systems wake up and drain the battery further. Does anyone know - at what voltage this "wake up" occurs at? The reason I bring this up - is I am wondering if this problem is concurrent w/ the AGM I put in the car in June. It's hard to distinguish - because the car was in UK storage and on the boat for 6 months - then as a part of general maintenance I replaced the battery when it got here w/ an AGM. It seemed to be fine - the only issue was that after the car got here (after sitting for 6months) it blew the bottem end bearing and I replaced the long motor.
I know that's a long story - but, my point is that its hard to pinpoint an exact time this battery drain began. So, even though the battery has been tested - I'm wondering if its always sitting at (say, for example) 12.1V which might be a low voltage situation. Last night I gave it a full charge, we'll see if the battery is dead in the am. ( I took the bus to night shift).
Sorry to ramble - but, I just want to give all info possible. cheers
Scott
I wish I knew the answer to that...btwn those hours I went inside and went to bed. The visor test was done earlier in the day over at my friend's flat.
Since I bought this car used, I don't have any info on after market systems. I know I didn't put anything on the car.
Let me ask one question (sorry): I remember another tech, Brutal, has talked about the a slow drain that brings the voltage down on the battery, then all the systems wake up and drain the battery further. Does anyone know - at what voltage this "wake up" occurs at? The reason I bring this up - is I am wondering if this problem is concurrent w/ the AGM I put in the car in June. It's hard to distinguish - because the car was in UK storage and on the boat for 6 months - then as a part of general maintenance I replaced the battery when it got here w/ an AGM. It seemed to be fine - the only issue was that after the car got here (after sitting for 6months) it blew the bottem end bearing and I replaced the long motor.
I know that's a long story - but, my point is that its hard to pinpoint an exact time this battery drain began. So, even though the battery has been tested - I'm wondering if its always sitting at (say, for example) 12.1V which might be a low voltage situation. Last night I gave it a full charge, we'll see if the battery is dead in the am. ( I took the bus to night shift).
Sorry to ramble - but, I just want to give all info possible. cheers
Scott
#45
#47
#48
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I've been thinking about that since my last post. I don't have much experience with glass mat batteries yet, but 4 hours from seemingly OK to a flat battery just doesn't sound right; not if we are to assume the battery is good, and the correct size for the car. That would have to be a hefty drain, way more than just the Switched System. Even the headlights being on would take more than 4 hours to kill a good battery. Maybe it is time to substitute that battery to rule it out.
It's entirely possible there is a fracture to a plate or tie bar inside that battery. That could explain going from good to flat in a very short time.
Just a thought......
It's entirely possible there is a fracture to a plate or tie bar inside that battery. That could explain going from good to flat in a very short time.
Just a thought......
#49
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Not sure if we are talking about the same post but we did have dialog about the ignition switch cylinder being replaced and fixing the battery drain. Look at this TSB Item #2 http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...0-05AmS120.pdf This might help I checked my car and did not see the box but I have a 2000 3.0. Sorry! You may want to read this thread and see if it gives toy any help Battery Drain - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
#50
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Gus,
thanks. The ignition switch was already replaced last week ($188 parts and $100 labor..Yikes). No joy.
And that TSB...oh my. Upon initial review, that may not be viable where I am. Remember I'm 1000 miles from the nearest Jag dealer - its a 16 hour drive. Anyway - because of prices for parts here (3 times cost of US/UK parts) that will kill me too. But, its at least worth examining.
The battery is only 3 months old. I was able to get it from the US and save $hundreds. If I buy the Jag battery here, its around $400, so not easy like just ditching a battery in the US and getting a new one - especially if we're not sure its going to work. I'm getting help from a co-worker who's going to take a battery out of one of his cars and see if it drains as quickly.
thanks.........
UPDATE - got home - 15 hours after charging the car is in the drive all nite- did the sun visor lamp test - and the car went to sleep (ie, the visor lamp went off) after 35 min. So, again - there you have it - a fully charged battery that survives the night w/out draining. I'll give another update in 8 hours after I wake up. I think there may be something to the fact that this battery commonly sits at 12.1-12.3V - that might be low for the bus, and the components see it. Now, fully charged and without a volt meter, i figure the voltage is back up to around 12.7 nominally charged.
thanks. The ignition switch was already replaced last week ($188 parts and $100 labor..Yikes). No joy.
And that TSB...oh my. Upon initial review, that may not be viable where I am. Remember I'm 1000 miles from the nearest Jag dealer - its a 16 hour drive. Anyway - because of prices for parts here (3 times cost of US/UK parts) that will kill me too. But, its at least worth examining.
The battery is only 3 months old. I was able to get it from the US and save $hundreds. If I buy the Jag battery here, its around $400, so not easy like just ditching a battery in the US and getting a new one - especially if we're not sure its going to work. I'm getting help from a co-worker who's going to take a battery out of one of his cars and see if it drains as quickly.
thanks.........
UPDATE - got home - 15 hours after charging the car is in the drive all nite- did the sun visor lamp test - and the car went to sleep (ie, the visor lamp went off) after 35 min. So, again - there you have it - a fully charged battery that survives the night w/out draining. I'll give another update in 8 hours after I wake up. I think there may be something to the fact that this battery commonly sits at 12.1-12.3V - that might be low for the bus, and the components see it. Now, fully charged and without a volt meter, i figure the voltage is back up to around 12.7 nominally charged.
Last edited by leightos; 12-04-2011 at 07:47 PM. Reason: UPDATE
#51
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SECOND UPDATE:
left the visor open, went in and locked the door, and alarmed the car and the car went to sleep(after 35 mins) Checked it again 3 hours later (total 18 hours no drain) and the visor light was off.
Checked it after 22 hours - the visor light is back on.
I would guess, that even though the car is going to sleep - there is a drain that wakes up the car. This drain shows up after 12 hours and before 22 hours it seems.
I'm so completely stumped that I can't figure it out.
left the visor open, went in and locked the door, and alarmed the car and the car went to sleep(after 35 mins) Checked it again 3 hours later (total 18 hours no drain) and the visor light was off.
Checked it after 22 hours - the visor light is back on.
![Confused](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/confused.gif)
I'm so completely stumped that I can't figure it out.
Last edited by leightos; 12-05-2011 at 01:09 AM.
#52
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Update 3:
2 pictures attached - one wide angle of the boot - the other a close up of a yellow relay.
Now that the car has been shut off for 24 hours, and the visor lamp came on about 2-4 hours ago - that must mean the car has woken up
I used my hand to feel the RECM to see if its warm. Its not. I tried some componenets under the bonnet, including the mysterious box. Nothing warm.
But, this module in the boot... its very warm to touch, and I'm not sure it was like that before. This wiring in the back was attributed by the auto elecs to be part of the tow hitch assembly. They disconnected. i thought the relay was the same component.
Could this be the culprit? I pulled it and am waiting to see if the car goes to sleep again...tick tock.
2 pictures attached - one wide angle of the boot - the other a close up of a yellow relay.
Now that the car has been shut off for 24 hours, and the visor lamp came on about 2-4 hours ago - that must mean the car has woken up
I used my hand to feel the RECM to see if its warm. Its not. I tried some componenets under the bonnet, including the mysterious box. Nothing warm.
But, this module in the boot... its very warm to touch, and I'm not sure it was like that before. This wiring in the back was attributed by the auto elecs to be part of the tow hitch assembly. They disconnected. i thought the relay was the same component.
Could this be the culprit? I pulled it and am waiting to see if the car goes to sleep again...tick tock.
#53
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Hope someone posts pics of their 4.0 but regardless check the handbook & elec guide to see if what you have is standard. It doesn't look like it is but the 4.0 is not what I have. My 4.2 has a lid on each of the fuse boxes and what I see in your pic suggests there's no lid. May well have been removed when someone fitted what looks like an odd object. Doesn't have to be the source of your troubles but would be a top suspect.
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leightos (12-05-2011)
#55
#56
#57
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Hi Gus,
I went through the elec guide earlier and didn't find the module. As you can see by the picture in my earlier post, it is the yellow relay only that was quite warm. Its located in the middle of the boot on the wall along the bumper about where the license plate is - its part of a black unit about the size of a deck of cards that has a big Ford stamp on it. The auto elec said it was related to the trailer hitch and assoc wiring.
I went through the elec guide earlier and didn't find the module. As you can see by the picture in my earlier post, it is the yellow relay only that was quite warm. Its located in the middle of the boot on the wall along the bumper about where the license plate is - its part of a black unit about the size of a deck of cards that has a big Ford stamp on it. The auto elec said it was related to the trailer hitch and assoc wiring.
#58
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leightos (12-05-2011)
#60
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Hi Gus,
I went through the elec guide earlier and didn't find the module. As you can see by the picture in my earlier post, it is the yellow relay only that was quite warm. Its located in the middle of the boot on the wall along the bumper about where the license plate is - its part of a black unit about the size of a deck of cards that has a big Ford stamp on it. The auto elec said it was related to the trailer hitch and assoc wiring.
I went through the elec guide earlier and didn't find the module. As you can see by the picture in my earlier post, it is the yellow relay only that was quite warm. Its located in the middle of the boot on the wall along the bumper about where the license plate is - its part of a black unit about the size of a deck of cards that has a big Ford stamp on it. The auto elec said it was related to the trailer hitch and assoc wiring.
One step at a time..............