Noticed about a week ago that it would shake ever so lightly when stopped at a light in drive. A couple days after the Malfunction Indicator Light turned on, but the problem was no worse at that point.

Noticed a few days ago while driving home after being in a 30mph zone and accelerating through a 45, that once at 45 it began to shake pretty good. Once above 55, it pretty much stops shaking. Car drives the same as always under 45, and I don't notice any unusual noises.

I'm no expert on cars, but my brother had a similar thing go on his car (a Caddy), and it was the transmission and also my dads S-type (2005 V6) needed a new transmission within four or five years.

The main problem here is that I'm poor, and don't really want to take it to a garage if its 95% chance to be the transmission which I can not afford to fix, and probably wouldn't be smart to anyways since its likely worth more than the car.

Is there any possible chance that thus is something other than the tranny?

Thanks in advance and I apologizing for being more or less an idiot when it comes to cars...

 

Read the codes!

Free at places like AutoZone. Or buy a cheap OBD tool such as elm327.

Probably not trans but you need the codes.

edit: probably a misfire, and probably caused by bad coil(s) - but check all the air intake tubing and the airbox to make sure no leaks

 

ahh didnt know that was free there, thats great news, ill have to give that shot. thanks bud

 

just saw your edit, so as compared to a transmission cost, a misfire would be somewhat good news, right? any ballpark estimate as to how much getting a misfire fixed would set me back?

 

Don't plan/etc until you have the codes

 

alright makes sense, ill take care of that tonight or tomorrow and report back. thanks again!

 

Alright made it to Autozone tonight, here what they came up with
P0307 was the code, definition says "cylinder misfire detected-cylinder number 7" shouldda got a v6, but good call on what the problem was Jagv8.
explanation says _ "the powertrain control modue monitos the cranlshaft speed and has detected a misfire condition"


for probable causes it lists
1. ignition system fault-spark plug(s), ignition wires, coil
2 -vacuum leak
3. injector fault
4. high or low fuel pressure

so it's probably the first option? anyone have a guess as to how much this will set me back? assuming its significantly less that a transmission would have been, but also being a Jag Im still not quite relieved yet.

 

also have a q quick question that im sure is bordering on being a stupid question, but being that this is the 7th cylinder, is there anyway the 7th and 8th cylinders can be deactivated or something like that essentially making my car a v6 with al'l cylinders working properly? figured its pretty improbably but cant hurt to ask

 

Wow, Great. I just replaced my coiils and plugs and gaskets for the plenum of the Intake Manifold. It's not expensive but i did had the same problem of the car shaking around 45-55mph and i changed 2 bad coils cuz i had 2 bad cylinder misfires i just never knew that the shaking was because of this.

 

No you can't turn off a cylinder or two!

This is quite common and on a 2000 it's quite cheap and is DIY (or any half-way decent mechanic).

Coils are realistically a wear item (heat & cold cycles, horrific voltages, etc). They're quite cheap for that year car. I think they'll be 2-pin. Make sure to buy the right part as pattern parts often fail

Equivalent Ford / LS coil may be in the FAQs.

FAQs have Vehicle Spec PDF which has diagram but (all years) #8 is engine rear, USA driver side. On 2000 #7 is same side, next to #8.

Common cause is water/damp. If it's that, it'll happen with a new coil so find & fix the cause
(May be via the cowl - plastic grille where wipers are - or even a leaking washer jet.)

If it's water, don't be surprised if #8 fails soon!

 

Well that's great news, glad to be avoiding a very costly repair.

Now would you suggest I do the job myself (more likely to have a relative that knows cars do it for me), or should I still take it to a mechanic and have them check to see what caused it? Like you said if it's caused by water, and I fix it myself, the problem will happen again, right?


As always, 'preciate the help. Would likely still be driving it with the assumption that it was the transmission with the logic that I'll drive it 'til it breaks if it weren't for you. Thanks!