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I just bought an 01 S-Type base 3.0 and these are the things that I noticed I need to sort out. Any ideas from experts will be highly appreciated, thanks. I am not mechanically or electrically inclined, so be nice.
engine rattles when cold, steady and smooth when warmed-up
rattle coming from sunroof, disappears when I push up a little from inside
brakes are spongy when cold and I have to make sure not to be too close to the car in front as it may not stop quick enough, still takes more distance to stop even when warmed up (compared to my new car)
interior lights are not working, the previous owner wired some lights under the seats instead
side mirror foldback is not working (does this model have this feature?)
no owners manual and I cannot figure out how to change the time on the radio
I am afraid that the leaper will soon be stolen or broken (it just sits there asking for trouble) and I would like to replace it with a badge (A$170+ shipping from USA, is this reasonable?)
steering seems a little loose compared to my '87 Sov
front side 'bangs' when I hit a sharp judder bar, I really would like to fix this
battery went flat the other night but seems ok after local RACV jumped-started from the boot
I want new floor mats and found new ones on Ebay for A$100, but without Jag thingy (name, emblem, what do you call them?)
Things that will do done in the next week or so (by local Jag specialist and not the dealer):
tune-up
replace all oils
The only thing that I can possibly do is wash the car and make the head-lights look new (I watched several youtube videos on how to do it).
You might ask why I bought the car? I like my Sov and never had any electrical or mechanical issues with it. It is now on blocks to preserve it.
I just bought an 01 S-Type base 3.0 and these are the things that I noticed I need to sort out. Any ideas from experts will be highly appreciated, thanks. I am not mechanically or electrically inclined, so be nice.
engine rattles when cold, steady and smooth when warmed-up
rattle coming from sunroof, disappears when I push up a little from inside
brakes are spongy when cold and I have to make sure not to be too close to the car in front as it may not stop quick enough, still takes more distance to stop even when warmed up (compared to my new car)
interior lights are not working, the previous owner wired some lights under the seats instead
side mirror foldback is not working (does this model have this feature?)
no owners manual and I cannot figure out how to change the time on the radio
I am afraid that the leaper will soon be stolen or broken (it just sits there asking for trouble) and I would like to replace it with a badge (A$170+ shipping from USA, is this reasonable?)
steering seems a little loose compared to my '87 Sov
front side 'bangs' when I hit a sharp judder bar, I really would like to fix this
battery went flat the other night but seems ok after local RACV jumped-started from the boot
HELP? thanks
Banging is possibly anti-roll bar bushes. Rattling engine when cold is possibly VVT solenoid.
Why do you think it needs a tune up? These cars tune themselves. However, if there is a misfire then you have a fault somewhere.
Banging is possibly anti-roll bar bushes. Rattling engine when cold is possibly VVT solenoid.
Why do you think it needs a tune up? These cars tune themselves. However, if there is a misfire then you have a fault somewhere.
Thanks, tune-up is what I do with my cars to get them running better. No misfire. I will get the anti-roll bar bushes and VVT solenoid checked out. So, no tune-up needed?
Thanks, tune-up is what I do with my cars to get them running better. No misfire. I will get the anti-roll bar bushes and VVT solenoid checked out. So, no tune-up needed?
No. On these relatively modern cars there is nothing to tune. They run on a closed loop system. Lambda sensors in the exhausts before and after the catalytic converters constantly monitor the exhaust gases and the ECU adjusts the mixture accordingly. There are no points or condensor to adjust, no distributor. Ignition timing is electronically controlled by the ECU. Each spark plug has its own coil. Plugs are platinum tipped and only need replacing every 40,000 miles (I think it is supposed to be every 50,000 but I wouldn't leave it that long). So the only tuning necessary is if you want to remap your ECU for more power or economy (a specialist job).
Maintenance: If you have an early model V6, changing the spark plugs is an expensive challenge. The left bank is easy, but the right bank require removal of the inlet manifold which has 4 expensive gaskets to replace. While you have the manifold off you may as well replace the cam cover gaskets (3 each bank) to ensure that you don't get oil seeping into the plug wells and causing a misfire (common problem apparently). While you have the cam covers off you have easy access to the VVT solenoids (that rattle when cold you mentioned), so replacing them at the same time will save you trouble later (I've done the one on my right bank. The left still works fine). Although someone said it might work if you cleaned them (mine looked spotless but replacing it worked).
While you remove the huge inlet manifold assembly you will probably snap the small plastic coolant pipe connections off (the plastic gets very brittle with age). So you may as well replace the coolant pipe assembly beneath the throttle body while it is accessible. Also check the plastic vacuum pipes that run through/beneath the inlet manifold. I am told they suffer heat fatigue and can crack, causing a misfire (mine were fine, so I ran them through some plastic ducting to preserve them, but you could wrap them instead). For an extra few bucks replace the two 40mm coolant pipes that connect to the engine too as they are impossible to replace with the manifold and throttle assembly on. There is a small bore plastic tee above the left cam cover which also snaps easily. I replaced mine with a 10mm brass tee.
Other maintenance is relatively easy. Air filter is easy, oil filter is too. Fuel filter is hidden behind the left front plastic wheel arch liner and is best done with the left front wheel removed.
Re-gassing your aircon is done from beneath the car. Yes, really!
Replacing the gearbox oil and filter is cheap on the early auto boxes but expensive on the later ones. Use a new gasket, don't over-tighten the bolts, and use the correct specification oil. It should be done every 70,000 miles, I am told.
If you have a strange whirring whine from the engine it may be the alternator bearings.
If your steering wheel buttons don't work they can be removed, stripped and cleaned to get them working again (disconnect battery before removing airbag!). Later cruise control button assembly will not work on early models. Neither will the electric window and mirror control panel (looks the same, plug will fit, but there are internal differences that will not work, period).
You mentioned poor brake performance. I've not had this, mine work great, but first I would check all calipers and pads are moving freely and bleed fresh fluid through to each one. If you still have a problem, check the other posts. I remember seeing another guy with this problem recently and one of the techs on here pointed him in the right direction.
When sitting in the drivers seat whilst the vehicle is in motion check your face for a serene smile, there should be one. If there isn't, something is wrong.
No. On these relatively modern cars there is nothing to tune. They run on a closed loop system. Lambda sensors in the exhausts before and after the catalytic converters constantly monitor the exhaust gases and the ECU adjusts the mixture accordingly. There are no points or condensor to adjust, no distributor. Ignition timing is electronically controlled by the ECU. Each spark plug has its own coil. Plugs are platinum tipped and only need replacing every 40,000 miles (I think it is supposed to be every 50,000 but I wouldn't leave it that long). So the only tuning necessary is if you want to remap your ECU for more power or economy (a specialist job).
Maintenance: If you have an early model V6, changing the spark plugs is an expensive challenge. The left bank is easy, but the right bank require removal of the inlet manifold which has 4 expensive gaskets to replace. While you have the manifold off you may as well replace the cam cover gaskets (3 each bank) to ensure that you don't get oil seeping into the plug wells and causing a misfire (common problem apparently). While you have the cam covers off you have easy access to the VVT solenoids (that rattle when cold you mentioned), so replacing them at the same time will save you trouble later (I've done the one on my right bank. The left still works fine). Although someone said it might work if you cleaned them (mine looked spotless but replacing it worked).
While you remove the huge inlet manifold assembly you will probably snap the small plastic coolant pipe connections off (the plastic gets very brittle with age). So you may as well replace the coolant pipe assembly beneath the throttle body while it is accessible. Also check the plastic vacuum pipes that run through/beneath the inlet manifold. I am told they suffer heat fatigue and can crack, causing a misfire (mine were fine, so I ran them through some plastic ducting to preserve them, but you could wrap them instead). For an extra few bucks replace the two 40mm coolant pipes that connect to the engine too as they are impossible to replace with the manifold and throttle assembly on. There is a small bore plastic tee above the left cam cover which also snaps easily. I replaced mine with a 10mm brass tee.
Other maintenance is relatively easy. Air filter is easy, oil filter is too. Fuel filter is hidden behind the left front plastic wheel arch liner and is best done with the left front wheel removed.
Re-gassing your aircon is done from beneath the car. Yes, really!
Replacing the gearbox oil and filter is cheap on the early auto boxes but expensive on the later ones. Use a new gasket, don't over-tighten the bolts, and use the correct specification oil. It should be done every 70,000 miles, I am told.
If you have a strange whirring whine from the engine it may be the alternator bearings.
If your steering wheel buttons don't work they can be removed, stripped and cleaned to get them working again (disconnect battery before removing airbag!). Later cruise control button assembly will not work on early models. Neither will the electric window and mirror control panel (looks the same, plug will fit, but there are internal differences that will not work, period).
You mentioned poor brake performance. I've not had this, mine work great, but first I would check all calipers and pads are moving freely and bleed fresh fluid through to each one. If you still have a problem, check the other posts. I remember seeing another guy with this problem recently and one of the techs on here pointed him in the right direction.
When sitting in the drivers seat whilst the vehicle is in motion check your face for a serene smile, there should be one. If there isn't, something is wrong.
So good Sportston. I will print this and give it to my specialist. I would love to do all these but no time or talent/skills. Why own something like this you ask, if I cannot do the job myself? I do not know the answer. But there is always a smile while driving this car, even with the things to do. I do have this though (If you have a strange whirring whine from the engine it may be the alternator bearings.) and not asking how you anticipated this. Cheers Sportston, this is so much help for me. I can now look forward to making her look better.
Can you share your thought on the following please:
the inside windows control for the side mirrors have no snapback (?) although I can manually move them forward/backwards
the interior lights do not work and the previous owner wired lights under the seats
rattle on the sunroof that goes away when I push up
So good Sportston. I will print this and give it to my specialist. I would love to do all these but no time or talent/skills. Why own something like this you ask, if I cannot do the job myself? I do not know the answer. But there is always a smile while driving this car, even with the things to do. I do have this though (If you have a strange whirring whine from the engine it may be the alternator bearings.) and not asking how you anticipated this. Cheers Sportston, this is so much help for me. I can now look forward to making her look better.
Can you share your thought on the following please:
the inside windows control for the side mirrors have no snapback (?) although I can manually move them forward/backwards
the interior lights do not work and the previous owner wired lights under the seats
rattle on the sunroof that goes away when I push up
Thanks Sportston
One more thing I forgot. While the inlet manifold is off replace the rubber seals (large O-rings) on the Intake Control Valves. They are prone to leaking. The replacements are made of a different type of rubber and fix the problem.
If you are getting someone else to remove the inlet manifold to replace plugs etc. make sure they replace all 4 of the gaskets. Some mechanics cheat and only replace the upper gaskets to save time. This is a false economy, the lower ones can leak.
Your mirrors probably don't have an electric folding mechanism if yours is a base model. Mine doesn't. I just fold the relevant one manually if parked on the street. Or did you mean they cannot be adjusted up and down, and left to right?
Interior lights: not sure about that. Check all the fuses? (Jaguar scatter fuse boxes around the car. Some are in the spare wheel well under the trunk carpet. If you get a leak they can get wet. Others are on the right front foot well behind a kick panel).
Sunroof: I have a theory about that. I will check my car and get back to you later.
One more thing I forgot. While the inlet manifold is off replace the rubber seals (large O-rings) on the Intake Control Valves. They are prone to leaking. The replacements are made of a different type of rubber and fix the problem.
If you are getting someone else to remove the inlet manifold to replace plugs etc. make sure they replace all 4 of the gaskets. Some mechanics cheat and only replace the upper gaskets to save time. This is a false economy, the lower ones can leak.
Your mirrors probably don't have an electric folding mechanism if yours is a base model. Mine doesn't. I just fold the relevant one manually if parked on the street. Or did you mean they cannot be adjusted up and down, and left to right?
Interior lights: not sure about that. Check all the fuses? (Jaguar scatter fuse boxes around the car. Some are in the spare wheel well under the trunk carpet. If you get a leak they can get wet. Others are on the right front foot well behind a kick panel).
Sunroof: I have a theory about that. I will check my car and get back to you later.
Thanks a bunch mate. Dealer said its an SE, is that the base model? Anyway, I can just do what you do and fold them manually. I found a pdf that tells me where the fuses are. I will search. Thanks for chasing the sunroof rattle, much appreciated.
I just found a job sheet done by a dealer 1 year ago and seems all oils were replaced except transmission, which the dealer said needs maintenance. I will get that done.
Thanks a bunch mate. Dealer said its an SE, is that the base model? Anyway, I can just do what you do and fold them manually. I found a pdf that tells me where the fuses are. I will search. Thanks for chasing the sunroof rattle, much appreciated.
I just found a job sheet done by a dealer 1 year ago and seems all oils were replaced except transmission, which the dealer said needs maintenance. I will get that done.
You're welcome.
Sunroof: pull back the blind and tilt the sunroof up. You will see about 3/4 of the way along the side a screw. There is one on each side. See pic below. There is also one about 1/4 of the way along on each side, but you can't get to them without removing the black plastic rail (not sure how to do this but is may be in the manual. Apparently you can do a search in the pdf to find what you are looking for). They attach the glass to the frame. They can be loosened and allow movement of the glass. By moving the positioning of the glass and re-tightening the screws you may be able to fix your rattle. Make sure your glass doesn't sit too high or too low when the roof is closed.
Failing that, open your sunroof all the way back. You should see a small wind deflector pop up at the front of the aperture. If it doesn't pop up, you may have a broken spring causing a rattle.
I hope that helps. Let us know how you get on.
How many miles has your car done? Any service record of when the plugs were last changed?
You're welcome.
Sunroof: pull back the blind and tilt the sunroof up. You will see about 3/4 of the way along the side a screw. There is one on each side. See pic below. There is also one about 1/4 of the way along on each side, but you can't get to them without removing the black plastic rail (not sure how to do this but is may be in the manual. Apparently you can do a search in the pdf to find what you are looking for). They attach the glass to the frame. They can be loosened and allow movement of the glass. By moving the positioning of the glass and re-tightening the screws you may be able to fix your rattle. Make sure your glass doesn't sit too high or too low when the roof is closed.
Failing that, open your sunroof all the way back. You should see a small wind deflector pop up at the front of the aperture. If it doesn't pop up, you may have a broken spring causing a rattle.
I hope that helps. Let us know how you get on.
How many miles has your car done? Any service record of when the plugs were last changed?
Thanks mate. Soon as its a bit warmer, I will chase that sunroof. its 6c outside and 4c in the garage. The speedo says 156k and the sparks were changed June last year.
Thanks mate. Soon as its a bit warmer, I will chase that sunroof. its 6c outside and 4c in the garage. The speedo says 156k and the sparks were changed June last year.
By the looks of that bill, many of the things I mentioned have already been done. Someone maintained it reasonably well by the looks of it. The rattle when cold. Is it on the right or the left of the engine? Some other guy on here said his has always been like that and ignores it. It's your decision but I see no other reason to remove the manifold. Plugs, done. Inlet gaskets, done. Cam cover gaskets, done. I am told most of them rattle on startup and it isn't too much to worry about. You could ignore it, but don't quote me on that.
On the other hand, if you have a misfire on any of the right bank cylinders then it might be worth it, if the rattle was on that side of the engine.
Thanks mate. Soon as its a bit warmer, I will chase that sunroof. its 6c outside and 4c in the garage. The speedo says 156k and the sparks were changed June last year.
By the looks of that bill, many of the things I mentioned have already been done. Someone maintained it reasonably well by the looks of it. The rattle when cold. Is it on the right or the left of the engine? Some other guy on here said his has always been like that and ignores it. It's your decision but I see no other reason to remove the manifold. Plugs, done. Inlet gaskets, done. Cam cover gaskets, done. I am told most of them rattle on startup and it isn't too much to worry about. You could ignore it, but don't quote me on that.
On the other hand, if you have a misfire on any of the right bank cylinders then it might be worth it, if the rattle was on that side of the engine.
By the looks of that bill, many of the things I mentioned have already been done. Someone maintained it reasonably well by the looks of it. The rattle when cold. Is it on the right or the left of the engine? Some other guy on here said his has always been like that and ignores it. It's your decision but I see no other reason to remove the manifold. Plugs, done. Inlet gaskets, done. Cam cover gaskets, done. I am told most of them rattle on startup and it isn't too much to worry about. You could ignore it, but don't quote me on that.
On the other hand, if you have a misfire on any of the right bank cylinders then it might be worth it, if the rattle was on that side of the engine.
Thanks Sportston
There is no misfire. I cannot tell If the engine rattle is right or left but it is booked to check out the VVT and the whining (alternator bearing?) Would they need to remove the manifold for either of these? Btw, my granddaughters live in Crieff. I see you are in Glasgow. Same country.
There is no misfire. I cannot tell If the engine rattle is right or left but it is booked to check out the VVT and the whining (alternator bearing?) Would they need to remove the manifold for either of these? Btw, my granddaughters live in Crieff. I see you are in Glasgow. Same country.
Cool! No need to remove the manifold for the alternator, but the VVT they might do, depending on where the noise comes from and how thorough their checking is.
To test the bearings before removal, you could release the tension on the serpentine belt. Spin the alternator shaft by hand and feel for any roughness and listen for any noise.
Another option is to remove the serpentine belt and then run the engine briefly. See if the noise is gone with the alternator not spinning. Don't run the engine for more than 30 seconds or so with the belt removed, as this also disables the water pump.
It wouldn't hurt to test the water pump, too, while you're in there. You'd get a similar noise if those bearings had failed. Important details about getting the correct type here:
To test the bearings before removal, you could release the tension on the serpentine belt. Spin the alternator shaft by hand and feel for any roughness and listen for any noise.
Another option is to remove the serpentine belt and then run the engine briefly. See if the noise is gone with the alternator not spinning. Don't run the engine for more than 30 seconds or so with the belt removed, as this also disables the water pump.
It wouldn't hurt to test the water pump, too, while you're in there. You'd get a similar noise if those bearings had failed. Important details about getting the correct type here:
05-26-2022, 01:25 PM
01' S-Type 3 Base (I think) Work to do
