I'm not actually certain on the DCCV swap. I' ve had it for 3 years and 60k miles. In that time out has not'ben changed. Last winter I was getting no heat. But the dccv tested good then. Usually when they go bad they stick open from what I have read.

So has anyone flushed the AC system on their S-type while doing the compressor? If so, please provide details on what you used and how much and how many times you flushed and what equipment you needed besides gauges, etc. I.e. did you do it through the drier line(s)? where did it drain fromand exit the system?

Thanks.

 

P.$. I will do the unplug and replace fuse test. That is good advise and cheap and easy to do. But I think I am hearing the clutch bearings rattling pretty lots now..... So I do think we have a diagnosis.

If you have input on flushing, amount of oil required, etc. I am all ears! (Well, all eyes really!)

 

I tried the 15A fuse before the first post. Out blew a fast as the 10A.

Thanks for the "unplug and test" idea. I'll do that tonight or tomorrow.

 

As I recall my replacement compressor came with 4 oz., so I added another 1 lb. 7 oz.

 

Be very careful about performing a flush. The S type I "think" has what's known as a dual pass evaporator. Most cars that have dual climate control do. That means you cannot get out all the material used as a flush because as the name says there are two "paths" the refrigerant or the flushing material can take going thru the evaporator. Regardless of how much pressure is used there is no guarantee that all of the evaporator will be empty after the flush.

So flushing is NOT recommended unless you have suffered a "Black Death" failure. This is a failure where the compressor comes apart internally and scatters debris throughout the entire A/C system. You will be able to tell if this happened when you open the system at the compressor. It will have a bunch of black looking crap in the A/C lines.

Also DO NOT use any stop leak or dye additives in your A/C system unless you just want to fix it quick and dump the car.

Finally if you are going to do it correctly and keep the car consider very strongly replacing the dryer when you open the system. The desiccant bag does get saturated over time. If you don’t replace it I always do a long vac down and hold it at least 24 hours to really get the system dry. The dryer you can get the system the better it will work.

Remember the commercial shops are under the time=money problem so they will spend a bare minimum of time vacuuming the system down.
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Rick,

That is the amount of refrigerant required, NOT the amount of PAC compressor oil required.

It sounds like your compressor came with 4oz of oil in it. The one I just put on my F250 had 6oz in it. But that system required 9oz of oil total. So I had to add 3 more ounces plus refrigerant.

Tbird6: I ordered a new compressor and the dryer unit. They are coming out of Dallas so they should be here by Friday. Hopefully I can get them swapped this weekend. I always pull a vacuum for at least 3-4 hours anyway. It's the best way to be certain there are no leaks in the system.

I'll check with a parts place on how much oil the system needs, unless someone here know for certain.