Hi guys, weve had an 03' S-type 3.0 for around 4 years now and its been fairly problem free up until recently. It has new plugs from a year ago, only gets premium fuel (although that is only 91 around here) and the oil gets changed regularly. However i will say that when my wife got the oil changed that they would stuff a cheapo fram air filter in the box. I noticed this about the same time the car began to act up. Even tho i checked the part # cross reference and it checked out i will say with god as my witness it DOES NOT FIT. So we got a different brand (wix - el cheapo too i know lol) that DOES fit and initially it did help. But now things have gotten worse if anything. The issues are as follows:

Restricted Performance shows on the display and seems to come and go for no obvious reason. The check engine light WILL NOT go off. Engine idle is very rough but runs (seemingly) fine at anything above idle. Car runs worse when cold. When i drove the car (she babies it around) i was horrified as it hit an invisible rev limiter (3,000-3,500) and absolutely refused to upshift until i completely got off the throttle. I found this only occured if i pushed the throttle beyond say 60-70%. Anything less and it acted normally. I assume this is "Restricted Performance" LOFL!

Anyway, as any logical modern car owner would do i decided to go to Auto Zone and have them do a free diagnostics scan on my ride right? Because (at least in my experience) all OBD II ports are shaped the same, you just need the correct software to interface with your particular vehicles computer, no biggie right..??.. NOPE!! The diagnostics port on our Jag seems to be oddly (more square) shaped than the normal OBD port im used to seeing. WTF is this about?? Am i not looking in the right spot?? Why is the plug i see for all listed 03' S-type diagnostic tools shaped differently than what my eyes see under the dash of the Jag??

Personally i think that the MAF or an o2 sensor is bad but finding out what diagnostics tool will interface with my car will go a long way in helping me find out what needs replacing. Thanks guys!

P.S. Lastly, are there any decent mods for the 3.0??

 

Forget mods. First you need to fix it. Besides, the 3.0 is hardly the car to mod.

You should have a standard OBD socket - they all have that. Work out why yours seems not to or take it to a dealer.

Chances are you have an air leak - many many posts on this forum so read them
Probably the PCV elbow - see the FAQs.

 

I'd be suspicious of your IMT O-rings as well.

 

So what is the square shaped port i see next to what would be the drivers right knee under the dash? Since this is obviously not the OBD port where is it located? The nearest dealer is over 2hrs away. Kinda the reason i got online.

 

Let me rephrase myself...i know this is the OBD port..but whay does it not fit the standard OBD plug in the douche at autozone has??

 

The guy at autozone is nuts..it's a standard port it just didn't hold his mouth right when plugging it in.

 

LOL scratch all of the above.... the first reply was right. Back side of the soft rubber connector for the PCV elbow has a hole. Still wanna figure out the OBD port deal tho. Thanks guys!!

 

I may make the autozone douche allow me to plug the tool in next time!

 

douche, plug?????? hmmmm......

Glad to see that you fingered her out in the right rubber hole!

BTW jagv8 the 2003 US versions don't have the vacuum elbows that go bad, only MY 2002 or older.

 

LOL - didn't recall that.

Sounds like someone's looking at the wrong port or it has a cover or just hasn't seen it IS the right shape.

These cars are standard OBD. Whether AZ guys say so or not

 

John what are you still doing up??? Go to sleep mannnn!

 

Thanks again guys! The car runs great with the hole patched up. Ordering a new part tomarrow! After spending some time contorted upside down in the drivers side floorboard i must admit that my initial thought that the port was a different shape was wrong. Im going to take the tool from the tool that works at auto zone and plug it in myself next time. The check engine light is still on but the car runs good as new. No more "restricted performance".

Yes i know the 3.0 is not a sporty engine. However, i would like to know if there are any mods available that will render a decent little punch. Put some bigger nuts in the sack ya know. What tuner/programmers are available for the 3.0 Jag? (if any)

Lastly, what do some of the bolt on S-type R's run at the track? Such as the one in the sigpic?

 

There are not much "bolt on" performance pieces for the 3.0.

I hate to say this Jet, but a simple search on "time slips" or such on the search feature will satisfy for lust for knowledge.

Do yourself a favor and purchase your own OBDII reader not just a scanner, kinda cheap for about $40 bucks for a useful tool.


Oh about the sig pic, I can't remember what the recently departed "Riski" was running. It was kinda fast though.....

 

I would use WIX over Fram anyday. WIX is a better product.
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AMEN Tbird!!!

"EZ"

 

Glad you fixed it. The SES light will go off after the P1000 test has run in most cases if there are no current issues.

As far as mods, the stock air box is the week link in the air pump we call an engine. Get a high flow intake/filter. That is about it.

Edit: Don't fall prey to those "performance chips" on eBay or anywhere else you find them. They are IAT or MAF piggy-backs that trick the ECU into thinking that more air, or colder air is flowing. Negligable gains if any, waist of money.

 

The SES should not be on even if the P1000 code is there. That's just whether readiness is set or not. If the issues are resolved and the codes have been cleared, then there should be NO check engine light.

If the trouble has been resolved, but the codes weren't cleared, then it takes 3 "good" trips (over 10 miles and a certain speed etc) to clear them from the ECU.

Take care,

George

 

Right, but if you had a code, fixed issue, the ecu still may hold that code till the p1000 runs again? Least that's what I've been told. Rid wire goes to + sign, that's about my extent of knowlege with electronics. All other info is from guys like you. lol

 

No.

P1000 and P1111 are "status" codes.

Basically, P1000 means that not all the monitors have been set to "ready" (basically not enough time / driving cycles) have passed since the codes were last cleared. When all the monitors have completed all their required drive cycles, and they are "ready" (for emissions testing), the P1000 will go away and will be replaced by P1111, REGARDLESS of the presence of other codes.

Basically the P1000 is a red flag that the car has had codes recently cleared.

Codes will be cleared when there are 3 good trips and the fault that triggered the code are no longer present.

Take care,

George

 

Ah, well that makes saince. Thx for clearing that up.