I posted several months ago and did some research when my wife's Jag suddenly became problematic. The car would jerk and hesitate at idle, the infamous restricted performance display would randomly appear, at anything above granny throttle you would hit a rev limiter at around 3500 rpm and the car would not shift until you got off the gas. We put new plugs in the car a year prior and all annual maintenance was up to date. After some help here, i discovered the PCV elbow that runs from the drivers side valve cover to the throttle body had a gaping hole melted in it. So we order the part and after around 2 weeks (i have discovered that getting Jaguar parts in the N.M. desert is like pulling lions teeth) i make the 30 second repair. The car runs noticeably better right off so i go have the codes deleted and drive it for roughly 20 miles before the check engine light comes on. So i immediately go back to the auto parts store and have the codes scanned and only got P0430 - is this not drivers side front o2 sensor?? Because that is what the guy at the auto parts store said. So we order a pair of $250 (a piece) o2 sensors from Jag and when they get here 2 weeks later, guess what, they are the wrong part. So my wife has to go on a trip that same weekend and i have my drag radials on the back of my car so i ask her what she thinks. She says because it just hesitates sometimes it will be ok. Reluctantly i agree but sure as $h!t she calls outside of Phoenix Az. saying it is having major problems. She makes it to the dealership and the tech working on her car says that he detects an ignition problem, a slight vacuum leak, and a cat failure. Long story short, $350 and a new #6 coil pack later she is back on the road. Now with her back home i mention the relief of being able to return the o2 sensors and she says "Well, i still need to replace them because the car still shakes at idle sometimes." Im thinking OMG when does it end!! Then i call the tech at the dealer back and he says "oh and BTW during a vacuum leak test i think it sounded like the o rings on the intake runners are leaking as well. And P0430 is cat failure not o2 failure."

From the labor perspective of things, these fixes (for me) are cake. From the financial perspective....well,...i'm kinda getting wore out guys. Even worse is the monster pain in the *** that acquiring genuine Jaguar parts out here has become. And it turns out they are not so cheap. I want to just cut the cats completely off but she wants to replace them. The parts guys at the dealer we had been going through in the DFW area was a douche, the list of reasons i want to trade this car in for grows daily. Right now i want to trade it in for an 09'ish Mercedes C300-350. Im personally wanting a C63 AMG to replace my car. Any thoughts or ideas?? I just feel like its time to get out before the repairs get too deep. She's too old and hit a few too many potholes in her 100 thousand miles of life. Time to trade er in for a new model.

 

And lastly, how many friggin posts do i have to make before i can put a pic of my car in my sig???

 

Actually you can do it considering you get passed 10 posts and a few months since your membership .
But hey signature is free for all lol I mean you can add it no matter how post you hit

 

Jet how many miles are on your vehicle?

Here is a thread, I did to a fellow members 2003 S type 3.0. Joel was having many issues, baiscally its a "tune up" at 90,000 miles (now close to 100,000). Disregard the transmission part and oil pan gasket. **Note I cleaned the MAF sensor but it was bad and needed replaced at a cost of $80.00. As you see the pricing is not all that bad on aftermarket parts. Also since you have replaced some of the parts already, the $ hit won't be as bad. If you can DIY you will save BIG bucks!

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...tenance-49309/

I think your CAT code is due to something upstream meaning your motor. I would disregard that for now.

 

jetblack. Go for the STR. Less problems and way more GO Juice (400 hp). An AMG 6.3 is nice looking, fast, but expensive to buy and more expensive than the STR to maintain. A 400 hp STR can be procured for much less $$$$ and made to move quick. My STR is beginning to cook the roads. Members here, including myself have been developing power producing parts and testing more agressive suspension components. Let us know your thoughts.

 

Hi jetblak6.1
Next time you have to order parts, try this outfit. Good prices and timely service.
Direct JPLV Porsche Parts.com
They are in Los Vegas...
Drive On!!...
Fast Freddie

 

Thanks for all the responses guys!

Regentv12 - thanks im workin on the sig now!

joycesjag - i have right at 109k miles on the odometer.

bfsgross - I love the S-type R and would not mind having one but cannot justify it from a performance standpoint. Make no mistake, i readily admit that the type R is a formidable adversary to the SRT8 from a performance perspective but not an "upgrade" per say. Out of the box the SRT8 and the type R are almost identical in a straight line. After mods, i dunno. I seem to see a slightly larger aftermarket for the 6.1 but i could be wrong on this one. The SRT has slightly more power but weighs around 150lbs more. The C63 is superior in every way. And considering that parts can be swapped from the SLS supercar for more power, and that it is the highest HP naturally aspirated motor to come in a production vehicle, need i say more? I certainly would not say that money is no object, but lets just put it this way, its gonna take alot to get me to WANT to drive away from a dealership without my SRT8 and no offense, but the type R just isnt enough to do it. Ive also been looking at used 05'ish E55 AMG's.

hafferf - thanks ill give em a call tomarrow.

 

As for the 3.0, im going to probably change all the o rings and gaskets on the intake manifold, and re-clean the maf. At the same time ill re-do spark plugs (since the one is under the intake) and pre cat o2 sensors, delete codes and go for another cruise. I guess we will go from there.?.?.

 

Agree, they are great and Nalley is too. Much much cheaper than a dealer or some others out there. Just make sure and ask for the board member discount.

BTW, I have been oogling the 2012 Challenger SRT8, but man it seems even some of those brand new cars have some serious build quality issues.

 

Such as?? The only thing new about the 12' Chally is the motor. The new 6.4 (392) that puts down 465 hp and tq. The 5 speed nag1 transmission is the same that put me in the 12's for the last 60 thousand miles without issue. The 6 speed manual tremec has had some clutch issues but thats with any stick sports car. The newer getrag rear seems to break halfshafts more often but other than that IDK?

 

If they're the right plugs and not due/overdue to be changed then they're almost the last thing to suspect.

 

Some of the 6.4 engines have been throwing repeated engine codes that the dealers have been unable to solve. Some have issues with the keyless door modules, some get stuck in first gear and it's nearly impossible to get it out, some have windows that randomly roll down on their own, fairly serious paint issues, sagging headliners, smart phone compatibility issues etc. I LOVE the looks of the car, but my Jag has been super reliable and it's paid for, so I'm having a hard time thinking about actually buying one.

#53 Engine Malfunction Light - Dodge Challenger Forum: Challenger & SRT8 Forums

 

Huh, no surprise though. Maybe a CANBUS communication issue with the engine and trans?? If you are serious about getting one id wait at least one more development year so they can work the bugs out. This is normal in most mass produced cars in their initial model year. As for the headliner sagging - that is a MOPAR quality issue that afflicts even my car. The windows don't randomly activate but im aware of the complaint your describing. IDK about paint issues? They haven't come out with any really NEW colors and statistically, black does the worst. My car is black and even after 5 years of Texas sun i can remove badges and have no discoloration issues. Clearcoat is holding up fine etc. As far as the smartphone thing goes...im not really into the phones and bluetooth and ipods and junk so IDK your probably right.
The 98' Z28's and Trans Am's were the ones to avoid because they had the LS1 for the first time that year. The 05' SRT8's had some brake piston and chrome flake issues for its first year. The new Camaro SS had issues with a ground cable touching the exhaust when they initially came out. Growing pains - im sure even new Jags have em if we like to admit it or not. Im just not keen to any.

 

UPDATE: Fixed the JAG!!

By purchasing a black 2009 Mercedes E350 lmfao!!! The Jag is still around though. My sis just got her license and needed a car so now she has it. Unfortunately that means i still get to work on it.

So i replaced the front o2 sensors and had the codes deleted. Drove the car 30 miles and had no check engine light trigger. My sis took the car to the movies afterward and by the time she came back home it was on again. My initial thought is that it is the incomplete systems test code but she says that it still chokes and hesitates at idle on occasion so my next order of business is to gut the cats to diagnose if that really is part of the problem. Leaving the mufflers on obviously so im hoping it wont sound too bad. I know that the CEL will stay on for rear o2 cat failure then but im really trying to find what is causing the poor idle. If it runs better then we could replace with new. Im ordering some new intake gaskets/o-rings etc if this doesn't work. Its a process of elimination that starts from the cheapest remedy and work our way up. I will have the codes read tomarrow and report back.

 

there are several ways to check for bad cats and none involve gutting cats(what if it not the problem and you gut good cats)
1 temp gun to check for higher than normal heat and cold on the case.
2 vacuum gauge, slowly bring up the rpm and vacuum should drop progressivly, if it goes up instead of down, theyre plugged
3 back pressure gauge plumbed in place of the upstream 02 sensor. as you bring up the idle the back pressure should not go over 1psi

 

I figured that with nearly 110,000 miles, and considering that i live in a state/county that does not perform emissions tests, that it could only do good but since you mention it...

1. I have an infrared temp gun - what are normal temps? There is a good 30-40% of the surface area of both cats that you cannot access even still though simply due to location.

2. Where do you plumb the vacuum gauge?

3. I don't have a back pressure gauge