Hi folks. Last Monday my 03 STR was dynoed at ICS Performance in Stamford Connecticut. The owner, George, took a vid with his I-Phone while she went through four runs. Though she was hot from the 83 degree 45 mile trip to the dyno, she put out just under 360 rwhp. The whine and screaming exhaust was amazing when heard from outside the car. Just prior to the dyno run they placed two bags of ice on the charge coolers for only ten minutes because I arrived at 1:00 pm and had to drive 45 miles back to see patients at 2:30 ( I ended up 30 minutes late). The tech said if the motor hadn't experienced heat soak he estimated it would have developed nearly 380 rwhp (approx. 470 chp). Noted was a flattening of midrange power which they attributed to heatsoak and lack of an ECU tune. Naturally they advised and offered a more efficient intercooler, ECU tune etc. for big $$$.
After the last dyno run I had to bolt so I paid the shop owner the $125, and he assured me he would e-mail me the results and video. It's now one week since the day and I have yet to recieve the dyno sheet and vid. Each day I called ICS, and either George or one of his techs assured me I'de recieve the information plus vid but to no avail. The last phone call with ICS ended with the tech saying that George's wife will obtain and e-mail the dyno results and vid. Today I left an e-mail with the shop and pray they'll make good on their word.
If I don't recieve the dyno info. plus video tomorrow I'll contact my bank to see if they'll extract the $125 cost of the dyno run from ICS's account and credit it back to my card. ICS's dissing me left me without a pleasant experience. I'll not return for another run after an ECU tune.
Regardless, I'm very pleased how the car runs in 70 degree and below temps. She'll run pretty good in 80 degrees if exercising a light pedal.

 

What all is done to your car? And tsk tsk on being late back to see patients :P

 

Hi Mike. I performed all that I advised for you to do prior to the Texas Mile. The owner of ICS said he has a friend in the UK who tunes Jags and he's asking him if he can send him software. I asked him if it was Arden. He said no, but I feel he's full of poop.

 

Ah ok! Damn that is good then!

 

When you eventually open up your exhaust and pop on a 3 lb. pulley you'll feel a much noticeable increase in low end to midrange torque. The last mod was the "Mafioso" air intake elbow. This alone made a noticeable difference in throttle response and power throughout the power curve. I'm almost certain that the mods necessitate an ECU tune. There is some flattening of the power curve begining in the midrange. Some will argue that this is due to heatsoak at this juncture.

 

Not sure what mods you have, but spinning the eaton faster will also generate MUCH more heat and there the eaton will loose a lot of efficiency. I think that 360 rwhp (is about 430 bhp with 17% drive train loss), is not a bad figure at all (pending on what you had of course without mods). Of course there are many tricks you can do do bump up the power on the dyno (like the ice one on the intercooler), but what counts is what you can get on the street. The temperature is also partly corrected in the SAE correction.

 

some sort of IC fluid chilling is needed at this point...

 

Hey Avos! The car has: K&N drop in air filter, "Mafioso" air intake elbow, low temp thermostat, 3 lb pulley, and manifold down exhaust mod. When outdoor temps are cool she runs very strong, noticeably stronger than stock and the charge coolers feel very warm to the touch. The day of the dyno run they felt hot. Avos, any headway with your twin screw development? I was definitely confused on calculating crank hp. Mafioso...Git us a Chiller!

 

Maybe a higher flow SC coolant pump? First compare the temp at intercooler with the SC radiator, maybe

 

Best is to let the engine run idle when it is on the dyno, and give it some time to cool down, but the intercoolers will always be very warm (and hot when you leave the car standing for a couple minutes). The coolant fan is probably running during idle and that will cool down the intercooler circuit, (I actually turn the airco on, so the fans will run stronger). Normally the intercooler circuit coolant is about 60F higher than the actual outside temp. Of course once you floor it, you will heat up the system pretty quickly, and if my calculations where right, with the 3lb pulley the delta temp (after SC, before IC) is about 300F higher then outside air temp, and as you are pumping more air, you are putting more BTU/Heat into the system. The intercooler circuit is just not build for these extra amounts of heat, so just putting in a quicker pump will not make the difference. The killer chiller might be interesting in combination with a large reservoir (that acts as a buffer), but I have no direct experience with this system myself.

PS Am behind on the STR twin-screw project, so don’t hold your breath there.

 

Thanks jagv8 and Avos. Is there a larger intercooler available? I thought I saw one offered by Eurotoys? Will a larger intercooler fit? I've got this feeling Mafioso is broiling up a Chiller system in his head.

 

I'd measure the temps of ICs and the SC radiator (it's the front one) as a start. If there's not much temp drop, higher flow rates won't help will they? I think avos is saying there isn't much drop but I'm very surprised if that is actually true.

Maybe look for a better way to get the hot air out of the engine bay. Hood louvres (sp?) maybe?

 

@jagv8,
I actually meant that with normal driving the intercooler coolant will be about 60F warmer then ambient, so when I am going to the dyno, I always try to get to that temp level before I do a run which I check with a IR gun. After a run, there is again some cool down period needed to get to the same level as you started with, as obviously the system had to absorb a large amount of heat.
This is the same as when running on the street, a couple of short power runs will add massive heat, and reduce you power drastically, and it will take a while driving before the heat is out again.
The discharged heat by having the SC spin faster is about 30% more, and as the flow has also increased possibly 16% more, you get to almost 50% more heat load that must be removed. I am sure that someone can calculate this better, but I guess this gives an idea.
So a 10% faster pump will not help that much, and not sure what you can do with the radiator on a STR, but a lot of small steps make one larger.
Now if you could make that little device that can give CAN bus commands to the fan controller, that would be a good step forward on top of the other possibilities ;-)

 

Since were on the subject of the intercooler issues I have been reading about here in preparations of my mods I have some questions. I have modded an E55 in the past and it like the R it suffers from the same heat soak issues. We all know simply turning up the boost just amplifies the problem and has to cause timing to be pulled with the IAT I have read about. In the past I have combated this with either meth injection or cryo sprayers on the heat exchanger (or running meth fuel in race cars but that is a little extreme here LOL).

I have read a post or two about people who have set up meth injection but not read any results? Anyone tried the DEI cryo systems? Or better yet maybe an intake air chiller and a heat exchanger spray bar setup in tandem on either a boost actuated switch or a WOT switch? Has anyone data logged timing and temps on the backside of the core during a run?

I know on the E55 an uprated pump helps but if the system has adequate flow already seams the only choices are to lower IA temps or charge air temps or both. It seams unreasonable for most to swap out the whole core or go air to air etc... Seams no reliable rather simple more efficient blower swap is currently available (meaning fabrication and blazing the trail on your own). In my case adding 50-75hp that would not heat soak and be random would be completely acceptable. I think current bolt ons and some effective cooling adding hp and safety would be enough for me. Maybe some nitrous for rare occasions

 

This is how a charge cooler should look, cold to the touch.

 

Aha. I figured I must've misunderstood. Thanks for clearing it up.
Will the hoses etc cope with a much faster (say twice or 4 times) pump I wonder.....
It's on my list

If I command the fan on full will it be OK (apart from the waste of power)? Won't burn out or anything bad?

I'm thinking it would be nice to have the fan on full but the a/c off.

 

JagV8, The new version of Autoengiuty does have the capablility to command and alter the fan circuit. from what Im gathering.

So far from what I have been able to connect it should have functionality to command and alter the BCM, and certain things in the PCM how much Im not sure yet.

 

Jaxkr, is that a "Chiller" system or something you run?

 

Avos, I run a low temperature thermostat. Does this help any? When doing highway cruising on 70 to 80 days she feels to have full power. I guess this is due to the continuous high flow of air shedding off heat?

 

I don't see how it can help shed heat from the SC coolers. How?