Bought a 05 S-type V6 with 120,000 miles this year in February and it worked great. Moved multiple States away in August and made 2 round trips with it totaling 1,600 miles. Since then I've gotten multiple OBD codes and been in Limp mode once. The codes are:

Misfires (the left bank):

• P0300
• P0301
• P0303
• P0305

Then these:

• P1313
• P1316
• P1111

I had the oil changed before the first trip at Midas. The car is still drivable or at least at 30mph. The exhaust sounds rougher and more bellowy than before. I'm at bit of a loss on what could be causing all these codes, any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Through more investigation I now realize p1111 is a generic code, 1316 is emission and 1313 is catalyst damage fault bank 1. So my question now is do I replace my coils and spark plugs?

 

More useful: look at LTFTs (see the many many threads).

Have you changed IMT valve o-rings?

 

I haven't. I'll check them too see if they're leakong

 

It seems you have already realized to concentrate on the P0301/03/05 codes. I'd call those primary codes (a term I made up), all related to misfires on one cylinder bank. The other ones are secondary codes (again made up), caused by whatever situation set the primary codes in the first place. Think of it as having your blood pressure spiking high because you're in pain from a broken leg. I suppose you could take blood pressure meds to lower the reading, but a more comprehensive fix would be mending your broken bones.

So tell us, is your Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) flashing? If so, that is a bad sign. It means there is too much unburnt fuel in the exhaust, causing your catalytic converter(s) to overheat. Don't drive like that, as cats are expensive.

Before we continue, you will have to indulge me getting up on my Misfire Soapbox[tm]. Yeah, it's the price you pay for free advice over the internet:

(Forum regulars, you've already heard this rant and have time to step out for a cigarette.)

If the computer has set a misfire code, please be aware "misfire" wasn't the best terminology that could have been used. Misfire sounds like an ignition problem, at least to me, meaning the fuel and compression were there, but for whatever reason, the required spark was missing or weak. This might lead an aspiring mechanic to troubleshoot the daylights out of a perfectly good ignition system. I do not care to discuss how I know this.

In OBD-speak, misfire simply means one or more cylinders is putting out low power compared to the others. You can read more details of the misfire monitor at the link listed below. Pretty much anything affecting the output of a cylinder can set a misfire code. It can be low compression. It can be a valve not opening fully. It could be a clogged fuel injector. And yes, it could be an ignition problem, too, but don't overlook the other possibilities, too.

[/soapbox mode off]


Read this Jaguar guide describing the misfire monitor, on pages OBD.22 and .23:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Trai...20-%202000.pdf


Specifically, during an event that causes the MIL to flash, this is what happens:

"These systems will also inhibit fuel injection on up to two misfiring cylinders to prevent catalyst damage."

The fuel supply to the suspect cylinders is shut down, but not the ignition. You mentioned your exhaust sounded rougher, so this may be what was happening.

When the misfires are isolated to all cylinders in one bank, one common problem (other than vacuum leaks) is oil or rainwater in the spark plug well. The plugs all share a common well, so it's possible to short out all plugs on that side.

Oil will come from a leaky cam cover gasket, a fairly easy fix. Water can come from rainwater running under the hood and pooling in the wrong place, also fairly common. It's easy enough to check. Simply pull a coil on the suspect bank and see if it's wet with oil or water. I think the engine tilts back slightly, so look at the aft plug first.

I've had the cam cover gasket fail on one side on my '02 V6, filling up the well with oil. I had the three misfire codes, the flashing MIL, and a related converter overheat code. Luckily I caught it in time before any permanent damage was done. I didn't even have to replace the coils. Fixing the oil leak and spraying the coils with electronic cleaner was all that was needed.

If you see no contamination on the coils, you may as well change the plugs while you're there. It's not likely that three plugs would fail at the same time, though.

After that, it's probably time to check fuel trims to rule out any vacuum leaks. Courtesy of our own Gus, this page has links to two very good articles on the subject:

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

Please keep us posted. We like to help, and learn what tips do and don't work. Too many times we offer advice but never hear back what was the final fix.

 

Great advice so far on this thread. Also check for an exhaust leak on Bank 1.

Most likely oil fouling of the Bank 1 coil units due to cam cover gasket and spark plug boss seal leaking oil into spark plug wells. Catalytic converter on Bank 1 must be replaced and the misfires corrected to avoid further DTCs and catalyst damage.

 

If you do not have documentation that your two yellow-colored IMT valve O-rings on these 3.0 engines have already been replaced, I would do that as a first step. The factory O-rings all eventually fail, allow air and oil leaks, and tend to throw codes similar to what you are seeing. The new-and-improved green-colored IMT valve O-rings are thicker and better made, and I have not heard of them failing. The part number is C2S40669. You will need two of them....

 

There are 2 DIY's in the How To section on the IMT's. One is a simple check and the 2nd is two ways of replacing, both with pics!
​​​​​

 

Firstly, thank you for the awesome reponses. Secondly;

It doesn't, it's been solid Amber. Reading pages OBD.22 and OBD.23 it seems to be a Type B misfire.

I did check for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner but didn't have enough time to remove the intake manifold and check the hose underneath by cylinder 1. I haven't checked the IMT valve rings yet but I will today.

 

Re: The IMT O-rings. Doesn't a vacuum leak there tend to only cause P0171 and/or P0174 lean codes? It's still a good idea to replace them to be sure, but I was thinking they typically aren't the root cause for multiple misfire codes all on one bank.

Popcorn, anybody?

 

Traditional oil, Jiffy Pop or hot air popcorn?

You are correct once again. My unprofessional opinion is that the OP will be removing intake plenum (along with IMT valves) to replace his spark plug well bosses and valve cover gaskets. While he is in there it would be a good time to replace the sparkies, and the associated gaskets (seals) with the plenum and lower intake manifold. BTW, the lower IMT valve when removed from plenum will yield about a half of cup or so of motor oil.

I did all above with around 50,000 on our S Type IIRC. That was many, many years ago and I haven't had issue 1 since. FelPro makes an inexpensive kit, surprisingly this is one aftermarket that or Jaguars don't mind!

 

Finally back, it took longer than expected to get my IMT rings delivered.

I've changed out the IMT ring. they were green but there was about 1/4 cup oil sitting in the lower IMT well.

changing spark plugs at the moment, I ***'d up and left my spark plug socket amongst most of my hand tool in Kansas so now I'm waiting till Auto Zone opens in two hours to pick one up.

Didn't notice this till I removed the the left bank coils, no oil but there is some debre in cylinder 1.

will post results after I struggle to put this thing back together.

 

Interesting. What kind of debris? There isn't much opportunity for anything to get in there. Pieces of the coil? Coked oil?

 

Psst....eagle-eyed Karl....Sounds like he hasn't pulled the plugs yet, only coils...so my interpretation would be that he's spied debris in the #1 plug well - likely corrosion bits or a small rodent's acorn leavings...

 

Aholbro hit it on the head with corrosion.

Left a door open for a few hours, changed the spark plugs, fitted everything back together and started her up. Idles at 1000RPM apposed to 700RPM from before and the exhaust sounds more mellow. drove her out the garage, parked and went inside for a shower.

Came out for a test drive and the battery went dead. Won't jump, battery won't charge. Went out and bought a new battery which is good cause the old one looks to be 9 years old. Will replace battery later, too tired to do it now.

Photos of the old IMT rings and spark plugs below Jaguar S-Type v6 Base IMTupper/lower O-ring
Jaguar S-Type v6 Base IMTupper/lower O-ring
Jaguar S-Type v6 Base right bank spark plugs
Jaguar S-Type v6 Base left bank spark plugs

 

Looks like the original spark plugs were still installed. The IMT o-rings are the later 'green' version, but since you had them out, good idea to replace them.

A failing or weak battery can cause all types of issues, so when you have the new battery installed the performance of the vehicle may improve.

 

1000rpm is way too high so if it persists check OBD (codes, pending codes, live data).

 

Karl, my apologies for using RIck's new name for us. I have no defense, save it was early. When I read your post, even though I read "pieces of coil" my brain processed "pieces of ring" and of course, "coked oil" could be either internal to the cyl or in the plug-well. So somehow I inferred you were talking about inside the cylinder rather than the plug wells. Ah well, we all know it's Kyuu's fault, anyway, since he said "in cyl #1!"

Please forgive "eagle-eyed Zane"
Kyuu, thanks for posting some results. Was your cam cover starting to corrode? So far, I'm the only one that will admit it....
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...e-x300-167613/

 

No problemo, no offense taken. I just considered the source and realized you were blatantly and embarrassingly wrong again. I wasn't about to broadcast it and leave you all red-faced in front of everybody. Nope, not gonna do it. That's just the kind of guy I am...

Why, let me be the first to come to your defense and state unequivocally that this is FAR from the biggest mistake you've ever made. As always, it has been an honor to defend your good name.

 

Looking at the pics, I would say those spark plugs were certainly done. The electrodes? Hard to tell. The porcelain insulators are what drew my attention. Note some of them had rusty coloring between the green ribs, the part that fits inside the coil boot. Any kind of debris there is going to create an unwanted side path to ground, and limit the plugs' ability to fire.

New plugs, of course, will fix MOST of that. But from the Day Late and Dollar Short Department, you've probably still got some of that crud inside the coil boots. The fix there is to clean the inside of the boots with some electronic spray. I'd doublecheck the porcelain of the new plugs, too. The problem is you've already reassembled the engine. This little bit of crud may not be a big problem, but if the misfire issue still lingers, unfortunately you may have to get back in to make sure everything is nice and clean.