Hello everyone

I just bought a 2000 Jaguar S-Type 3.0 automatic.
The guy I bought it from told me it needed a water pump to be replaced.
I replaced water pumps before no biggie right?

So I bought it took it home I replaced the water pump but it was weird cause the water pump looked ok to me, but I replaced it anyways.
I threw everything back together and I thought I was done and I was gonna enjoy my victory.

I started the car and it started overheating so I changed the thermostat and the electronic heater valve along with some coolant hoses that stupid jaguar updated.

Ok so after replacing the water pump, coolant heater valve and thermostat the car runs now, I actually thought I had fixed it until I drove it for about 10 minutes, it starts to overheat but little by little,the fans run high but as soon as I turn the heater on high it cools down to normal and even the fans go off.

If i turn the ac it does overheat a bit faster,
If I run the car with no heater and no ac running the car overheats just one or two lines past the middle but it stays there.

I already tried to bleed the system through the top bleeding valve. and no luck.

I can run the car all day and keep it on normal temperature only if i turn the heater on high but its already 70 degrees outside and its just not funny lol

This thing just has become really annoying.

Please help........

Thank You.

 

Bleed valve on coolant bottle.

 

Is the MIL on and do you have any codes stored? If so, post them to this forum.

Is the thermostat correct for the vehicle and installed in the correct direction within the housing?

Refer to JTIS, which is a free download from the 'sticky' section of this forum, for correct coolant system bleeding procedure and coolant strength. Care must be taken when working on the plastic coolant system fittings as they can become brittle with age and break quite easily.

 

As said, you have air in it.

The USA cars have a bleeder arrangement, we RHD do not, as the system self bleeds and is good at it.

If you are not getting coolant out of the bleed screw/s then that must be fixed, first and foremost.

The actual radiator may be partially blocked internally, and/or externally, which sits nicely with the heater core actually controlling engine temps, which is a very old school method of diagnosis for radiator issues.

I still reckon air is the culprit.

 

It does have two codes P0171 & P0174
but I think that happened when I replaced the spark plugs and I left a leak on the intake when I took it off. Im going to re set it again with the new gasket this time.

I have a feeling its air too cause of the way its acting but I drove the car for 5 days straight about 30 miles every day, hoping the system will self bleed but it hasnt either.

The thermostat I already replaced twice thinking I got a faulty thermostat the first time.
Yes hoses are really brittle already broke 2 coolant hoses that I replaced and two vacuum hoses that I replaced already. they didnt even break they just crumbled like a cookie.

So the way I was bleeding the system was by getting the car to normal temperature I would run the heater at windshield at max.
the heater works just fine. and the ac too.
once the thermostat opens which I felt by touching the lower hose.
It take about 10 minutes for the fans to come on.
So I used the bleeder valve hose and it sprays as I unscrew it but oonly if its really hot.

What am I doing wrong ?

these jaguars are something else lol my respect lol

I've gotten so mad at the car is not even funny, but were friends now lol.

 

There are 2 purge screws, one on the coolant reservoir and the other on near the firewall on your model year vehicle.

Side bar,
If you are pulling plenum off again, you might as well change the lower intake seals too. Also if it were my vehicle, I would change out the cam cover seals at the same time.

FelPro makes all the aftermarket seals needed.