2000 Jaguar S-type 4.0 shudder on idle
#1
2000 Jaguar S-type 4.0 shudder on idle
Hey guys,
Before anyone asked, I have replaced all spark plugs and coils, but before I explain any more let me give you the history.....
Bought Jag, passed safety and emissions - in Ontario. Found that the dealer didn't align the wheels, so they wore extremely fast, but before that I changed the top two tensioners, but unbeknownst to me, there was a ticking time bomb on the car. On the way to get my son from school, it started to make a god awful racket, pulled over and took to garage.
They take it apart (they are pretty engines when you get inside them) and they say its the Variable Valve Timing unit wasn't working so it was "off". Ok, how much will it be to replace - $2200 - Damn. Ordered the parts from Jaguar in England -takes 2 weeks - they sent the wrong things - sent back and proper parts sent - another 2 weeks, they put it all back together. I get a call saying that it should be good to go and that I need new tires because the alignment was off because the ball joints and rear stabilizer bars were shot, so added tires onto the cost and wait until tomorrow.
Tomorrow comes and I get a call saying they need to speak with me. Apparently they got it all back together and then tried to start it to sound the exact same as when I brought it in. They ripped into it again and found that the exhaust cam on passenger side was cracked.
I purchased the top of another 4.0 S-type from a wreckers for $500 which I didn't think was too bad and bought all the gaskets - again. Took it to them and installed the items needed, but the time frame for that was a year or so because at this point I already spent $2200 + purchase price on a car I can't drive, and they said they would store it for me.
Short story, finally got it back, it wasn't stored properly - was outside for 1+year, and I'm fixing all the things that are because of that "sitting".
In the past 3 months Ive replaced:
1) The Battery
2) All Spark Plugs
3) All Coils
4) Plastic shift mechanism to Metal part
5) Cleaned up the leak in the trunk
6) Fixed leak into engine
7) Fixed Leak from sunroof into back pillar
8) Replaced power steering fluid
9) Replaced one of the front ball joints (the other side looked new and no play)
10) Replaced rear brakes and rotors and sway bar links
11) Replaced all bulbs
12) Replaced the CATS and Rear Computer in the trunk of the car
13) Replaced power steering fluid and oil & coolant were changed by garage, there is no refrigerant left in the car so that will need to be done
What still has to be done:
-The DCCV needs to be replaced
-Trans fluid needs to be changed
- new refrigerant for ac system after dccv
However my concern now is the car has a shudder when I idle. It's subtle, but I can feel it. It doesn't seem to show itself when driving or accelerating, only at idle. I purchased a OBD2 to try and check fuel trims, but it was defective - I have a better one en route to me now which will hopefully work so I can test fuel trims, but knowing that I replaced all spark plugs and coils, any idea what this might be?
My only thoughts are:
1) fuel filter
2) clogged injectors?
3) computer needs to be calibrated
4) they aligned the cam wrong?
Any help would be appreciated
PS have pics of broken cam if you don't believe me haha
Before anyone asked, I have replaced all spark plugs and coils, but before I explain any more let me give you the history.....
Bought Jag, passed safety and emissions - in Ontario. Found that the dealer didn't align the wheels, so they wore extremely fast, but before that I changed the top two tensioners, but unbeknownst to me, there was a ticking time bomb on the car. On the way to get my son from school, it started to make a god awful racket, pulled over and took to garage.
They take it apart (they are pretty engines when you get inside them) and they say its the Variable Valve Timing unit wasn't working so it was "off". Ok, how much will it be to replace - $2200 - Damn. Ordered the parts from Jaguar in England -takes 2 weeks - they sent the wrong things - sent back and proper parts sent - another 2 weeks, they put it all back together. I get a call saying that it should be good to go and that I need new tires because the alignment was off because the ball joints and rear stabilizer bars were shot, so added tires onto the cost and wait until tomorrow.
Tomorrow comes and I get a call saying they need to speak with me. Apparently they got it all back together and then tried to start it to sound the exact same as when I brought it in. They ripped into it again and found that the exhaust cam on passenger side was cracked.
I purchased the top of another 4.0 S-type from a wreckers for $500 which I didn't think was too bad and bought all the gaskets - again. Took it to them and installed the items needed, but the time frame for that was a year or so because at this point I already spent $2200 + purchase price on a car I can't drive, and they said they would store it for me.
Short story, finally got it back, it wasn't stored properly - was outside for 1+year, and I'm fixing all the things that are because of that "sitting".
In the past 3 months Ive replaced:
1) The Battery
2) All Spark Plugs
3) All Coils
4) Plastic shift mechanism to Metal part
5) Cleaned up the leak in the trunk
6) Fixed leak into engine
7) Fixed Leak from sunroof into back pillar
8) Replaced power steering fluid
9) Replaced one of the front ball joints (the other side looked new and no play)
10) Replaced rear brakes and rotors and sway bar links
11) Replaced all bulbs
12) Replaced the CATS and Rear Computer in the trunk of the car
13) Replaced power steering fluid and oil & coolant were changed by garage, there is no refrigerant left in the car so that will need to be done
What still has to be done:
-The DCCV needs to be replaced
-Trans fluid needs to be changed
- new refrigerant for ac system after dccv
However my concern now is the car has a shudder when I idle. It's subtle, but I can feel it. It doesn't seem to show itself when driving or accelerating, only at idle. I purchased a OBD2 to try and check fuel trims, but it was defective - I have a better one en route to me now which will hopefully work so I can test fuel trims, but knowing that I replaced all spark plugs and coils, any idea what this might be?
My only thoughts are:
1) fuel filter
2) clogged injectors?
3) computer needs to be calibrated
4) they aligned the cam wrong?
Any help would be appreciated
PS have pics of broken cam if you don't believe me haha
#2
#4
Alright so still waiting on the OBD2 (waiting on customs booo), but I did find out some new information.
Filled tank with premium, also added Lucas Oil Deep Clean Fuel System Cleaner (no harm right?) and went for a drive in the country. When it started it hesitated/shuddered quite a bit at idle. After it got heated up, it was shuddering quite a bit less and by the end of the drive it wasn't shuddering at all.
I think you might be onto something with the air leak, and the temp allows things to expand and fill the gap. Now I need to try and find it haha
Filled tank with premium, also added Lucas Oil Deep Clean Fuel System Cleaner (no harm right?) and went for a drive in the country. When it started it hesitated/shuddered quite a bit at idle. After it got heated up, it was shuddering quite a bit less and by the end of the drive it wasn't shuddering at all.
I think you might be onto something with the air leak, and the temp allows things to expand and fill the gap. Now I need to try and find it haha
#5
Update: Tried finding any leaks via the carb cleaner method, nothing found. Also took off the brace on the passengers side below the throttle body, and pushed the plugs down (clips are broken) on the injectors. Didn't help and can hear the injectors firing fine.
I guess I am waiting for that OBD2 :\
I guess I am waiting for that OBD2 :\
#6
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#7
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#8
#10
New piece of information, only happens when the engine isn't warmed up. And also reran for codes and no fault from the O2 sensor once it's warmed.
From what I understand then, the idle shouldn't be caused by the O2 sensor since it's not used until the engine has reached operating temperature.
I also cleaned the idle air control, no change. Ugh
From what I understand then, the idle shouldn't be caused by the O2 sensor since it's not used until the engine has reached operating temperature.
I also cleaned the idle air control, no change. Ugh
Last edited by Angrycanuck; 08-27-2016 at 03:36 PM.
#11
New piece of information, only happens when the engine isn't warmed up. And also reran for codes and no fault from the O2 sensor once it's warmed.
From what I understand then, the idle shouldn't be caused by the O2 sensor since it's not used until the engine has reached operating temperature.
I also cleaned the idle air control, no change. Ugh
From what I understand then, the idle shouldn't be caused by the O2 sensor since it's not used until the engine has reached operating temperature.
I also cleaned the idle air control, no change. Ugh
#12
Alright, so I have a Cop tester on order, because the ford dealership near me wouldn't even touch the car. I also had to buy new lug nuts because when I tried to get to the fuel filter (driver side wheel well) two of the nuts spun and spun haha.
I will be changing the fuel filter this week, and I've been testing more on car while I wait for things to arrive.
1) The shutter calms down to almost nothing after 10-15 minutes of driving. However if I have the car in park and then let off the brake and let it coast, it jerks forward until I give it gas.
2) My intake seems to be making a strange noise that I never heard before. A hum of some sorts when I have the key to ACC.
Not sure if that should be happening or not (and sorry for the train haha).
I also found out that the garage that fixed the Jag, sin't really tighten down the hoses properly. As ai found leaking coolant from an intake hose after running the engine hard to see if switching the coils helped with performance. I'm not worried that my shudder issue could be because of a bad gasket/mis torque of the head etc
I'll update after I find out more
I will be changing the fuel filter this week, and I've been testing more on car while I wait for things to arrive.
1) The shutter calms down to almost nothing after 10-15 minutes of driving. However if I have the car in park and then let off the brake and let it coast, it jerks forward until I give it gas.
2) My intake seems to be making a strange noise that I never heard before. A hum of some sorts when I have the key to ACC.
I also found out that the garage that fixed the Jag, sin't really tighten down the hoses properly. As ai found leaking coolant from an intake hose after running the engine hard to see if switching the coils helped with performance. I'm not worried that my shudder issue could be because of a bad gasket/mis torque of the head etc
I'll update after I find out more
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