2000 S-Type 3.0 - A/C Compressor Clutch No audible click??
#1
2000 S-Type 3.0 - A/C Compressor Clutch No audible click??
Hello all,
Had a small front end collision a few weeks back - just a broken number plate and bumper paint scuff.
The interesting thing is i've noticed on pressing the "A/C button" - clutch no longer engages with audible "click".
Is there a common reason for compressor to "give up". I'm almost certain the accident was the cause.
Could this small impact have damaged a sensor - wiring?
I know the ambient temp sensor is within impact zone.
Been under the vehicle and compressor turning smoothly by hand.
Much appreciated.
Leonard.
Had a small front end collision a few weeks back - just a broken number plate and bumper paint scuff.
The interesting thing is i've noticed on pressing the "A/C button" - clutch no longer engages with audible "click".
Is there a common reason for compressor to "give up". I'm almost certain the accident was the cause.
Could this small impact have damaged a sensor - wiring?
I know the ambient temp sensor is within impact zone.
Been under the vehicle and compressor turning smoothly by hand.
Much appreciated.
Leonard.
#5
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Leonard_85 (08-16-2013)
#6
#7
The following users liked this post:
Leonard_85 (08-16-2013)
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#8
#9
Typically, if there is dye in the system, it is normally fluorescent green/yellow to make a leak easier to spot or just oily residual around where a leak may be. You can replace the condenser, but you would also want to replace the receiver/dryer at the same time and then have it evacuated and recharged. I would be sure before throwing parts at it.
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#12
Most likely; there's nothing else in that area that will leak anything oily. I'm assuming that bracket holds the condenser? The condenser probably got pushed into it and leaked from there. If you aren't 100% sure, I'd stop by a shop and get another opinion as its hard to be certain from a picture.
#13
Yes it's on the upper right hand corner of the condenser...i'm guessing the crack only needs to be a gnat's whisker?
This all came to light after having the system re-gassed in an attempt to remove the desert-breeze through the cabin.
I don't understand how the mechanic failed to detect the leak as he re-charged the system...i'm assuming there's a simple answer to that involving the word shoddy?
Thanks,
This all came to light after having the system re-gassed in an attempt to remove the desert-breeze through the cabin.
I don't understand how the mechanic failed to detect the leak as he re-charged the system...i'm assuming there's a simple answer to that involving the word shoddy?
Thanks,
#14
#15
The reason he did not find it is just the normal time limits a commercial garage has. From the looks of your picture I think you have a very small leak. If you just evacuated and charged the system in 30 minutes you probably would have a working A/C system... for a while.
Have them check that area with the Freon sniffer. They might find it.
No repairs to a condenser. Just replace it.
Did your A/C work after he recharged it?
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Have them check that area with the Freon sniffer. They might find it.
No repairs to a condenser. Just replace it.
Did your A/C work after he recharged it?
.
.
.
#16
Well I noticed the compressor wasn't engaging a day or two after the garage visit as it began to take my focus. I'm not sure if the compressor worked on collection, if so for a short while.
The car went into garage early morning (not cooked by the sun)...it did feel cool but after sitting on drive, within 4-5 hours it was back to the sahara desert and that faint "hissing" sound from vent area which has completely gone now.
I was hoping to diagnose this all myself as the garages here are not to be trusted, one bad experience after another.
The car went into garage early morning (not cooked by the sun)...it did feel cool but after sitting on drive, within 4-5 hours it was back to the sahara desert and that faint "hissing" sound from vent area which has completely gone now.
I was hoping to diagnose this all myself as the garages here are not to be trusted, one bad experience after another.
#17
Some ways to DIY diagnose:
get a set of a/c gauges - not too expensive - and check pressures
and/or
get a Mongoose JLR and read the HiLo pressure switch (er, I think it can do it, but someone might chime in and confirm)
and/or
figure where the HiLo wiring goes and use a meter to see what it's saying
get a set of a/c gauges - not too expensive - and check pressures
and/or
get a Mongoose JLR and read the HiLo pressure switch (er, I think it can do it, but someone might chime in and confirm)
and/or
figure where the HiLo wiring goes and use a meter to see what it's saying
#18
OK guys,
Finally got round to replacing the damaged condenser. The image above did turn out to be a leak.
My question is replacing the old and deformed condenser O-Rings...
I'm assuming the unit (american made) uses imperial sizes. Our local Halfords offers an O-Ring kit with different sizes which we think are metric sizes.
Can anyone help in identifying the O-Ring size we need. There are 2 in total.
Thanks.
Finally got round to replacing the damaged condenser. The image above did turn out to be a leak.
My question is replacing the old and deformed condenser O-Rings...
I'm assuming the unit (american made) uses imperial sizes. Our local Halfords offers an O-Ring kit with different sizes which we think are metric sizes.
Can anyone help in identifying the O-Ring size we need. There are 2 in total.
Thanks.
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