2000 S-Type 3.0 Rear Window Regulator Replacement
#1
2000 S-Type 3.0 Rear Window Regulator Replacement
Hello Everyone!
I am fairly new to the forum, but I have been searching through it and found very useful information. Unfortunately, I have run into a problem where both rear windows (passenger and driver) no longer want to go up or down. I removed one door panel and found that one end of the cable came off the center part of the track that lifts the window.
I checked the service manual on alldata to see how to replace the regulator, but I'm a bit confused on the part where you seperate the window glass from the rail. The instructions are pretty vague in the manual saying to 'use a punch to remove inner lock cylinder' or something along those lines.
I was wondering if anyone has replaced the window regulator and motor on their own, and could offer some advice on how to first get the window glass off the track so I can get the regulator and motor out? Thanks in advance for your help!
I am fairly new to the forum, but I have been searching through it and found very useful information. Unfortunately, I have run into a problem where both rear windows (passenger and driver) no longer want to go up or down. I removed one door panel and found that one end of the cable came off the center part of the track that lifts the window.
I checked the service manual on alldata to see how to replace the regulator, but I'm a bit confused on the part where you seperate the window glass from the rail. The instructions are pretty vague in the manual saying to 'use a punch to remove inner lock cylinder' or something along those lines.
I was wondering if anyone has replaced the window regulator and motor on their own, and could offer some advice on how to first get the window glass off the track so I can get the regulator and motor out? Thanks in advance for your help!
#2
MHrusovsky, looking at the JTIS service CD, they recommend removing both pieces of glass from the door and then going after the regulator. But, I believe you can remove the regulator by simply using a second person to hold the glass where you need it to be. So here is what you will need to do:
1) remove the interior door panel
2) looking at the door from the inside, look near the back for a round access hole that has a cover over it, remove the cover.
3) manually push the window down to allow the regulator pin to be exposed inside of this access hole.
4) with a second person holding the glass in place, use a punch to push out the retaining pin and then the retaining sleeve. This will allow the regulator assembly to be removed from the glass.
5) push the window all the way up and using some duct tape or other strong tape, tape the window in the up position.
6) Disconnect the plug feeding power to the regulator and then remove the 3 bolts (2 near the bottom of the door, one top center) holding the regulator to the door. Slide the regulator out the large hole near the rear of the door.
The "big" problem with this is getting the window held in place. I have done this a few times and never had any issues. If you feel more comfortable having the glass removed, let me know and I will include those directions too. But, this is going to add a lot of disassembly to the job as you have to remove both pieces of glass from the door (ie, the small rear most piece must come out before the main sliding piece of glass can come out and the small piece can only come out once the exterior trim of the door is removed).
HOpe this helps.
1) remove the interior door panel
2) looking at the door from the inside, look near the back for a round access hole that has a cover over it, remove the cover.
3) manually push the window down to allow the regulator pin to be exposed inside of this access hole.
4) with a second person holding the glass in place, use a punch to push out the retaining pin and then the retaining sleeve. This will allow the regulator assembly to be removed from the glass.
5) push the window all the way up and using some duct tape or other strong tape, tape the window in the up position.
6) Disconnect the plug feeding power to the regulator and then remove the 3 bolts (2 near the bottom of the door, one top center) holding the regulator to the door. Slide the regulator out the large hole near the rear of the door.
The "big" problem with this is getting the window held in place. I have done this a few times and never had any issues. If you feel more comfortable having the glass removed, let me know and I will include those directions too. But, this is going to add a lot of disassembly to the job as you have to remove both pieces of glass from the door (ie, the small rear most piece must come out before the main sliding piece of glass can come out and the small piece can only come out once the exterior trim of the door is removed).
HOpe this helps.
#3
Thermo,
Thanks for the quick response. I was curious though, the retaining pin and sleve, does that go all the way through the glass? Also, once I remove those parts, are they prety much 'done'? Meaning, there's no way to re-use them? I would first like to get the regulator out to see if I can re-connect the cable before I go out and purchase a new one.
Also, this may sound odd, but you wouldn't happen to know what kind of punch (size) I should use? I don't think I have any punch tools in my tool box. I'm just your typical weekend warrior with some screwdrivers and a complete socket/wrench set.
Thanks again!
Thanks for the quick response. I was curious though, the retaining pin and sleve, does that go all the way through the glass? Also, once I remove those parts, are they prety much 'done'? Meaning, there's no way to re-use them? I would first like to get the regulator out to see if I can re-connect the cable before I go out and purchase a new one.
Also, this may sound odd, but you wouldn't happen to know what kind of punch (size) I should use? I don't think I have any punch tools in my tool box. I'm just your typical weekend warrior with some screwdrivers and a complete socket/wrench set.
Thanks again!
#6
As for the type of punch, you will more than likely need something with a fairly narrow head to it (something like you would use to recess a nail deep inside of a hole with). Most punches get fairly wide shortly after the point of the punch. But the style you are after will remain narrow for the first inch or so. I would also recommend providing some support on the back side when trying to push out the pin. This will minimize the flexing of the glass, preventing the glass from breaking. You may be able to get a tool like a bicycle chain pin removal tool to push the pin out that way. This tool has a claw that would fit on the back side of the pin and then has a small post that would push the pin out, letting it slide between the fingers of the claw. You can normally pick up something like the bike chain tool for $10 or so at a bike store (not a place like KMart, WalMart, etc, but where they sell higher end bikes). As for the size of the pin, not sure on that.
#7
Thermo,
Thanks for the detailed post. I managed to put this window regulator with motor replacement although there are minor differences that my husband helped me to reconcile through in order to finish the replacement. Thank you again.
Ema White
Thanks for the detailed post. I managed to put this window regulator with motor replacement although there are minor differences that my husband helped me to reconcile through in order to finish the replacement. Thank you again.
Ema White
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#10
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starpilot76 (03-01-2011)
#13
#16
Popped all the panels off last night - I was hoping to take my jag with me on the 1400 mile trip (honeymoon)......
oh well, will have to try and fix it when I get back as I am not taking this to a Canadian Dealer ($$)
Last edited by Plum; 07-31-2009 at 01:41 PM.
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Bad window regulators can plague all car types!
See door Panel Removal for root cause & solution.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=306869
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=306869
Last edited by danielsatur; 10-15-2009 at 11:31 AM.
#18
See door Panel Removal for root cause & solution.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=306869
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=306869
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
When the problem is resolved, Threads should be closed!
4000 Hits dude, It's all about Hot threads and not BS!
I have seen 3-pages of BS about reprograming a JAG KEY FOB,and it was answered on the 1st page.
The dude didn't read, and he had alot more issues with his car.
Wow! $3.5k for a freeze plug.
1) Who can afford $500 for a bad window requlator?
2) Bad Technicians has caused alot of lost customers and will still blame the customer.
3) American Automotive companys design these cars for min maint.
Caution - Driving with your windows down, can also put wear & tear on head liners, because of wind resistance.
If you noticed newer cars are designed with smaller windows for safety (side Air bags), and prevent the window regulator problem.
I have seen 3-pages of BS about reprograming a JAG KEY FOB,and it was answered on the 1st page.
The dude didn't read, and he had alot more issues with his car.
Wow! $3.5k for a freeze plug.
1) Who can afford $500 for a bad window requlator?
2) Bad Technicians has caused alot of lost customers and will still blame the customer.
3) American Automotive companys design these cars for min maint.
Caution - Driving with your windows down, can also put wear & tear on head liners, because of wind resistance.
If you noticed newer cars are designed with smaller windows for safety (side Air bags), and prevent the window regulator problem.
Last edited by danielsatur; 10-15-2009 at 08:31 PM.
#20
PS... This site has spell check...