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2000 S-Type 3.0 Rear Window Regulator Replacement

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  #1  
Old 07-03-2009 | 12:30 AM
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Default 2000 S-Type 3.0 Rear Window Regulator Replacement

Hello Everyone!

I am fairly new to the forum, but I have been searching through it and found very useful information. Unfortunately, I have run into a problem where both rear windows (passenger and driver) no longer want to go up or down. I removed one door panel and found that one end of the cable came off the center part of the track that lifts the window.

I checked the service manual on alldata to see how to replace the regulator, but I'm a bit confused on the part where you seperate the window glass from the rail. The instructions are pretty vague in the manual saying to 'use a punch to remove inner lock cylinder' or something along those lines.

I was wondering if anyone has replaced the window regulator and motor on their own, and could offer some advice on how to first get the window glass off the track so I can get the regulator and motor out? Thanks in advance for your help!
 
  #2  
Old 07-03-2009 | 07:01 AM
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MHrusovsky, looking at the JTIS service CD, they recommend removing both pieces of glass from the door and then going after the regulator. But, I believe you can remove the regulator by simply using a second person to hold the glass where you need it to be. So here is what you will need to do:

1) remove the interior door panel
2) looking at the door from the inside, look near the back for a round access hole that has a cover over it, remove the cover.
3) manually push the window down to allow the regulator pin to be exposed inside of this access hole.
4) with a second person holding the glass in place, use a punch to push out the retaining pin and then the retaining sleeve. This will allow the regulator assembly to be removed from the glass.
5) push the window all the way up and using some duct tape or other strong tape, tape the window in the up position.
6) Disconnect the plug feeding power to the regulator and then remove the 3 bolts (2 near the bottom of the door, one top center) holding the regulator to the door. Slide the regulator out the large hole near the rear of the door.

The "big" problem with this is getting the window held in place. I have done this a few times and never had any issues. If you feel more comfortable having the glass removed, let me know and I will include those directions too. But, this is going to add a lot of disassembly to the job as you have to remove both pieces of glass from the door (ie, the small rear most piece must come out before the main sliding piece of glass can come out and the small piece can only come out once the exterior trim of the door is removed).

HOpe this helps.
 
  #3  
Old 07-03-2009 | 10:15 AM
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Thermo,

Thanks for the quick response. I was curious though, the retaining pin and sleve, does that go all the way through the glass? Also, once I remove those parts, are they prety much 'done'? Meaning, there's no way to re-use them? I would first like to get the regulator out to see if I can re-connect the cable before I go out and purchase a new one.

Also, this may sound odd, but you wouldn't happen to know what kind of punch (size) I should use? I don't think I have any punch tools in my tool box. I'm just your typical weekend warrior with some screwdrivers and a complete socket/wrench set.

Thanks again!
 
  #4  
Old 07-10-2009 | 08:42 AM
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any follow up to this - This same problem just occured on my 2001 S-type.

Thank you,
 
  #5  
Old 07-10-2009 | 10:40 AM
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I haven't received any response yet. I think the punch tool you need is fairly small, I just want to make sure that retaining ring/clip thing does go through the glass.
 
  #6  
Old 07-10-2009 | 12:07 PM
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As for the type of punch, you will more than likely need something with a fairly narrow head to it (something like you would use to recess a nail deep inside of a hole with). Most punches get fairly wide shortly after the point of the punch. But the style you are after will remain narrow for the first inch or so. I would also recommend providing some support on the back side when trying to push out the pin. This will minimize the flexing of the glass, preventing the glass from breaking. You may be able to get a tool like a bicycle chain pin removal tool to push the pin out that way. This tool has a claw that would fit on the back side of the pin and then has a small post that would push the pin out, letting it slide between the fingers of the claw. You can normally pick up something like the bike chain tool for $10 or so at a bike store (not a place like KMart, WalMart, etc, but where they sell higher end bikes). As for the size of the pin, not sure on that.
 
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Old 07-24-2009 | 09:52 PM
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Thermo,

Thanks for the detailed post. I managed to put this window regulator with motor replacement although there are minor differences that my husband helped me to reconcile through in order to finish the replacement. Thank you again.

Ema White
 
  #8  
Old 07-24-2009 | 10:52 PM
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ema, not a problem. That is why we are all here. Take what you learned, learn some more and help out some other members.
 
  #9  
Old 07-25-2009 | 04:16 AM
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I will.Thanks again.
 
  #10  
Old 07-25-2009 | 09:02 AM
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Go to my web page and you will find photos and short instructions on how to replace the window regulator. I replaced both the front and rear regulators on my sons car.
 
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  #11  
Old 07-30-2009 | 11:20 AM
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My front passenger window now failed....

Seems to be a common problem.
 

Last edited by Plum; 07-30-2009 at 01:11 PM.
  #12  
Old 07-30-2009 | 12:15 PM
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Does anyone have any recommendations on where to purchase the regulator ie: does any supplier offer a superior product so that I am not replacing these again?

Thank you,
 
  #13  
Old 07-30-2009 | 01:13 PM
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And now my Drivers window just failed while going to get coffee at the drive thru.... Wow is all I can say

3 window regulators in about 2 months.....

bought the car in April 2009 with 82xxxkms and now has 97xxx kms.
 
  #14  
Old 07-30-2009 | 11:12 PM
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You can buy the regulators at the Ford dealer. The Lincoln LS of the same year will fit.
 
  #15  
Old 07-31-2009 | 01:26 AM
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check the ground in the passenger kick right below hr fuse box. I thought my had also until i found that the ground was really loose for some reason
 
  #16  
Old 07-31-2009 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by phd12volt
check the ground in the passenger kick right below hr fuse box. I thought my had also until i found that the ground was really loose for some reason
No.... the regulator has failed in 3 of the 4 windows!

Popped all the panels off last night - I was hoping to take my jag with me on the 1400 mile trip (honeymoon)......

oh well, will have to try and fix it when I get back as I am not taking this to a Canadian Dealer ($$)
 

Last edited by Plum; 07-31-2009 at 01:41 PM.
  #18  
Old 10-15-2009 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by danielsatur
See door Panel Removal for root cause & solution.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=306869
And I see your posts on automotive forums are worth as much as they are here!
 
  #20  
Old 10-15-2009 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by danielsatur
4000 Hits dude, It's all about Hot threads and not BS!Who can afford $500 for a bad window requlator?I have seen 3-pages of BS about reprograming a JAG KEY FOB,and it was answered on the 1st page.Bad Technicans has caused alot of lost customers.
It's about solid, understandable, relative commentary. If you don't like it, what else is there to say but, Bye.

PS... This site has spell check...
 


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