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2000 s-type 3.0 V6 - heater problems

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  #21  
Old 12-06-2015 | 03:55 AM
Leonard_85's Avatar
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From: England
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Hi,

Yes the 2 pipes leading to the cabin - these were both hot and the 3rd alloy pipe was extremely hot - (coolant back to dccv)? The other 2 connections are rubber i believe?

Regards,
 
  #22  
Old 12-16-2015 | 07:47 PM
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From: Oregon
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Originally Posted by Leonard_85
Hi,

Yes the 2 pipes leading to the cabin - these were both hot and the 3rd alloy pipe was extremely hot - (coolant back to dccv)? The other 2 connections are rubber i believe?

Regards,

Did you ever get the no heat issue resolved? I wanted to check the temps on the heater lines on my car for comparison, but was out of town for 3 weeks on business. On my return to Oregon, we've been experiencing the wettest weather in recent memory, with animals heading two by two towards higher ground for some odd reason. Tonight is one of the few non-monsoon evenings, but my son has borrowed the car.

Anyway, I think I may have steered you wrong with my suggestion to feel the temperature of the heater lines. I think there's just too much radiant heat under the hood to make the results meaningful.

My latest Theory Du Jour™ for troubleshooting is to remove fuse #1 under the hood. This removes power to the DCCV. The internal solenoids are spring-loaded to the open position, so you should get full heat at all times. If not, the most likely culprit is the valve guts are corroded and stuck in the closed position. The same fuse also controls the AC clutch and the V8 auxiliary coolant pump. On a V8, you'd have to rev up the engine to ensure adequate cooling flow through the DCCV and heater core.
 

Last edited by kr98664; 12-16-2015 at 07:49 PM.
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