2000 S Type 4.0 - Overheated Today No Fan then Fan Started Working??
#1
2000 S Type 4.0 - Overheated Today No Fan then Fan Started Working??
Hi Guys,
My S Type overheated today.
First, it was hot (around 94 degrees) I had the AC on and that was the first thing I noticed the air became warm. Then I glanced at the temp gauge while I was at a red light and it was approaching the red zone and the "engine temp" message flashed. I thought the worst... bye bye 4.0...
I parked her immediately and shut off. I opened up the expansion tank cap and noticed fluid on the ground (but didn't come out of the cap filler)
I let things cool down for about 20 minutes and turned on - I noticed no fan running. Checked 80A fuse - good..
I shut off and spun the fan blades a bit (best I could) and they turned freely. As the flat bed pulled up I turned on the car and the fan came on. I drove the car about 3 miles to my house and checked things out from top to bottom - no leaks and fan was running and temp normal.
I drove about 30 more miles (with heater on) and all was normal. No engine noises, smooth driving. Fluid level in expansion tank was steady... (minus the bit lost when opening up cap)
I noticed about a week or so ago a weird almost bearing like sound coming from the fan after shutting the engine off. but didn't think anything of it.
Two trains of thought...
Fan motor on the way out.
Fan relay module issues. (I did swap some relays in the engine fuse box) but I did realize there are no relays in the engine fuse box that control the fan relay module... or are they?
Any feedback would be appreciated.
Thanks
My S Type overheated today.
First, it was hot (around 94 degrees) I had the AC on and that was the first thing I noticed the air became warm. Then I glanced at the temp gauge while I was at a red light and it was approaching the red zone and the "engine temp" message flashed. I thought the worst... bye bye 4.0...
I parked her immediately and shut off. I opened up the expansion tank cap and noticed fluid on the ground (but didn't come out of the cap filler)
I let things cool down for about 20 minutes and turned on - I noticed no fan running. Checked 80A fuse - good..
I shut off and spun the fan blades a bit (best I could) and they turned freely. As the flat bed pulled up I turned on the car and the fan came on. I drove the car about 3 miles to my house and checked things out from top to bottom - no leaks and fan was running and temp normal.
I drove about 30 more miles (with heater on) and all was normal. No engine noises, smooth driving. Fluid level in expansion tank was steady... (minus the bit lost when opening up cap)
I noticed about a week or so ago a weird almost bearing like sound coming from the fan after shutting the engine off. but didn't think anything of it.
Two trains of thought...
Fan motor on the way out.
Fan relay module issues. (I did swap some relays in the engine fuse box) but I did realize there are no relays in the engine fuse box that control the fan relay module... or are they?
Any feedback would be appreciated.
Thanks
Last edited by abonano; 09-09-2015 at 10:19 PM.
#2
#3
This is significant. The AC should remain cold irrespective of coolant temp. I wonder if the entire car had a voltage melt down that resulted in no signal to the coolant fan to turn on and no signal to the AC compressor clutch to engage (?)
#4
#6
#7
JagV8 - yes, tensioners and everything else all done by me. Pushing 244K miles on the 4.0 engine.. I do have JTIS and WDS - I wanted to get input from my fellow members on my situation..
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#8
Thanks again guys for your input, it's greatly appreciated.
#9
If you can get hold of an appropriate tool (such as a 'scope - oscilloscope) you could look at what it's being told to do. Ii's via PWM so you're expecting a fairly square wave (well, it'll be non-square and anyway more rectangular than square) whose DC (duty cycle) changes. You may have to look when it should not have the fan running (er, cold engine, a/c off) so you'll grasp whether it changes when you're sure it should be running.
I suspect a normal DVOM (multi-meter) won't be much help though I've not tried looking at the signal(s) on our cars using one.
You wouldn't need a high speed 'scope - anything at all would do.
BTW, the fuel pump modules are also via PWM.
I suspect a normal DVOM (multi-meter) won't be much help though I've not tried looking at the signal(s) on our cars using one.
You wouldn't need a high speed 'scope - anything at all would do.
BTW, the fuel pump modules are also via PWM.
Last edited by JagV8; 09-11-2015 at 01:26 AM.
#10
Without airflow through the condenser (via the rad fan or driving above about 40 MPH) the A/C pressure would build until the pressure switch disabled the compressor clutch. This is a safety system designed into the car.
If you never slow down you don't need a radiator fan.
bob gauff
#11
That makes sense and substantiates the thought of cooling fan failure.
The following users liked this post:
abonano (09-11-2015)
#12
I bought the 5000 page manual off ebay. It is presented in sections, not page numbers. Takes a while to find things sometime.
#15
#16
#17
I'm currently running both JTIS and JEPC on Windows 8.1 and have run them on Windows 10 as a test:
Attachment 118548
They are installed directly and not in a Virtual Machine.
Graham
Attachment 118548
They are installed directly and not in a Virtual Machine.
Graham
The following 2 users liked this post by Mikey:
abonano (09-12-2015),
Jumpin' Jag Flash (09-12-2015)
#18
Pressure tested cooling system - good and no leaks, including the expansion tank..
Listening to the fan motor initially engage at low speed I hear what sounds to me like bearing noises then dissapears as the fan motor speed increases..
Cooling fan motor is original to the car...So im going to order a replacement cooling fan motor from a Lincoln LS..
Last edited by abonano; 09-13-2015 at 12:17 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Jumpin' Jag Flash (09-13-2015)
#19
Just a heads up on the LS part. This was one area that Ford strayed from the Jaguar side a bit.
The early LS (2000-2002) at least the V-8 models used a hydraulically driven engine cooling fan. Current explanation was the LS had a smaller alternator than the S Type and could not handle the added load of the electric fan.
This has been troublesome and for the 2003 and up LS's Ford swapped to the more normal electric fan assembly. And I guess upgraded the alternator at the same time.
You can tell because the engine compartment has what looks like 2 P/S fluid reservoirs.
Don't know if the 2003-2006 LS fan would work or not but I bet it will.
.
.
.
The following users liked this post:
abonano (09-14-2015)
#20
Hi Guys,
My S Type overheated today.
First, it was hot (around 94 degrees) I had the AC on and that was the first thing I noticed the air became warm. Then I glanced at the temp gauge while I was at a red light and it was approaching the red zone and the "engine temp" message flashed. I thought the worst... bye bye 4.0...
I parked her immediately and shut off. I opened up the expansion tank cap and noticed fluid on the ground (but didn't come out of the cap filler)
I let things cool down for about 20 minutes and turned on - I noticed no fan running. Checked 80A fuse - good..
I shut off and spun the fan blades a bit (best I could) and they turned freely. As the flat bed pulled up I turned on the car and the fan came on. I drove the car about 3 miles to my house and checked things out from top to bottom - no leaks and fan was running and temp normal.
I drove about 30 more miles (with heater on) and all was normal. No engine noises, smooth driving. Fluid level in expansion tank was steady... (minus the bit lost when opening up cap)
I noticed about a week or so ago a weird almost bearing like sound coming from the fan after shutting the engine off. but didn't think anything of it.
Two trains of thought...
Fan motor on the way out.
Fan relay module issues. (I did swap some relays in the engine fuse box) but I did realize there are no relays in the engine fuse box that control the fan relay module... or are they?
Any feedback would be appreciated.
Thanks
My S Type overheated today.
First, it was hot (around 94 degrees) I had the AC on and that was the first thing I noticed the air became warm. Then I glanced at the temp gauge while I was at a red light and it was approaching the red zone and the "engine temp" message flashed. I thought the worst... bye bye 4.0...
I parked her immediately and shut off. I opened up the expansion tank cap and noticed fluid on the ground (but didn't come out of the cap filler)
I let things cool down for about 20 minutes and turned on - I noticed no fan running. Checked 80A fuse - good..
I shut off and spun the fan blades a bit (best I could) and they turned freely. As the flat bed pulled up I turned on the car and the fan came on. I drove the car about 3 miles to my house and checked things out from top to bottom - no leaks and fan was running and temp normal.
I drove about 30 more miles (with heater on) and all was normal. No engine noises, smooth driving. Fluid level in expansion tank was steady... (minus the bit lost when opening up cap)
I noticed about a week or so ago a weird almost bearing like sound coming from the fan after shutting the engine off. but didn't think anything of it.
Two trains of thought...
Fan motor on the way out.
Fan relay module issues. (I did swap some relays in the engine fuse box) but I did realize there are no relays in the engine fuse box that control the fan relay module... or are they?
Any feedback would be appreciated.
Thanks