2000 s-type v8 heating problems
#1
2000 s-type v8 heating problems
i have a 2000 s-type v8, beutiful car, runs great with 80k miles
at idle i get no heat, running down the road i get heat out of the drivers side only, by reading other jaguar forums i thaught i was up to speed on what to check, i replaced the DCCV valve and still no change, the pipes going back to the firewall are getting nice and toasty but still no heat, i checked the auxillary water pump and it showed open so i replaced that also, i went thru the bleeding cool down cycle thinking i had air in the system, i did get some air out and more heat from the drivers side at speed but none at idle, i pulled the CCM out and couldnt find any burnt traces,
my question is will the damage on the board be obvious, and can i test with my multimeter for resistance, i read that pre 2003 s types usually dont have this problem but i dont know what else to check, any ideas
at idle i get no heat, running down the road i get heat out of the drivers side only, by reading other jaguar forums i thaught i was up to speed on what to check, i replaced the DCCV valve and still no change, the pipes going back to the firewall are getting nice and toasty but still no heat, i checked the auxillary water pump and it showed open so i replaced that also, i went thru the bleeding cool down cycle thinking i had air in the system, i did get some air out and more heat from the drivers side at speed but none at idle, i pulled the CCM out and couldnt find any burnt traces,
my question is will the damage on the board be obvious, and can i test with my multimeter for resistance, i read that pre 2003 s types usually dont have this problem but i dont know what else to check, any ideas
#2
#3
To add to clubairth1 - yes, the bleeder hose is located next to the master cylinder - it is a thick size hose with a plastic bleed screw on the end of it - you will need a thick flat blade screw driver to open up the bleed - be very careful - open and tighten carefully to not crack or break the bleed screw. (if you cannot locate - PM me - I will take a pic of mine and send it to you)
In basic terms - (cold engine) - fill coolant tank to "cold", screw expansion tank cap on, top off coolant through opening on top of thermostat housing - tighten housing cap to 9Nm - start engine, rev up to 1,500 - 2,000 RPM's for 3 minutes and then let engine idle w/ heater on high for about 5 - 10 more minutes - loosen the bleeder screw carefully - when coolant begins to drip out - tighten bleeder screw - shut off engine - let cool (repeat the process if necessary - only difference is fill up coolant through expansion tank only - do not reopen the thermostat housing cap)
Depending on trapped air you might have to repeat the above process 2 - 3X
Your symptoms are evident of a air block somewhere in your cooling system.
Also, regarding the CCM - 2002 and previous MY's are susceptable to the CCM damage issue when the DCCV goes (not sure on 2003+ MY's) If the bleed process above doesn't help - look further into the CCM.
Hope this info helps - good luck!
In basic terms - (cold engine) - fill coolant tank to "cold", screw expansion tank cap on, top off coolant through opening on top of thermostat housing - tighten housing cap to 9Nm - start engine, rev up to 1,500 - 2,000 RPM's for 3 minutes and then let engine idle w/ heater on high for about 5 - 10 more minutes - loosen the bleeder screw carefully - when coolant begins to drip out - tighten bleeder screw - shut off engine - let cool (repeat the process if necessary - only difference is fill up coolant through expansion tank only - do not reopen the thermostat housing cap)
Depending on trapped air you might have to repeat the above process 2 - 3X
Your symptoms are evident of a air block somewhere in your cooling system.
Also, regarding the CCM - 2002 and previous MY's are susceptable to the CCM damage issue when the DCCV goes (not sure on 2003+ MY's) If the bleed process above doesn't help - look further into the CCM.
Hope this info helps - good luck!
Last edited by abonano; 01-12-2013 at 08:16 AM.
#4
One other thing. When you were checking for burned spots in the CCM module. Did you know where to look or did you just inspect everything? There are some good instructions in this forum pointing out exactly where to look. The CCM pretty much fails the same way every time.
Have you been to:
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
Some good repair info with pictures.
This next place has a huge bunch of A/C repair info. A very detailed explanation of why the DCCV will damage your CCM and what to do to prevent it. They also will do the repair and install the protection circuits in your CCM. Also just to refresh everyone's memory. Only cars without NAV have a CCM. If you have NAV then you have a RCCM. The RCCM is a box behind the dash on the passenger side. These can also be damaged the same way but it seems less common so I think there must be some differences between the modules?
What's surprising is he gives all the instructions for us DIY guys !!
- JaguarClimateControl.com
.
.
.
Have you been to:
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
Some good repair info with pictures.
This next place has a huge bunch of A/C repair info. A very detailed explanation of why the DCCV will damage your CCM and what to do to prevent it. They also will do the repair and install the protection circuits in your CCM. Also just to refresh everyone's memory. Only cars without NAV have a CCM. If you have NAV then you have a RCCM. The RCCM is a box behind the dash on the passenger side. These can also be damaged the same way but it seems less common so I think there must be some differences between the modules?
What's surprising is he gives all the instructions for us DIY guys !!
- JaguarClimateControl.com
.
.
.
#5
#6
#7
i found the bleeder hose, it was tucked under the master cylinder, i hate the idea of reinstalling the ccm without testing it on the bench, but since i dont know what the readings should be il do the install and bleed the system some more,the right way this time, il keep u informed, im gonna work on it all day if i have toooo, its cold outside, lol, thanx again for the info
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#8
hey abonano
hey abonano, i appreciate the info, on the ccm, i checked the trace on the 8th pin where they show the damage should be but it all looks clean with no burns, i did a coninuity check and all came back good, should i reinstall the ccm and try bleeding more air, my hairs to short or i woulda pulled it out allready, lol
#9
bleed...
I just spent a month reworking my heat system on my 01 s type, 3 L. You cannot take the lid of resevoir to bleed, it is a pressurized system, thats just going to introduce MORE air into system and/or resist natural bleeding back to tank during cool down of motor. So FIND that heater core bleeder, its very important. Also , definately follow the above bleeding procedure during fill up.
I replaced my dccv also. Had the exact same problem with cool, until i brought up the idle. That is most likely air in system, atleast it was for mine. The bleeder by the resevoir was key to bleeding and also the 3 different mornings that I refilled resevoir before starting, because it bleeds itself during cooldown, bubbles back into tank, and takes coolant in, hence the lower fluid level in morning. I did this every morning until it was at level the same as shut down the night before.
The only other thing I was thinking it could be, is a water pump, thats not pumping well anymore at idle and requires higher rpms to push the correct amount of flow pressure through system, long shot though and most likely not it.
I replaced my dccv also. Had the exact same problem with cool, until i brought up the idle. That is most likely air in system, atleast it was for mine. The bleeder by the resevoir was key to bleeding and also the 3 different mornings that I refilled resevoir before starting, because it bleeds itself during cooldown, bubbles back into tank, and takes coolant in, hence the lower fluid level in morning. I did this every morning until it was at level the same as shut down the night before.
The only other thing I was thinking it could be, is a water pump, thats not pumping well anymore at idle and requires higher rpms to push the correct amount of flow pressure through system, long shot though and most likely not it.
#10
hey abonano, i appreciate the info, on the ccm, i checked the trace on the 8th pin where they show the damage should be but it all looks clean with no burns, i did a coninuity check and all came back good, should i reinstall the ccm and try bleeding more air, my hairs to short or i woulda pulled it out allready, lol
Last edited by abonano; 01-12-2013 at 01:47 PM.
#11
S-Type / S type R Supercharged V8 1999 - 2008
I had the exact same problem on my 2000 v8. It took me 9 months and many $ to solve. Jaguar said it was the DCCM. Replaced, still bad. Another shop said it was wiring and found a bad worn spot which they fixed, still bad. jaguar shop said it was the CCM, bought a used one from EBay, still bad. Jaguar shop finally did some actual checking into the problem which they should have done in the first place and found a bad aux heating pump. Replaced. Now it works good but not super, my other cars heat up faster. Maybe aux heat pump?
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