And the verdict is????

 

Well i have been holding off on replacing the battery because i cant find the radio code anywhere, in the driver's handbook it says refer to the audio systems handbook for the code and there is nothing in the audio systems handbook...am i missing something?

 

You won't need the radio code because the battery will only be disconnected for max 10 minutes. Put in a new battery already!

 

Ok i just finished putting it in, It took me about 20 mins(first time) lol the radio didn't ask me for a code just the clock reset and that's it.

All the lights seem more bright and no more codes or messages at start up...ill report back in a few days, thanks everyone for the help.

 

I do not remember having to enter any code for the radio when replacing the battery. And it was disconnected for a lot longer then 20 minutes when I was trying to figure some other issues out. Could it be the code was not required for earlier years?

 

I wouldn't know I've only had this car for about 4 months and i can tell that the previous owner didn't do any maintenance on it, I mean I'm really surprised that the old battery i just took out lasted me that long...it didn't even have the little vent tube connected, the tube was all flat under the battery lol.

I'm going to do the fuel filter, spark plugs and an oil change in the coming weeks.

 

Mine is on a sticker in the back of the book.. Sorry I was late. As I see, the battery needs to be disconected longer for the anti-theft to be activated.. Good to know.. I love when I learn something new!

 

Hi Elvis 87,
A bit late with this, but hope you disconnected the negative lead from the old battery first, as instructed in the Jaguar Hand Book. Doing it the other way round, you risk damage to the dash electrics etc.
Hope all is well now.
With the little service information you have on your car, it may be worth having the Transmission Oil changed as this would clear out the any residue in the box plus the now worn out oil, which will then help the auto-box to function better.
Regards,
Inver.

 

I followed Brutals suggestion on adding the trans fluid to the oil for about 75 to 100 miles and did the change. Worked great!!!! Also the suggestion to apply some silicone( i used a clear one) to the rubber seal on bottom of front windowshield glass to prevent water from getting into engine area is a good move. Just some little things to think about.

 

Yes of course...I read the manual before moving anything hehe loand about the transmission fluid, do you think i should do it? Some people have told me not mess with that if i feel it fine kind of a if it ain't broke don't fix it thing

 

Ok so 2 days after putting the new battery...same problem, check engine light came on then about 10 mins later transmission fault message and now it happened while driving...I'm getting the same codes posted on the first page plus a new one that says shift solenoid A but after i got home i told my dad about it and he wanted to test it and what happened next just made me want to sell this car...the car would start and then just die, we tried it like 4 or 5 times and then it started and displayed a transmission fault message.

Looking at all the codes of the first page do you guys think that just the solenoids are bad or should i just get a new tranny? Thanks.

 

Do not despair Elvis, you are in a fault area with your car needing sophisticated attention; modern cars, especially Jags. are not like the old 1970s machines. And there is only just so much that can be done "by remote control" from here. As a final check after reading through the contributions, if I were you I'd get a cheap and cheerful digi-meter and check the following:--
1) The battery voltage at rest. Should be around 12.6volt.
2) The battery voltage with engine running. Should be 14.4volt.
3) The battery voltage during cranking. Should be not less than about 9volt. AND the cranking should be smart, not sluggish.

You've changed the battery for a new one -- good. But remember it has to be charged, usually by the car. Despite what your electrician said, I'd check further. You could charge the battery with a mains charger from the house and see what happens when you try to start the car when charging finished.

Explanation: I've not done investigatory work in this partic. problem, but my (remote-control) guess would be that the battery voltage MIGHT be falling too far during cranking (because of poor charge) to keep the microprocessors 'clean' as it were, resulting in all those error codes.

It's worth a try, won't cost anything. Finally, if the fault is in this battery-circuit area, you need to check all the heavy battery current wiring to eliminate corroded fastners/nuts etc. There is I believe also a security isolator in the heavy wiring to starter motor, alternator. Ensure this is in good order too. Check the engine thick-wire ground-strap from engine body to chassis. I know all this is tedious, but to trouble shoot this problem, you have to doggedly eliminate possible causes of the fault one-by-one.
Finally, you might have to call in a Jaguar specialist who can "get his head under the bonnet", the only difficulty might be finding one!
Cheers, Leedsman.

 

Well as you can see this problem now happened during driving 2 days after i put in the new battery, not only during start up now. Do you still think it could be the battery? i mean the car wouldn't go it would just die but you may be right when my dad tried to start it up the first time, it sounded really sluggish then it started and after a few seconds it died, he then tried it about 4 or 5 times and it would start and immediately just die but the engine only, all the lights were still on and so was the radio.

By looking at the codes from the OBDII to me it would seem like my solenoid block is bad, notice how code P0797 says Pressure Control Solenoid C Stuck On also solenoid A,B,C malfunction. The transmission in general feels fine...no rough shifting and all the gears go in quick.

Now my dad just payed $4K for this Jag so we knew it would come with some problems even the guy who sold it to us which was a friend of mine was very honest about it, i mean if worse comes to worse i just need a new transmission right?

 

Elvis so far everyone here is pointing to an electrical failure and not an expensive transmission. You really need to get a full charge on that new battery as mentioned in different posts and check the voltage when cranking and starting. I do not want to add more ideas here that are wrong or confusing but it sounds like to me the alternater is not doing its job and charging the battery and running all the electronics in on the vehicle when running.

Again test test test before you and your dad throw good money after bad!

 

If you clear the codes, then:
1. how long before a code appears?
2. how many and which codes?

I'm trying to rule out chafed wires / bad connectors.

If you clear them again and repeat, perhaps a couple of times, are they always the same codes? If not, what are the codes each time?

If you're able to check for "pending" codes, look at those too.

I reckon if they're always the same AND appear very quickly AND are always tranny-related.... then yes you probably have a tranny problem. However, with that age car it's the Ford 5R55N, which is well known by tranny specialists and has some quite cheap (to fix) common faults.

 

**retracted**

 

Well i cleared the codes 3 days ago when i installed the new battery, and it just happened again today when i was stopped on a red light...i tried to accelerate and i just heard the engine go and the car started to move really slow so i looked in the dash and i had the check engine light on with a transmission fault message.

these are the codes that always come up, sometimes it says Shift Solenoid A Malfunction too but that one comes and goes.

P0743 - Torque Converter Clutch System Electrical Failure

P0755 - Shift Solenoid B Malfunction

P0760 - Shift Solenoid C Malfunction

P0797 - Pressure Control Solenoid C Stuck "On"

P1747 - Pressure Regulator 3 (Manufacturer specific)

P1789 - Ignition Supply Malfunction (Manufacturer specific)

P0430 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)

The new thing now was that when my dad tried to start it up the first time it sounded really sluggish it went for about 20 seconds and then died, he kept trying to start it and it would immediately die, it wasn't until after he cleared the codes with this OBDII reader that we were able to start up the car but the transmission fault message was still there and it would move really slow. Thanks everyone for your time and help.

 

Any P1 is make-specific (and can be model- and/or year- specific). The ones you have are not correct for your car.

So (for your car):

P1747 Pressure control solenoid 1 circuit high voltage
(sounds like a short to battery +)

P1789 Pressure control solenoid 2 drive circuit low voltage
(can be failed solenoid or short to ground or tranny failure)

That lot could easily be a bad harness. But could also be lack of ATF or a bad tranny.

I'd be investigating (and trying not to drive it at all).

 

It'll be nice to get that car on a lift and trace all major engine, charging, and tranny wire harness couplers and grounds. If the starter motor is still sluggish following a new battery, a charging system fault may be the culprit. As leedsman suggests; check battery with engine off (12.6 volts) then with engine on (14.4 volts).

 

Ok so i checked the voltage and with the car off it was 12.58v and with the car running it was 13.78v.

What do you guys think? Just a low battery?