I recently purchased a 01 s-type 4.0 with a long list of issues some fixed some new. Originally i purchased it with the impression that it was a running and driving auto before engine blew (that remains to be seen). The old owner bought a new engine and paid a "backyard mechanic" to install and get running but was unable to do either correctly.
That being said ive recently re-timed it as well as installed the flexplate in the correct position had the heads checked and all is good. It starts and runs fine for about 10 maybe 15 minutes once it gets to operating temp it starts to stumble then just quits. After it cuts off it will not restart until it sets for a bit then it starts and stalls again. No DTC codes and no warning at all. All plugs coils are new the CKP sensor was replaced before i got it but not sure that is the case. It has 32 lbs fuel pressure at idle and stays pressurized even after it cuts off actually goes up to 60lbs.
Battery new and fully charged. Im not quite sure what direction to go in first without any code. Me being new to the jaguar world ive gotten lots of good advice and am grateful, any advice would be appreciated.

 

Given the chance to gamble with your time and money, I'd bet on the CKP sensor, especially since you're not sure if it had actually been replaced.

I had a '96 Lincoln V8 do almost the exact thing with no codes, and the CKP sensor was the fix. For reasons unknown, certain seemingly critical faults are not monitored with FoMoCo logic. Makes no sense to me.

Definitely spring for an OEM sensor. (Ford is just fine, as I'm pretty sure Jaguar gets their parts like this from the same manufacturer and then puts it in a very expensive box.) The quality on some aftermarket brands is iffy, so OEM is best for critical parts like this.

 

32lbs of fuel pressure is way low. Should be 40 lbs at least at idle. Check fuel filter... Along with CKP.. Also possible voltage drop or failing fuel pump..

 

I replaced the ckp and still same issue runs fine idles fine and then just dies with no warning. let it sit maybe 3 or 4 minutes and boom starts right up then dies again within 5 minutes. It does get to operating temp and the cooling fan comes on. One thing that im not sure of is when the fan comes on it seems to be gaining rpms the longer its on like it is variable speed is that normal.
i will try the fuel filter and the car was sitting for quite a while before i got it so maybe the fuel pump could be going out. but when it dies it holds the pressure even after it dies.

 

If the car was sitting a while aim for the fuel filter first (when removing if you see brownish gas coming out of the filter then odds are your fuel pump is on its last legs) then test voltage to the fuel pump. Should be at least 10.5V at the pump.

Check fuel pressure while the engine is running. Again 40psi is minimum pressure. Anything less your pump is failing or you might get lucky with a clogged fuel filter.

Hope this helps..

 

Thanks that gives me a little more direction. The gas is brown in color i thought the gas was bad i can see it when the fuel pressure gauge bleeds the pressure off into clear bottle. i will do the filter tomorrow and check the voltage as well. It idles at 32 psi and fluctuates. im going to listen to the fuel pump while it's running and see if it shuts off when it stalls. But the thing thats stumping me is when it dies the fuel pressure doesnt drop at all.

 

Sorry the CKP sensor didn't fix it. As far as that old brown gas, get rid of it. Siphon it out of the tank and put some fresh stuff in there. Once gasoline is more than a few months old, it can turn into this weird stuff that looks and smells like gasoline but doesn't ignite nearly as well.

As previously mentioned, the pressure needs to be 40psi minimum at idle. Take care of that, along with fresh fuel, before some chucklehead starts telling you to change some fancy sensor or who knows what...

If lucky, the low pressure is caused by just the filter. At worst (and not really that bad at all) the fuel pump is renting the farm with an option to buy. There may still be some other issues at play, but take care of those things first.

 

I have not changed the fuel filter yet but did check the fuel pump voltage it is 12.1 volts and used a stethescope listening to the fuel pump and when the car dies the fuel pump still runs for a few seconds and still has pressure. Pretty sure the fuel pump is not the stalling issue.

 

Update??

 

Why can't it be an air leak? Checked fuel trims?

 

No update I had to replace water pump and power steering pump not working so it's apart as of now. Strange thing when I pulled the ac compressor the oil that came out of it was black and I put fresh oil in it when I installed it the first time. The ac isn't charged yet so why would it be black of the compressor is not running.

 

Update, so i found that after it dies it has no injector pulse but it does have spark, let it sit for a few minutes then boom it starts then dies in a couple minutes. I have replaced the fuel filter and it does have a new ckp.

 

Your A/C may have suffered "Black Death"?

Take a look;
What is Black Death?

The oil should not be black but clear with a yellow/green tint to it.
.
.
.

 

So after some more time and many tests i still have stalling issue with no injector pulse. I've got the fuel trims exactly where they need to be i had a vacuum leak at the blanking plug on manifold. I have checked for signal at pcm from ckp when car dies and have signal and also has rpm while cranking after dies.
It has new injectors, good fuel pressur and spark. Im not sure what direction to go in next.
the car seems to hover around 217 degrees at idle, the fans come on but it doesn't seem to drop. New water pump,dccv,thermostat, both temp sensors are new. The temp i'm reading on my scanner live data but the gauge stays right in the middle.
I know my main issue is the stalling so im trying to eliminate all other things to narrow down the issue.

 

Good troubleshooting and loosing the injector pulse is just not reported so I do think you are in new territory here.

Could you have a faulty connection from the injector harness to the PCM?

I would find the wire coming out of the PCM that carries the injector pulse. Then monitor that line as close to the PCM as you can. Do you still lose the injector commands?

Have you inspected the PCM? Rarely but we have had people report water stains inside it indicating water somehow got in it.
.
.
.

 

Here's the strange thing I got another pcm and took it to dealership and had it programmed and it still stalled, I was told it was in the wiring.
So I got a good Used harness and still same issue.
I will try checking injector wire from pcm.

 

A couple of random thoughts:

Is the loss of injector pulse a primary fault? Or could it be a normal response by the PCM when the engine shuts down for some other reason, such as fuel starvation? I've got some training manuals that might offer more details, but don't have access to them right now. I'd hate to see you go down a troubleshooting dead-end for an observation that may not be an actual fault.

What about the camshaft position sensor? You've already tried the sensor for the crankshaft. Might be worth gambling on the sensor for the camshaft. The sensor has a bunch of fine wire wrapped in a coil. An intermittent fault can be aggregated by heat, so that might explain the time delay. Surprisingly, not all sensor faults are reported by the PCM, so keep that in mind.

The low fuel pressure has been fixed, right?

 

It has new camshaft pos sensors, new fuel pump/filter the running pressure is 40 psi.
When it stalls if I check injector pulse there is none but has spark. Sometimes it will start right up and idle for a minute other times it just cranks, no start. I does have crank signal at pcm when it dies.

 

I checked the signal for one of the injectors at the pcm, it lights the test light until it starts to die, but this time it didn't stall immediately it kinda shook and stumbled until it stalled. I watched the test light and the signal went out at first and then came back then it died.

 

More food for thought. Okay, actually more like little hors d'oeuvre for thought...

Did you ever get rid of the old gas? Not sure it could cause your symptoms but it should be done anyway and might miraculously fix it.

You mentioned the engine was installed by a shadetree mechanic. Perhaps he didn't reinstall the ground cable between the engine and frame. I've seen this on many older vehicles. The ground then travels via any convenient path such as a clutch or throttle cable (not applicable here), fuel line, or the exhaust system. Maybe something changes as the engine warms up, hence the time delay. I realize it's a long shot, but do check the ground cable is correctly installed. I'm not sure where it is exactly, but hopefully somebody here can help.

How old is your battery? A marginal battery can cause some seemingly unexplainable problems, well documented in this forum. Might be worth gambling on a new battery.

FWIW