2002 jaguar s-type intake manifold problems....
#1
2002 jaguar s-type intake manifold problems....
How's it going everybody..
This is the second s-type that I have owned , but this one now has giving me some major problems. My boy and I both started to work on my car because the service light came on and it scanned that it is running too lean and that cylinder six has a misfire . We decided to change spark plugs and to move some coils around. My friend continued to work on it and found that the lower intake manifold won't stay on.....
And now the decision is on me and I am kind of hesitant on what to do. How much would this cost. I'm considering buying the part through jaguar, but if any one else can give me ideas, it will help.
This is the second s-type that I have owned , but this one now has giving me some major problems. My boy and I both started to work on my car because the service light came on and it scanned that it is running too lean and that cylinder six has a misfire . We decided to change spark plugs and to move some coils around. My friend continued to work on it and found that the lower intake manifold won't stay on.....
And now the decision is on me and I am kind of hesitant on what to do. How much would this cost. I'm considering buying the part through jaguar, but if any one else can give me ideas, it will help.
#2
I am not sure what you have going on but I see that you have a 2002 3.0 and if this is correct this link might help http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepair2...VacuumLeak.htm
#3
Are the bolts missing that hold the lower intake on missing? Are the lower intake manifold gaskets missing? Are the threads stripped? Need abit more information please.
Since you are into the project this far don't forget to replace the IMT O-rings! Definetly check out Gus's link on that elbow as well.
#4
Are the bolts missing that hold the lower intake on missing? Are the lower intake manifold gaskets missing? Are the threads stripped? Need abit more information please.
Since you are into the project this far don't forget to replace the IMT O-rings! Definetly check out Gus's link on that elbow as well.
Since you are into the project this far don't forget to replace the IMT O-rings! Definetly check out Gus's link on that elbow as well.
I did leave out a lot of information... The bolts that hold the lower intake manifold were strutted/stripped and messed up. The lower intake gaskets were all cracked... And I still need to look at the elbow and o-rings... My mechanic couldn't get the lower intake manifold back because of the bolts, so he tried some type of strong adhesive and left it under a heat lamp for 24hrs... It didn't hold up so now I think my only option is to replace the lower intake,
Thanks for the support everybody, if anyone else can help please do so..... Thanks again
#5
I did leave out a lot of information... The bolts that hold the lower intake manifold were strutted/stripped and messed up. The lower intake gaskets were all cracked... And I still need to look at the elbow and o-rings... My mechanic couldn't get the lower intake manifold back because of the bolts, so he tried some type of strong adhesive and left it under a heat lamp for 24hrs... It didn't hold up so now I think my only option is to replace the lower intake,
Thanks for the support everybody, if anyone else can help please do so..... Thanks again
Thanks for the support everybody, if anyone else can help please do so..... Thanks again
George
#6
#7
If the bolts are already spinning, a pair of vice grips with alot of upward pulling and unscrewing should get them out. You just have to catch part of the threads. After that use heli-coils to repair the threads in the block and buy 4 new bolts. Would be alot less money! Just my opinion.
How did the intake manifold come off if the bolts are not backing out of the block?
Why would someone have to try to glue the manifold down?
Either they snapped in the block, or got the heads cut / drilled out... Or the threads are wasted and bolts wont thread back in.
You're probably right on the wasted threads, but there's probably more to this story than just can't get the bolts out.
EDIT: To the OP. Why would you have to replace the intake manifold if you can't get it to fasten to the block? Your problem is the fasteners, or the treads in the block designed to accept them. Unless we're missing another piece of the puzzle here.
Take care,
George
Last edited by androulakis; 01-21-2011 at 12:36 PM.
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#8
Me and my mechanic are always back fourth .. He just told me that the threads are fine and we can work with them.. It's just that there are little inserts that they use on the manifold itself... The thread on those are fine but he said that they are free spinning and try are suppose to grip to a sidewall of a hole but they do not...
#9
#10
Me and my mechanic are always back fourth .. He just told me that the threads are fine and we can work with them.. It's just that there are little inserts that they use on the manifold itself... The thread on those are fine but he said that they are free spinning and try are suppose to grip to a sidewall of a hole but they do not...
Seal is made with the gaskets.
EDIT: Please don't tell me that some "mechanic" poured adhesive into the threads in the block cause he tried to start the bolt in the manifold and it wouldn't catch...
Take care,
George
#12
#13
First, go to you local for dealer and ask him for a set of lower intake manifold bolts for a Duratec 3.0 v6. Tell him it's for a 3.0 2002 Lincoln LS.
Once you get the bolts, and start with clean and fresh threads. Get some locktite purple (low strength), put a small stripe across the thread of each bolt. Seat the manifold, and hand tighten each of the bolts to where they are just snug.
Does your mechanic own a torque wrench? Will the bolts take (and hold) the torque evenly??
If no, it's time to drill and tap the block and heli-coil the threads.
If yes, start the car and see if you have the same leak.
One of two things is going on here. Either the manifold isn't torquing down, or the threads are wiped in the block and you have a bolt backing out. (check the torque before you remove them). Just try to tighten them with the torque wrench at the right setting. The bolts shouldn't move, the wrench should just click.
If one of the bolts backed out while running, it's time to once again drill, tap and heil-coil the threads in the block.
IF it holds the proper torque you have a bigger problem. It's time to start looking for cracks in the manifold, or (gasp), the block.
Take care,
George
#14
Okay, here's what you have to do. Step by step.
Once you get the bolts, and start with clean and fresh threads. Get some locktite purple (low strength), put a small stripe across the thread of each bolt. Seat the manifold, and hand tighten each of the bolts to where they are just snug.
Does your mechanic own a torque wrench? Will the bolts take (and hold) the torque evenly??
If no, it's time to drill and tap the block and heli-coil the threads.
If yes, start the car and see if you have the same leak.
One of two things is going on here. Either the manifold isn't torquing down, or the threads are wiped in the block and you have a bolt backing out. (check the torque before you remove them). Just try to tighten them with the torque wrench at the right setting. The bolts shouldn't move, the wrench should just click.
If one of the bolts backed out while running, it's time to once again drill, tap and heil-coil the threads in the block.
IF it holds the proper torque you have a bigger problem. It's time to start looking for cracks in the manifold, or (gasp), the block.
Take care,
George
Once you get the bolts, and start with clean and fresh threads. Get some locktite purple (low strength), put a small stripe across the thread of each bolt. Seat the manifold, and hand tighten each of the bolts to where they are just snug.
Does your mechanic own a torque wrench? Will the bolts take (and hold) the torque evenly??
If no, it's time to drill and tap the block and heli-coil the threads.
If yes, start the car and see if you have the same leak.
One of two things is going on here. Either the manifold isn't torquing down, or the threads are wiped in the block and you have a bolt backing out. (check the torque before you remove them). Just try to tighten them with the torque wrench at the right setting. The bolts shouldn't move, the wrench should just click.
If one of the bolts backed out while running, it's time to once again drill, tap and heil-coil the threads in the block.
IF it holds the proper torque you have a bigger problem. It's time to start looking for cracks in the manifold, or (gasp), the block.
Take care,
George
thanks a lot, greatly appreciated
#15
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#17
Take care,
George
#18
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