2002 s type broken Lug
#21
#22
#23
If you carefully calculate the amount the drill bit sticks out past your homemade guide block (Use a short piece of brass tube as a drill stop), you can drill almost entirely through the broken piece without going into the wheel itself. With the broken piece weakened by drilling, you should be able to break it free with a few quick blows from a small cold chisel.
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Jumpin' Jag Flash (12-02-2013)
#24
Hope this helps.
#25
let me just say how much I love this Blog. you guys are great. WELL.....I did get the Erwin bolt remover kit, but it did not fit. the remaining nut was too big. so I thought I would use my chisel to break loose the rest of the nut so I could use the bolt/nut remover kit. not the right choice. instead of breaking the remainder free all I did was mash it around. the metal is way to hard for a that. now the drilling it out is a good idea but now I might have really messed up the threads. so now no laughing but I will show what it looks like now. also I got a bit mad that my idea was not working so... as most of us do. I started hitting it harder....hay Im a guy. I also figured the lug nut was cracked at the last installation, because it broke free with very little effort. love the idea of making a jig for drilling the LUG but will try to drill the reaming of the nut first. so many other items on this car were such an easy fix with the vast knowledge of this board I guess I got a bit cocky and might have messed this up royally.
#29
I feel your pain. Bent my rim in an enormous pot hole on the highway the night before I had to leave for 8 months. Couldn't get the donut on because a nut was seized on. Great way to spend my last night home. Anyway, even hammering on a one of those special sockets with the teeth to really eat into it for removal did not work, it just stripped more (POS lugnuts!) Eventually, after I returned home, I had it drilled out through the stud.
#30
Okay, I've got another idea. Let's call this one Plan B. Find a deepwell 3/8" drive socket that fits over the stud. Using a grinder, form some teeth on the end of the socket. Angle the teeth to dig in when rotating counterclockwise, sort of like a hole saw in reverse.
Next, get one of these, known in aviation as a screw knocker:
"Old Man" Screw Knocker/Remover Size: 8"
That is a special tool that fits into a pneumatic air hammer or rivet gun. If you don't have an air hammer, even a cheap one will do. The air hammer will drive the teeth (on the end of the socket) into the remains of the nut and hopefully get a half-decent grip. While applying impact force with the air hammer, turn the handle on the tool. You may need to use a short cheater bar. A helper may come in handy, too.
The impact force from the air hammer, pounding directly on the broken nut, will hopefully vibrate it loose. In aviation circles (my day job), we use a screw knocker to break stubborn fasteners loose. They work almost every time, even on screw heads that look totally stripped out. You would be amazed at what they can do. It would definitely be worth a try as long as you can modify a deepwell socket to give it some teeth on the end.
Next, get one of these, known in aviation as a screw knocker:
"Old Man" Screw Knocker/Remover Size: 8"
That is a special tool that fits into a pneumatic air hammer or rivet gun. If you don't have an air hammer, even a cheap one will do. The air hammer will drive the teeth (on the end of the socket) into the remains of the nut and hopefully get a half-decent grip. While applying impact force with the air hammer, turn the handle on the tool. You may need to use a short cheater bar. A helper may come in handy, too.
The impact force from the air hammer, pounding directly on the broken nut, will hopefully vibrate it loose. In aviation circles (my day job), we use a screw knocker to break stubborn fasteners loose. They work almost every time, even on screw heads that look totally stripped out. You would be amazed at what they can do. It would definitely be worth a try as long as you can modify a deepwell socket to give it some teeth on the end.
#31
If you are in this deep, here is what I would do.
Get a hole saw that is close to the OD of the wheel stud. Center punch the wheel stud so the center bit of the hole saw does not walk. Then carefully cut the lug nut off the stud. The remaining thin shell of metal still around the wheel stud will be easier to peel off and you will have some room to work. I hope you don’t damage the rim too badly.
It will damage the stud but after seeing your pictures I would plan on replacing it after you get the wheel off anyway.
This can be a real SOB to repair so you are not doing anything wrong. It's just hard to fix!
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Get a hole saw that is close to the OD of the wheel stud. Center punch the wheel stud so the center bit of the hole saw does not walk. Then carefully cut the lug nut off the stud. The remaining thin shell of metal still around the wheel stud will be easier to peel off and you will have some room to work. I hope you don’t damage the rim too badly.
It will damage the stud but after seeing your pictures I would plan on replacing it after you get the wheel off anyway.
This can be a real SOB to repair so you are not doing anything wrong. It's just hard to fix!
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Norri (12-04-2013)
#32
If you are in this deep, here is what I would do.
Get a hole saw that is close to the OD of the wheel stud. Center punch the wheel stud so the center bit of the hole saw does not walk.
.
Get a hole saw that is close to the OD of the wheel stud. Center punch the wheel stud so the center bit of the hole saw does not walk.
.
Assuming the wheel has some minor damage now, don't despair. Much to my surprise, the nice folks at Coventry included a full size spare. Use the damaged rim as your spare, and it should be just fine for limited use if ever needed.
#34
thanks guys. I cant say it enough how much I appreciate this blog and its fellow bloggers. as you can see in this pic what im trying to get through is the two locking washers that are still on the core of the Lug Nut. once off I can get the bolt remover on the reaming core and hopefully get it off. I will try some of the ideas (all are great, I don't have a full shop) so im limited to basic stuff.
Keep you posted and I hope to return in victory.
also good call on the full size spare in the trunk, so I can get a bit aggressive on the rim and I have a 100% perfect on in the trunk to use.
2002jeff
Keep you posted and I hope to return in victory.
also good call on the full size spare in the trunk, so I can get a bit aggressive on the rim and I have a 100% perfect on in the trunk to use.
2002jeff
#35
let me just say how much I love this Blog. you guys are great. WELL.....I did get the Erwin bolt remover kit, but it did not fit. the remaining nut was too big. so I thought I would use my chisel to break loose the rest of the nut so I could use the bolt/nut remover kit. not the right choice. instead of breaking the remainder free all I did was mash it around. the metal is way to hard for a that. now the drilling it out is a good idea but now I might have really messed up the threads. so now no laughing but I will show what it looks like now. also I got a bit mad that my idea was not working so... as most of us do. I started hitting it harder....hay Im a guy. I also figured the lug nut was cracked at the last installation, because it broke free with very little effort. love the idea of making a jig for drilling the LUG but will try to drill the reaming of the nut first. so many other items on this car were such an easy fix with the vast knowledge of this board I guess I got a bit cocky and might have messed this up royally.
Needless to say I have the 1 piece units on the wheels now...
#36
Even the 1-piece lug nuts won't save you from the "mechanics" over here who torque things so high with their air guns. People get snapped studs!! Needs to be illegal, frankly.
Only way is to know these dangerous idiots exist, then you know to make sure anyone fitting a wheel tightens to spec.
Only way is to know these dangerous idiots exist, then you know to make sure anyone fitting a wheel tightens to spec.
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Jumpin' Jag Flash (12-05-2013)
#37
Originally Posted by Davie
That was then and this is now. Between then and now, that's a different story!
With a matter of days before being pointed south and launched into the unknown, I was still running around 'fixing' stuff. New wiper blades for the front at a whopping £1.76p each and another trip the the breakers in search of a n/s/f washer jet, an o/s/f mirror assembly and a spare wheel. Washer jet sorted, mirror assembly remained elusive and spare wheel... well I kinda got lucky and happened across these,
Ok, so not exactly required but given they were shod with four matching Bridgestone Potenzas (rear are as new) all round and my original alloys were properlly scabby, plus the fact they wanted £40 for a single wheel / tyre, these made sense. If nothing else, I figured I could sell them on. Cue the wails for the "OMG! Part worns. You'll die" brigade. I also found one of those handy under boot storage trays. Job done.
Next, replace the worn o/s/f rack end that had been highlighted in the MoT. Wasn't critical but it was a bit wandery on the motorway so with 1,000+ ahead, for the want of £13.00 it made sense to replace it. It also made sense to chuck the wee man at Kerbside Motors £20 to fit in, which I'm glad a dig as he made short work of the seized track rod end and the mega tight inner streeing arm with some fancy tools. A further £20 to have the geometry checked and adjusted and we were cooking with gas.
Or not... I also asked him to remove the locking nuts a) they're **** b) who steals wheels these days and c) I didn't fancy fannying around at 3am, in the rain at the side of the M6 with a puncture. And that's where it all went wrong. Three came out no problem, the fourth - not a chance. 2hrs of power bats, air guns, impact drivers, swearing and even the proper RAC / AA approved tool and the nut was refusing to move.
Google suggested McGard do a drill out kit, in essence three sleeves with a progressively larger hole in the centre so you can drill out the locker whilst remaining central. Only issue, it was Saturday and I was leaving on the Monday. A mercy call went out and saw me armed with some insanely sharp drill bits and a man sized power drill. 2hrs later and I'd made a 2mm deep hole. I swore a lot and considered calling Enterprise. Final attempt, remove all the other nuts and drive the car in a circle hoping it'd a) stretch the bolt or b) distort the seat in the alloy and thus relieve some pressure. Did it work? Did it fu...
Dummy well and truly spat out the pram, final mercy call went out and it was off to see a mate of a mate who again had a crack with the pukka lock nut kit - ie the one that you leather a brass (?) stud down into the locker, thet then forms to the pattern and then in theory with a few smacks and an impact driver, job done. Always works, yet to have one that didn't come out. First for everything. I sukled some more.
Decision time, do we heat the bolt from the back but risk damaging the bearing and associated parts or simply admit defeat and keep drilling. I looked at the new wheels in the boot, looked at the scabby original alloy that was sat there, sneering at me...
Now, again those from an engineering / OCD / Daily Mail background, look away now...
Lock nut removal, the man's method. £25.00 and one wheel lighter, the four replacement alloys were on, one of the best original ones took up residence as a spare and with the tank filled it was M74 bound, next stop Bristol. 5hrs (ish) later and from there onto Devon. Couple of days doing best man duties then back to Bristol, quick visit to the city centre for old times sake and then it was aim north and back to base George and don't spare the horses.
Granted, it's now a sort of dark grey colour and the interior smells a bit iffy but I somewhat astounded to say it never once missed a beat. Compared to the old V70 diesel, it's infinitely more refined and comfortable and despite the guff-o-matic box, it seemingly returned 27mpg for the entire 1150 mile trip, which isn't that bad given it sat at a steady 80ish for the majority of the trip plus did a good few cross country miles into north Devon. Oil useage was nil, coolant useage was nil, AA useage was nil.
Few wee niggles to sort - rear 12v socket doesn't work so it was a constant battle to keep the DVD / phones charged,. Really need an o/s/f mirror assembly and the n/s/f headlight as filled with condensation for some reason. Nothing major though. It's now being drafted into daily commute / school run mode then it's back to Devon in three weeks again.
I'm actually quite attached to it now, so much so it's since earned it's place and thus has been named Helga... much like the previous five Volvos.
#40
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Jumpin' Jag Flash (12-06-2013)