Battery light? Is that the one that indicates whether charging is occurring? If it stays lit it likely means dead alternator. Anything in the owner's handbook about it?

 

Did you fully charge the new battery for 24 hours before fitting as new batteries arnt fully charged

 

As of saturday alternator was putting out 14.25 volts.

 

I will put it on a charger today

 

Where and how do I set up my garage? Thank you

 

Is the voltage you checked coming across the battery terminals with the engine running?

Have you checked actual voltage coming off the alternator? 14.25 volts seems a little high at the battery. I have seen these alternators put out between 13.40 - 13.70 volts at idle.

The voltage regulator inside the alternator may be shot - sending excessive voltage out of the alternator, hence the battery light and fried battery. Just my $0.02

 

On engine start the PCM sets a higher voltage for a while, then sets a normal one later. Details in JTIS. Sounds normal.

 

I took the car on a 50 mile trip today. It ran great even though DSC fault light,traction control light, Abs, brake and battery light were all on. Turned the car off after about 25 miles. car sat for about 15 minutes. Restarted the car and all lights but battery went out. On the way home all the above lights came back on. Looks like I need an alternator. I did charge the battery overnight.I won't be able to one on till next month. A big thanks to everyone for your help.

 

14.25 volts is the correct output from the alternator; that's what it takes to charge them properly. I would suspect the warning light connection on the alternator. I think you have 2 separate problems, and the DSC/trac control errors could be cured by cleaning the wheel sensors and checking for breaks in the wiring.

 

Just wanted to post an update on my 200 S-type DSC fault code, it's still on. Battery light was a fuse problem. There was no fuse in the alternator sensor slot. Dsc fault code, ABS and brake lights are still on. I took the car on a 200 mile trip on saturday and it ran flawless and everything worked fine. I did end up with rock chip in the windshield which was a 2' crack by sunday morning. I will try to get to the wheel sensors by this weekend.I will update you all if and when I figure this thing out. P.S. Altornator and battery are working fine at 14.25 volts after warm up at the battery. Thanks for all the help that you given.

 

I have cleaned the rear sensors and that did not help. I don't know the name of the part that the sensor was bolted to, looked like a gear or cog. It is rusty, does it need to be cleaned? Do I have to remove the front wheel,calipers and brake rotors to get to the front sensors and do they unplug? Sorry it takes me so long to respond, I had rotator cuff surgery in Feb and still have to take it slow.Again, you have been very helpful and I thank you. P.S. New Pilkington windshield installed last week.

 

Do you have access to a reader that can pull the ABS "C" code(s)

The front hub speed sensors do disconnect from the hub. If you get the front end high enough with the front wheels off you should have enough access to pull the front speed sensors off for inspection.

They should be clean. Any sign of metal fragments or grease on the sensors itself is an issue pointing to a failing hub assembly.

As far as the ring gear being rusty - shouldn't be an issue.

 

I had an OBDII scanner on it and it showed no fault codes. I haven't had the front wheels off yet.

 

A standard reader won't read abs faults, you need something like the mongoose

 

as already mentioned - you need access to a diagnostic reader that can access the ABS Module. Unfortunately, your ABS issue can be related other than the speed sensors. Obtaining the code(s) will point you in the right direction.

 

I will pull the front wheels off and have a look. If I can't visually see anything I will have to take to someone with a proper scanner. I did call the local Jaguar dealer and it would cost $130.00, I will call some independent shops before I go there.

 

I'm thinking that it might be cheaper to buy a code scanner for myself, that way it could have one handy. I saw the member approved list and there were none listed for a 2002 s-type. I did see the mongoose on ebay for 2005 and up. If someone could give me some advice it would be much appreciated.

 

I just had my Jaguar scanned and the results showed; B 1342 control module internal failure, B 2477 control module configuration failure. Is this the ABS module? I'm still researching these codes.

 

I just did some research on the codes. There are 17 B1342 and 15 B2477 codes.

 

Each code is stored in a module. Each module can have zero or more codes. Some codes do not occur in some modules because they don't make sense.

So, they fetched each of those codes from one or more modules - and should have said which ones they got from where.

However, since you've had DSC issues chances are they did get them from the ABS/DSC module. You can see the codes and their known causes in JTIS - free download from this site.

On the above assumption:
B1342 is module failure
B2477 says module incorrectly configured & to replace it

Now... it might reprogram and it could perhaps be a failing battery.

On some cars (Fords & Jags etc) the modules have had dry solder joints and they can be repaired. DIY if you can solder, if it's that.

Also, you can sometimes get a module repaired by the likes of bba-reman