I have a 2003 jaguar s-type 3.0/v6 with an intermittent overheating problem.
I have noticied that you cannot get the cooling fan module/controller separate from the cooling fan.
It was discontinued and if i am correct you must purchase the whole cooling fan assembly.
My question is that when buying the cooling fan, does it come with module/controller?
Also does anyone recommend the Flex A LIte cooling fans and do they come with module/controller?
joe

 

That sounds about right. Several years ago, The fan stopped working on my '02 and that's what I found at the time.

For your situation, I highly suspect the controller is fine. Even from several thousand miles away in my recliner, I bet you will find the brushes worn out on the motor. Those are normal wear and tear items, and will typically fail long before anything else in the system, including the controller.

Here's what I found on my car. Not sure how different your later model would be. Initially I thought the fan wasn't getting the command to run, but it turns out the motor was shot:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...-gauge-159542/

That motor was beyond saving. Unfortunately, I couldn't find a new motor by itself. This was annoying, as you could easily get an inexpensive replacement for most other cars. I purchased a used motor on eBay and replaced the brushes. That was several years ago and it is still going strong.

 

I forgot to ask: What are the symptoms of this intermittent problem? When my fan failed, all was good as long as I kept moving above 30 MPH or so, meaning good airflow through the radiator. Below that, with no fan to help draw air, the temperature would climb. As soon as I got above 30 again, the temp would drop to normal.

If you're seeing different symptoms, it's probably caused by something other than the fan.

 

Thanks for answering my post.
This happened to me about 50 to 55 days each time I would drive about 30 mph or less stop and go traffic and all of a sudden my gauge temperature gauge the needle will go right to the red zone in the middle of my dash a light would come on high temperature and of course the car would slow down automatically where I would not move too fast at all it never actually overheated but I guess it would have overheated if I kept driving I pulled over turned it off for about 10 minutes started the car back up and then it went away while the car was in the red hot zone of my temperature gauge I opened the hood as it was running the fan did not come on my mechanic says it's either the fan or the module he wants to replace both but I guess the mechanic doesn't realize that the module is not sold separately anymore it's built into the fan assembly I think like I had asked so I cannot take this car for long drives thank God I stay locally but I have to have it fixed.

 

Well, your symptoms certainly sound like a problem with the radiator fan. Thanks for humoring me and elaborating on the details.

Before digging too deeply, you have a couple of fuses to check. Wiring diagrams here, see figure 03.2:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Elec...al%20Guide.pdf

The cooling fan system has two power sources:

In the front power distribution box, fuse F13 supplies the power to run the fan. This is a big fuse, 80 amps. If this one has blown, definitely investigate why.

In the same box, fuse F13 is a smaller fuse that supplies power to the control circuit. This fuse also supplies a few other circuits, such as the AC compressor clutch. If this fuse has blown, your AC would be inop, but depending on the weather you may not have noticed this.

If the fuses check normal, I'm still leaning towards the fan motor instead of the controller. The motor is a moving part, and in my over-inflated opinion, is way more likely to fail versus a solid-state controller. Once you remove the fan motor (I think you have to remove the entire shroud), you can easily test it by checking for continuity between the two terminals on the motor. Resist the urge to hotwire the motor on the workbench with the fan still installed, as the motor puts out a lot of torque and it would probably take off like an angry helicopter. You should be safe enough to try the motor with the fan removed.

I poked around again, trying to find an aftermarket replacement for the fan motor. If you find something, please update the thread with the info. Otherwise your choices are probably new OEM ($$$) or used from eBay or similar. If you go used, install a new set of brushes as the old ones will likely be quite worn. Watch out as any used motor will be VERY messy inside from all that carbon dust. Disassemble it over a disposable work surface such as an old towel. I do not care to discuss how I learned this...

 

Almost forgot to warn you: The temperature gauge is deliberately misleading. From about 180 to 230F, the needle stays centered no matter the actual temperature. Once you exceed that range, the needle starts to climb, so it's easy to miss an impending overheat. A scanner is much preferred, as you can read the raw data and see if the temperature is climbing long before the factory gauge will tell you.

 

Thank you for all your input and help I really appreciate it I definitely did change the fuses and relay the 80 amp relay in the engine compartment fuse box and the fuse. And 55 days later it did the same thing run hot fan stopped working so that's why I'm going to have to let the mechanic take over but thank you for all your input.
Joe