Wow.... I just did a quick look up on Jaguarparts.com to see if they had one of those handy/dandy drawings along with the parts listing.... So, I found various parts for the Anti-Theft system under Electrical / Body Electrical / Anti-Theft... There is a receiver listed... but only for the XJ when I look it up... So, there is a control module as well. Here is where it gets weird.... "for coupe and convertible" OVER A GRAND! For "sedans with sunroof" it's $89.00 ???????? I would get hold of a dealer.. If they give you a hard time, go to Jaguarparts.com and just call them. That site is run by Jaguar Cleveland, and as I've said before.... They are great to deal with. I'm sure someone in the parts department would be able to help.

 

Thanks JOsworth I've gotten parts from them before.

 

Boy lots of testoserone around here
theres nothing wrong with using a memory saver through the cig plug. But we fix alot of module lockups with hard reset of batteries to discharge capacitors that hold volatile memory. This does the exact same thing as calling tech support in India and being told to unplug from the wall, then restart. It resets defaults on not only your PC, but car as well. Disconnect the postive cable from the battery, touch to the still connected negative cable. This discharges all the cars volatile capacitors that retain memeory and screwed up function. No it wont clear codes as white pointed out. The 30 year old crap from the 80's when ck engine lights first came out. ODBII mandates you cannot clear codes without a scanner(auto stores are not to do it either and can be fined big time if theyre caught in a sting without fixing the problem) and if emmission related it will retain in memory regardless. (there is a threshold of key cycles that if no longer a problem but dont ask me how many I dont know, alot!)
Its not uncommon to loose both remotes, static electricity is a mother to circuit boards and that what they have in them. You CANNOT backdoor program Stype remotes( I hate it) I can do all other cars, but no year Stype has a back door through security. DEALER only, I like Petron, or Jose Cuervo!!!
Do you have switch blade keyfobs or the square ones? I have 2 new switch blades. But I keep getting asked by people to buy and they never do so....

 

Brutal I disconnected the positive lead from the battery and touched the negative post for about 15 seconds, then re-connected the red lead.

Once I open the door the alarm sounded and went off once I put the key in the ignition and started the car. The clock was reset and I needed to reset. The radio still had all the presets.

I shut the car and tried the key fob...Still nothing on any button. By the way I have switch blade fobs.

Given that you are a Jag tech can you tell what else I can do before bringing the car in to a Jag dealer.

 

So is the key fob receiver a separate control module or part of another and what's its location?

If I knew I could see if the connect may be loose or out.

 

Is this supposed to be a pissn match? cause if so I got better stuff Like $ paying work to do. If you think pulling the battery down takes down everything. Put your face in front of the air bag, and have someone hit the frontal crash sensor with the battery unhooked. then send me a pic of your black eyes. And modules, tcm, ecu, abs, ddm, seat modules etc all "compute" through input/output and processors. They all have capacitors(mini batteries) to retain volatile(erasable) memory with a battery disconnect so you dont loose things like long term fuel trims. transmission adaptation etc... how do you discharge a battery, right, provide a path to ground. I know lots of independant Jag tech and shops in the area, and they all have to have the Stypes sent over here to program keys and other functions too. unless you buy a IDS and the software to go with no one is gonna be able to help n those regards. You can buy them, but theyre expensive and not even the independants that work on Jags all day feel the cost justifies the return. But then again you seem to have all the answers.........

 

Haha thank you BRUTAL someone needed to say it and I must say you did so quite eloquently..

danielsatur: What automotive accreditation or certifications do you have to validate your statements. I personally think a Jaguar Master Tech may be a bit more up to this task than yourself. From your posts it sounds like the last time you worked on was a mustang 5.0 back in the 80's.

 

Brutal thanks for the information. So based on your post if the problem is the Key fob it needs to be reprogrammed and I MUST take it to a Jaguar repair shop to get them reprogrammed again, there's no way around it.

Now my question is: how can I make sure that its not another problem such as a defective receiver or the module connector or power supply loose. SO can you tell me the location of the receiver module and which fuse provides power to it? I just want to make sure it's not a blown fuse or loose connector.

Thanks for any clarification you can give me. By the way I also have a problem with the dipping headlights and I will try to do your repair I found you posted on the forum.

 

BRUTAL: Beautiful! I can't get the "airbag" visual out of my head! You rule!

Please someone tell Gessie where the control module is so he can check the connections..

Gessie... I tried.. Will do a search for you tonight on JTIS, but that can be a PIA to navigate.. Plus I have to take care of the three kids first..But I will look when I can if no one else posts before then.

 

JOSworth I tried to find it in JTIS issue 21 and could not find anything on the receiver I'll look again.

 

Gessie - you can check all fuses fairly quickly. (Don't trust the values given in jtis, if in doubt stick to what's now in or your handbook.)

JTIS is quite light on security stuff for the obvious reason.

If you may have had the battery out of a fob for more than a short time (can't recall if 30s or 2mins) it's lost its sync with the car. Then it's dealer time to resync it. They have to do quite a painful job, which is why it costs money.

The receiver is likely to be highish up else it wouldn't see the fob (metal body would shield it). They fail so rarely that I suspect it'll be the fobs and battery changes.

But follow whatever Brutal says (unless he's having a joke... loved the latest one!).

 

JOsworth I think I found the module it's the Driver Door Module (DDM) which is located in the driver door behind the trim panel.

It controls:

Door window motor and regulator - My windows work
Exterior rear view mirror movement - My works
Keyless entry - That's what does not work
Global closing - does not work from my key fob but it does work from inside the car on the dashboard button
Drivers door locking/unlocking - It work from inside the car but not with the key fob.

So... since everything else works the Key Fobs are the only thing that need reprogramming. I'll make an appointment with a Jaguar repair shop that can do it.

Thanks to all the input from everyone, its great to have a place to bounce thing off others who may have had the same problem or are experts in the S type R.

 

Gessie - you may be able to do global closing (or opening) with the key. I can't recall if I've tried this with the jag, but you can probably put the key in the lock and hold it in the lock (or unlock) position (i.e. against the slight spring which tries to return it to the central position). If you hold it long enough it'll global close (or open). Well, it does on several cars but as I say I don't recall if the jag does.

 

jagv8 - I read your post and went out and tried the global closing/opening with the key in the door and it works. So it's only my Key FOBS that don't work.

Thanks for the info.

 

Well i type a paragraph earlier on this and it never posted(program not responding, damn windows) so i lost all that typing. Yes the drviers door module handles that, if you can global open/close with the key then its not a fuse, or the module, and or the security locking module either. I would however buy 2 new key fobs. Go have the dealer program all 4(2 old and new) while you may get them to program i have done this before and the customer comes back needing remotes and another programming fee. Or you can go in to the dealer, have them program the old ones, if they wont then they can get the new ones(costly) with the programmer still hooked up...assuming they have them in stock. You have 5 slots avail to program remotes to. Deleting all first. Of course you can still do it the old fashion way....use the key

 

Brutal given my age I used keys until the late 90's. The only item I like is having the remote is for the trunk when going with my wife shopping.

Thanks for your help I'm sure I'll have other problems in the future you can be of assistance in solving.

 

WELL THEN PROBLEM SOLVED. WHEN THEY ASK "WOULD YOU LIKE HELP TO YOU CAR WITH YOUR ITEMS?" SAY YES AND HAND THEM THE KEYS AND A COUPLE BUCKS. THEY CAN OPEN THE TRUNK FOR YOU AND THE COST OF THOSE REMOTES WILL PAY FOR ALOT OF TIPS TO COLLEGE KIDS

 

Hey Gessie.....was the dealer re-program of the key fobs ultimately the solution to the problem? I'm still jerkin around using the key to open the drivers door manually and it's getting old. I replaced the fob battery, cleaned the contacts with alcohol, checked to see if there is a dedicated fuse (there isnt). I did read on another post when I first had the problem that the cause could be ignition switch related. Something to do with a "flap" in the switch getting hung up, thus the car doesnt recognize that the key was removed and thus it wont work. I actually fiddled with the ignition switch and cleaned it up with wd40 and the remote actualy worked. It's not helping this time. Tks.