Hahahahahahaha

No, you bought a Chinese clone interface, with the same offline username & password that everyone else got from JLR back in the day.

How can anyone think they are getting a genuine device for £70, when they usually retail for £450 without software, because you cannot purchase genuine software like that either...

 

Exactly. I mistakenly purchased a clone and got rid of it like a hot potato. Only genuine....

 

I also got a "Mangoose" cable and have read Cambo's warning before. Have not hooked up to the car yet because of this fear.

I really wish that Drew Tech cable would come down in price! It's just so expensive but does seem to be guaranteed to work.
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What I've found in relation to 2003 S-type Cables:

• Nearly all Chinese clones have dropped pre-2005 vehicle support, this includes VCM, VCM2, VCI, and Mongoose/Mongoose Pro, and aftermarket tools like the VXDiag Nano, and Da-Vinci.
• Many authentic looking VCM cables sold as original authentic VCM cables only say they support 2005 and later, indicating to me they are later model VCM clones.
• There is a $400 VCI cable that the Chinese claim will work with a 2003 s-type and IDS: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/pro...5733480b334yrY (No user reports - haven't tested as I would buy Drew-Tech First).
• There are plenty of reports of Mongoose Clones that worked with pre-2005 clones, but nothing I could find that has been sold in the last 2 years, except for the BritishDiagnostics Mongoose Pro(Clone) device.
• The Drew-Tech Authentic Mongoose Pro is supposed to work: "The Mongoose Pro JLR includes a J2534 driver and delivers full-speed (12mps) USB 2.0 performance. This version is compatible with late model J2534 compliant Jaguar & Land Rover models. This includes 1999 & Up Jaguar and 2005 & up Land Rover, requires a subscription to IDS version 125 & up"
• BritishDiagnostics Claims full support of the 2003 s-type in line with the original Drew-Tech Mongoose Pro Claims: car compatibility | Jaguar & Land Rover Diagnostics

Re-Programming can be dangerous with or without reliable equipment, but likely should be reserved authentic equipment by people who know what they are doing.
Reading codes, clearing codes, and programming key transponders and FOBs seam to be relatively safe with good clones.
This being said, there have been some reports of burning out modules just by plugging in a cloned cable, but much more often high functionality until the cable just stops working.

I have gotten the version JLR IDS SDD 130 that previously wouldn't launch IDS... now working correctly by doing a fresh install: Setting the date to Aug 1 2012 doing a fresh install of XP SP2, installing service pack 3, turning off internet, installing the software while the date was set to Aug 1 2012, and always running the software without internet with the date set to Aug 1 2012.

I'm going the BritishDiagnostics approach as they have been responsive to email, offer support, offer devices that still support my car, are within my budget, and I don't plan of full module reprogramming. Also, I have not seen any reports of module or computer frying reports on cables bought from them. Worst I've found is cable from them that only lasted a couple years.

 

I've used a cloned mangoose and software. It Decided to wipe my keys and lock the steering column. Main reason I think was as others have said low car battery. The way the ids powers things on and off drains batteries very quickly.

Luckily I remembered my dealer training and got around it. Simply wiping and programming the keys had no effect.
I now use it only when laptop on mains plug and car on charger.
I have reset gearbox adaptations which helped with harsh changes.
I have read and cleared airbag codes.

I do use it with caution and won't reflash ecm unless I have a genuine reason to.

On a side note my dad has an early xk8 n.a. that I've converted to manual and the above software reverts back to WDS/IDS when the vin number is entered. Very handy reading stuff on datalogger and used it for clearing codes in all modules. Including transmission module with piggy back gearbox interface.

 

I am in Holiday 34691 north of you and just saw your posts.. I have a flawless looking 90k miles 2003 s type I bought at a auction online in Georgia..I have Only 1 key and a non working remote. I have a computer background also just not as advanced as you. I’m setting up a laptop to fix/ check abs codes and I want to program 2 new keys and remotes. I was curious what adapter you eventually went with. I’m going to be using ids add v130 I think..but wanted to know the cheapest compatible adapter/software version that works on this car which I think is the exact one you had. I just don’t wanna use the wrong adapter/cable software and have a error erasing my keys

 

I got both the British Diagnostics and the Chinese JLR Mongoose Clone and the both seam to perform exactly the same. Neither will properly read my door module nor program keys. There may however be a problem with my door module. My key fob opens the trunk but nothing happens when you try to unlock or lock the doors, potentially indicating a door module problem as well.

I use the 130 SDD software which includes IDS. IDS is what is used for our cars. 130 SDD fresh install in a virtual is the only thing that has worked consistently for me. I've tried using other's VM images that didn't end up working. I've tried versions above 130 and below 130 but haven't gotten them working so I would strongly recommend a fresh setup of 130 like in my last post. I've successfully set this up on a windows 7 host and a windows 10 host with a windows XP virtual machine with SDD on it.

ABS codes worked fine with both the British Diagnostic Clone and the Chinese Clone. That being said I've had 3 ABS Wheel Speed sensors go so far, all on the back wheels and a generic code reader properly identified the correct wheel speed sensor as the problem all three times. No reset was needed to clear the Speed Sensor codes. After replacing it and driving the car a few feet the code cleared themselves; ABS and Cruise control started working immediately. I spent about $15 per new replacement sensor.

I recently purchased an ELM bluetooth adapter that will be my first stop for diagnostics as nearly every issue has been resolvable without the need for SDD and SDD can be a pain to get running the first time.

So back to the keys... I'm looking to get to the Junk yard in the next few months and hoping to hook my SDD software up to a couple other cars to see what happens with the key programming on them... and if they read the correct modules and it looks like it will work I will pull the modules from the junk yard and try to install them in my car. If not I may just pay someone... around hear I found $100 per key to cut and program the key FOB. (I may even try to reprogram the modules to my car in the junk yard before pulling them from the junk yard.)

Another tip for this car is always check relays related to your issue. I had a handful of rear lights fail due to a bad relay, and a fuel system issue that was intermittent and caused by a relay. Other than that I've only had to replace a handful of sensors and one coil that effected the running of the car. I also replaced all 4 struts and a wheel bearing in a couple hours 1 afternoon and the struts where a huge improvement for handling.