That's strange. T15 is too small. T 20 is too big. Am I missing something as Torx seems to have six points and the but on the Maf seems to have five. Is the picture I put up of a Maf or something else?

 

Is that a Maf in the picture I posted guys? I have tried a Torx 15 and 20. One too small, the other too big. Any suggestions?

 

Russell11 - I looked at the picture again. There are variants to torx screws. The information is below. Looks like you have a tamper proof variant torx screw since it has 5 lobes.

I would take a hex wrench and try to loosen it. (This is what I would do - I am not by any means suggesting you do this - these screws are tamper resistant for a reason I guess) Read on below and Good Luck!

• A version known as Security Torx, Tamper-Resistant Torx (often shortened to Torx TR) or pin-in-Torx contains a post in the center of the head that prevents a standard Torx driver (or a straight screwdriver) from being inserted.

• An external Torx version exists, where the screw head has the shape of a Torx screwdriver bit, and a special Torx socket is used to drive it, although a standard hex socket can often be used. These are found primarily on automobile engines.

• A Torx variant, Torx Plus, introduced about 1990 when the original Torx patent was expiring, is designed to allow greater torque, and to minimize wear.[7] The specifications for these licenses are held by Textron. Standard Torx drivers can be used to drive Torx Plus screws, but not to full torque because of the loose fit. Torx Plus drivers will not fit standard Torx screws. They are shortened to "Torx TX".

• A tamper resistant version of Torx Plus exists, having five lobes rather than six. This is used for tamper resistance, as the drivers are still hard to obtain, and are given the designation, "Torx TS".

 

I believe this is a TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) not a MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor. The TPS is usually not adjustable, hence why the tamper resistant screws are there.

 

NO!!! That is the TPS do not remove.

The MAF is located closer to the air filter box!

See above links

 

Hi. I still have not solved my restricted performance problem. What I have noticed is that a rattling noise comes from the engine just after start up and a very short drive and the engine is giving off a burning/eggy smell when I get out of the car after a journey. Is this a catalytic convertor problem?

Where do I go to to get my car signature on my posts?

Best wishes
Russell

 

Any forum page, top left, "User CP".

I'd check OBD:
1. codes
2. that all monitors are Complete
3. it's running CL (closed loop)
4. fuel trims, at idle & 2500rpm

 

Forgive me for not knowing but how do I carry out steps 2, 3 and 4?

 

With an OBD tool that does live data. BTW, still no signature

 

Thank you Jag V8. I hope my signature now appears. Here goes...

 

Yep!

 

Dear Guys
Pulled the battery out this morning and tested it with $29.99 battery tester. No lights lit up on the tester whereas on two other car batteries I have they registered minimal and medium charge respectively. Could my Jag battery be old enough and low enough to start the engine but still throw up fault codes? Am I right in thinking battery should be changed or am I missing something?

 

Maybe, how old is the battery?

 

Not sure how old battery is. I have had car 18 months and not changed it. Battery has Aston Martin sticker on it. Could it be original from 2002?

 

Well Guys, after nine months of angst I have finally sorted the problem out. I replaced the MAF and low and behold after 500km of driving at legal and illegal speeds there is no RESTRICTED PERFORMANCE light coming on. I cannot tell you how happy I am. My cup runneth over. It is end of the rainbow stuff!

 

For the time being... good deal!

 

Should I be concerned? Your tone makes me think so!

 

Meh...since you have a 2002, you may expect the vacuum elbow buried deep on the left side to start leaking anytime...but seems you've sorted the problem with the MAF change. I had P0171/174 on the 05 3.0L and searched several days for a vac leak. Detecting none, I swapped the MAFs with the 2003 3.0 L. No codes either car for a year, when 171/174 popped on the 2003. Swapped the MAFs back because 2003 had to go back to college, and got no codes either car for 3 wks longer until I got around to installing the new MAF I'd ordered for the 2005. That was a year or so ago.....

Also, go ahead and start a fund for your replacement battery. They cause all manner of light-shows even so they are sufficient to start the car, once they go wobbly.

 

This restricted performance problems see to be a sticky wicket. I too am having intermittent rp indicator come on. My question is if one or more of the coils were bad wouldn't the car display symptom like running rough or misfire? My car runs excellent and I did have a breather tube which had a hole in it and I replaced it. Being an electronic tech, it almost seems like this is a trial and error type of troubleshooting.

 

Mine had intermittent RP, lag on acceleration and sounded like it was misfiring. All these faults appear to have been resolved by replacing the MAF but I agree it seems to be trial and error.