S-Type / S type R Supercharged V8 ( X200 ) 1999 - 2008 2001 - 2009
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

2003 S-type need remote(amp trigger) wire other than the one on the front console

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 04-04-2010, 10:37 PM
magnificus's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Edmonton, Canada
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Exclamation 2003 S-type need remote(amp trigger) wire other than the one on the front console

Hi,
I own a Jaguar S-type 2003 S-type 3.0 V6. I recently ran signal input wires and power wires to an Aftermarket AMP but i'm having trouble hooking up the remote(AMP Trigger) wire. I donot wish to take the whole front console out just for that. I was thinking of hhoking up to the CD changer but I don't know if it has a Switched trigger wire and if it does i don't know which one it is. Does anyone have the solution to my dilema?
 
  #2  
Old 04-06-2010, 07:29 AM
androulakis's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 2,964
Received 507 Likes on 259 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by magnificus
Hi,
I own a Jaguar S-type 2003 S-type 3.0 V6. I recently ran signal input wires and power wires to an Aftermarket AMP but i'm having trouble hooking up the remote(AMP Trigger) wire. I donot wish to take the whole front console out just for that. I was thinking of hhoking up to the CD changer but I don't know if it has a Switched trigger wire and if it does i don't know which one it is. Does anyone have the solution to my dilema?
there is NO remote amp trigger wire coming out of the factory headunit even. Do you have the premium or stock system. The CD changer is turned on via D2B data bus. So is the Alpine amp if you had it. There is ignition switched +12v at the rear electronics module - passenger side rear corner of the trunk mounted on a metal bracket. If you insist of finding a source in the trunk. Where did you tap your signal / RCA wires from? You could use that but the amps would turn on / off with the ignition, not with the radio.

These Jag headunits weren't exactly designed with aftermarket integration in mind.

Some amps also have a "signal sensing" turn on and off, but I don't know that your amp does, and from my experience they don't work all that well.

George
 
  #3  
Old 04-06-2010, 06:58 PM
magnificus's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Edmonton, Canada
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by androulakis
there is NO remote amp trigger wire coming out of the factory headunit even. Do you have the premium or stock system. The CD changer is turned on via D2B data bus. So is the Alpine amp if you had it. There is ignition switched +12v at the rear electronics module - passenger side rear corner of the trunk mounted on a metal bracket. If you insist of finding a source in the trunk. Where did you tap your signal / RCA wires from? You could use that but the amps would turn on / off with the ignition, not with the radio.

These Jag headunits weren't exactly designed with aftermarket integration in mind.

Some amps also have a "signal sensing" turn on and off, but I don't know that your amp does, and from my experience they don't work all that well.

George
Thanks for the reply,

I believe I have the stock stereo since I don't see any branding on the head unit nor on the side speaker covers

I tapped the Signal wires straight to the speakers inside the door.I ran the wires along with the vehicle cables al the way to the middle where the seatbelts are. then i ran the cable through the rubber that surounds the the factory wires that go to the door and I tapped right at the rear speakers.(I'm doing high -> Low level input conversion).
Now, if i tap with the "remote" wire into one for the signal cables(RCA), therefore into the rear speakers, would I affect the quality of the audio signal comming to the amp ? If yes, I would be able to hook up a 2 Micro-farad nonpolarised capacitor; However I have no idea what the "remote" relay expects to switch the amp on (ex: amperage, is it DC or AC)?
Any ideea?

Thanks,
Adrian
 

Last edited by magnificus; 04-06-2010 at 07:28 PM. Reason: forgot to put my name
  #4  
Old 04-06-2010, 07:40 PM
androulakis's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 2,964
Received 507 Likes on 259 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by magnificus
Thanks for the reply,

I believe have the stock stereo since I don't see and brand on the head unit nor on the side speaker covers

I tapped the Signal wires straight to the speakers inside the door.I ran the wires along with the vehicle cables al the way to the middle where the seatbelts are. then i ran the cable through the rubber that surounds the the factory wires that go to the door and I tapped right at the rear speakers.(I'm doing high -> Low level input conversion).
Now, if i tap into one for the signal cables(RCA), therefore into the rear seakers, would that affect the quality of the audio signal comming to the amp? If yes, I would be able to hook up a 2 Micro-farad nonpolarised capacitor; However I have no idea what the "remote" relay expects to switch the amp on (ex: amperage, is it DC or AC)?
Any ideea?

Thanks,
Adrian
Ok slow down. First thing's first.

Tapping into to the speaker wires, is fine for a high / low converter. It wont affect anything.

There is no AC voltage in a modern car(well besides in the alternator, but that's irrelevant) , they are 12v DC negative ground.

The remote turn on wire is basically a switch, when there is +12v dc present the amp is on, when there is no voltage present the amp turns off.

Most radios have a "remote turn on wire" where it has +12v when the radio is on, and nothing when the radio is off. So it turns the amp on only when needed. Now in the absence of a true remote turn on, the next best thing is ignition switched power. Basically the amp will be on whenever the car is running, and off whenever it is not.

Now there is no such thing that I have ever seen as a non polarized 2 farad cap. Caps are basically really fast draining batteries. What they are designed to do is supplement the cars battery when there are large current draws due to momentary transients (big bass notes), so there is no voltage drop. (The headlights don't blink when the bass hits). All capacitors that big are polarized - meaning they have a + and - terminal. They also have to be properly charged before being installed as well. If you hook it up backwards, it will explode, and no, I'm NOT kidding.

go on the12volt.com and read about stiffening capacitors. Read about how they work and how to charge them and make sure you understand before you go messing with one.

If what I said above doesn't make sense, please take the car to someone who know what they are doing to install the stuff for you before you ruin a battery, alternator, or worse.

George
 
  #5  
Old 04-06-2010, 10:12 PM
magnificus's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Edmonton, Canada
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by androulakis
Ok slow down. First thing's first.

Tapping into to the speaker wires, is fine for a high / low converter. It wont affect anything.

There is no AC voltage in a modern car(well besides in the alternator, but that's irrelevant) , they are 12v DC negative ground.

The remote turn on wire is basically a switch, when there is +12v dc present the amp is on, when there is no voltage present the amp turns off.

Most radios have a "remote turn on wire" where it has +12v when the radio is on, and nothing when the radio is off. So it turns the amp on only when needed. Now in the absence of a true remote turn on, the next best thing is ignition switched power. Basically the amp will be on whenever the car is running, and off whenever it is not.

Now there is no such thing that I have ever seen as a non polarized 2 farad cap. Caps are basically really fast draining batteries. What they are designed to do is supplement the cars battery when there are large current draws due to momentary transients (big bass notes), so there is no voltage drop. (The headlights don't blink when the bass hits). All capacitors that big are polarized - meaning they have a + and - terminal. They also have to be properly charged before being installed as well. If you hook it up backwards, it will explode, and no, I'm NOT kidding.

go on the12volt.com and read about stiffening capacitors. Read about how they work and how to charge them and make sure you understand before you go messing with one.

If what I said above doesn't make sense, please take the car to someone who know what they are doing to install the stuff for you before you ruin a battery, alternator, or worse.

George
Hi george,
Thanks for the reply.
the value of the capacitor that i wanted to put in is 2 Micro-Farad or ufarad(they do exist) or you can get a similar value for 2 polarised capacitors, connect the "-" of the capacitors together in series and now you have a nonpolarised capacitor. Anyway it is besides the point and and you are right . There is no power transmitted through a capacitor; i feel like a noob.
But I'm glad I got a good opinion. I'll look for the ingnition switch and take it from there. If anyone knows any other switched power source please let me know

Thanks,
Adrian
 
  #6  
Old 04-06-2010, 10:24 PM
androulakis's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 2,964
Received 507 Likes on 259 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by magnificus
Hi george,
Thanks for the reply.
the value of the capacitor that i wanted to put in is 2 Micro-Farad or ufarad(they do exist) or you can get a similar value for 2 polarised capacitors, connect the "-" of the capacitors together in series and now you have a nonpolarised capacitor. Anyway it is besides the point and and you are right . There is no power transmitted through a capacitor; i feel like a noob.
But I'm glad I got a good opinion. I'll look for the ingnition switch and take it from there. If anyone knows any other switched power source please let me know

Thanks,
Adrian
There is switched + 12v power in the trunk in two places. First at the rear electronics module, second, at the plug for the trunk aux power port.

Sorry I just automatically thought of a stiffening cap and read that as a 2 farad cap, not a 2uf. What would be the purpose of a 2uf non polarized electrolytic? It would only serve as a first order high pass filter (assuming it was wired on the + side of the speaker line).

I am assuming you're trying to add a sub here right? If so, it would defeat your purpose, as it would attenuate all frequencies below it's x-over frequency by 6db. Something that small would have a pretty high (over 4,000hz) crossover frequency.

George
 
  #7  
Old 04-07-2010, 07:22 PM
magnificus's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Edmonton, Canada
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by androulakis
There is switched + 12v power in the trunk in two places. First at the rear electronics module, second, at the plug for the trunk aux power port.

Sorry I just automatically thought of a stiffening cap and read that as a 2 farad cap, not a 2uf. What would be the purpose of a 2uf non polarized electrolytic? It would only serve as a first order high pass filter (assuming it was wired on the + side of the speaker line).

I am assuming you're trying to add a sub here right? If so, it would defeat your purpose, as it would attenuate all frequencies below it's x-over frequency by 6db. Something that small would have a pretty high (over 4,000hz) crossover frequency.

George
Is that an actual a trunk aux power outlook or is that just a wire around the Luggage Compartment Fuse Box? If the outlet exists, do you know where it is. I can't find it?
Thanks' Adrian
 

Last edited by magnificus; 04-07-2010 at 09:40 PM.
  #8  
Old 04-17-2010, 10:15 PM
magnificus's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Edmonton, Canada
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I actually found out a beter way. On the Jag S-type 2003 there is a power outlet in the middle compartment. You take out the cup holder and the plastic underneith it. You will notice an inbus screw (starshaped). you take it out with the apropriate screwdriver. There is another screw next to the power outlet. You take that out and the middle compartment comes out easily.then you take a wire andrun it on the passanger side underneith the glove compartment, then run it next to the Passange side fusebox. after that it is easy all the way to the back...
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Shawn Svacha
X-Type ( X400 )
16
11-04-2019 02:47 PM
PMKimpton
X-Type ( X400 )
15
08-03-2019 08:22 PM
philwarner
XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III
16
09-05-2015 10:05 AM
arnoldmilk
New Member Area - Intro a MUST
8
09-03-2015 07:42 PM
XFR_Gold
XF and XFR ( X250 )
2
09-02-2015 12:24 PM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 


Quick Reply: 2003 S-type need remote(amp trigger) wire other than the one on the front console



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:37 PM.