Ok so i have the auxilery water pump , and the DCCV off of the car . I tested them and they apper to work ok . For the auxilery water pump it only has to wires the houseing was marked positive and negative iit also has a arrow for direction of flow. I did notice it was not really sucking to hard , but i do not know how hard it should be . I was expecting it to suck my finger a least tight but not even close. As for the DCCV it had three wires the houseing was numbered 1 2 3 i could easily blow thew the valve . I put ground on number 2 then touched number 1 with 12v could fell the solinoid close and couldnt blow trew that side anymore . Same thing when i put 12v to number 3 . I am pretty sure it was working correctly . I am not sure about the auxilery pump , maybe one of the techs could tell me if there should be more suction. I hate to put it all back together not fixing any thing . I have never checked the supercharger waterpump but the intercoolers are always full of water and the bleeder valve is always full . I can also fell the hoses on booth sides of it when running they fell like they have good presure . I still wonder if it could be head gasket but nobody has said that so far . Man i need help . I can take the cooling system apart pretty fast now lots of practice. LOL. I just found out they have a head gasket tester at Autozone maybe if no new suggestions i will try that tommorw . I wonder if it is possable to get bad radiator from dealer i remember a few times draining system with water still warm and first ten fifteen seconds of water was cool the got hot . Help me please i am going crazy .

 

Have you pressure checked the cooling system with a gauge?

To check the headgaskets use a compression gauge and do a leak down test. Yes I know it's not a 100% accurate since you can get blow by through the rings but all 8 tests should be pretty equal make sure you note the cylinder and keep both banks separate the leak down test can provide alot of info if you know how to interpret the data

 

Yes the test i was talking about i beleive is called a carbon test basicly you stick this test tube looking thing in the filler hole and add some fluid that will change colors if there is exaust gases in the cooling system. However i think i might have found the problem it seems like the auxilery water pump . It is running but not sucking at all. I held it in the same position as if it were on the car had short piece of hose on inlet side into bucket of water and nothing i no it is kind of gravity feed on car so i tried my best to do same not one drop pumped out . I am not positive but i dont think it is working proparly. Seems like i should feel vacum or it should have pumped water.

 

I might be able to source you one if you like.

 

Well it is 12:30 am put the whole car back together there was a o ring in the top half of the auxilery water pump . Was worn so i changed it then held the non-electrical part in a pot of water when i powered up the pump shot water everywhere. I hope it is fixed dont have any antifreeze here and my son is asleep . I guess i will have to try it tomorrow . I also read somwhere that water can get in the three main plugs that are kind of right behind the supercharger waterpump and mess up the termanals so i blew them out with air and put some electrical conection grease on them . I will see in the morning .

 

Thank you for offering to source that for me . They have it at the local auto parts store here and you can just borrow it . Just have to pay for the fluid that goes in it .

 

Hope it works for you! Please report back with what you find. The AUX coolant pump is not for engine cooling. It allows you get heat inside the car at idle. The DCCV is just to regulate the heat separately from side to side. This allows your dual climate control to work properly. This also should have nothing to do with the engine cooling.

So I will be surprised if this fixes your problem. But who knows?? STR overheating problems so far are quite rare. So not a lot of concrete information to go on yet. Let’s hope it stays that way!!!
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I put it all together tried it dosent apper to be any change . I went to autozone got the tester for head gasket showed no problem . I tried it three times the fluid is suppose to turn yellow if there is problem never did. I did notice right were the little vent screw is seemed like the fluid was moving around alot inside tank . I dont no i think i will try this radiator shop tomorrow that is within driving range . If no help i guess i will take it to dealer . I will post update tomorrow.

 

I did the cylinder leak down test and number 3 cylinder was leaking right into the cooling system . I guess that means blown head gasket or cracked head . I have a friend with a shop he says they will change the head gaskets for eight hundred for both sides if i buy parts . I will take it there on saturday he says it will take about seven days one to take them off four or five for the machine shop to presure test them and one to put back together . I will update when any change .

 

Well, ok...it could have been worse? good luck with the fix. She'll run like new thereafter.

 

Wow that's not bad at all! Considering how complicated the motors are while the blower is off change the coolant line under the blower you will thank yourself later

 

Annnnd....while the blower is off you can port, polish, and small pulley it along with a full exhaust mod....

 

+1 on that! So cheap (now) but so expensive (later).

 

yes i will change that hose , i already have the smaller pulley and thermostat. I was thinking about the rebuild and port and polish of the supercharger . For the amount of money it might be worth looking into a twin screw upgrade. The guys working onit say they think i should do the lower pulley upgrade . I have not drove the car since last thanksgiving so i might just wont to get it driving for awhile it will probaly feel like a monster since i have been driving a 1997 Nissan Pathfinder that is stuck in limp mode . I can only go 56 lol that one says wiring problem to the mass airflow sensor so i changed it it did not help . Maybe i will fix it after the car . I talked to the shop they said they were busy today so they only removed some of the acceserys in they way . They claim they will take it all apart tomorrow . They also say i should probaly get some new head bolts . So i am going to look for some .

 

I have really been thinking about the exaust also at first i was just going to remove the resinators but i read somewhere it gets pretty loud . I really dont like loud exaust that much . There are to many imports and mustangs around hear that are loud. I am trying to find a upgrade that is not loud or to expensive.

 

It is taking longer than expecting but they are hoping to get the heads back tommorow . The car should be ready on monday , we will see i am hopeing to go over there tommorow and clean the motor some since they have it out of the car .

 

I went to pick up the gaskets from the dealer today then took them to the shop were the car is. The heads came back like three days ago the machine shop said one was alittle warped so they shaved the heads 5 thouasands . So i no the people at the shop i stayed over there and we put the heads on all the cam in set timming etc. We did not have the gasket for the front cover so we had to stop hopefully it will be back together within a few days .

 

Good work on reporting your progress on upper engine re-build.

 

shaved heads hmmm, more power here you come.. congrats on being the first to do it.

Take her to the dyno asap!

 

sorry should have posted sooner got car back about two weeks ago. Everything is doing good back to normal when i first picked it up and went on test drive had a couple of hose clamps not on corectly but no big deal they just put them on good and no more problems . They said one of the motor mounts were broke so they had to change it . When i got the bill it was 1595.82 i guess that was not to bad.