Welcome Nova 1274, Best post this in the S Type forum, with more details. Mileage etc..

Was it running OK before you changed the valley pipe.?

Scanner shows Throttle at low range with ignition on (no peddle )and at 100% when peddle fully pressed down. ???

Have you reset the throttle range. Ignition on, (engine not running) Press accelerator to the floor, all the way down and then back to closed.(accelerator off). see the thread below.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ection-176446/

Every time I take the car for a drive the car hesitates to a top speed of around 70mph. Can't shift any further and stutters, even went into limp mode for a few seconds trying to overdo it. 70mph is pretty much the top speed fyi.
some group friends on Facebook suggested possible fuel pump.

Could be, Lack of fuel, (change the fuel filter under the wheel liner LHS) Lack of air, Blocked exhaust, (Cat damaged blocked breaking down causing a restriction) Lack of spark.
Are you getting any codes? If it went into limp mode you must have flagged something?
Could be many things.

Any sounds from the engine bay supercharger air leakage type noises??.

Have a check around and post in the S type section, A Problem shared is a Problem Halved.

 

It has 93k miles and honestly when the tire truck brought it to my house a couple years ago it went right to the backyard.
And honestly I did bunch of maintenance while I had it apart.
New hoses, gaskets, spark plugs, fuel filter, oil change.
The throttle body relearn I read today for the first time when I joined.
The super charger after doing the expensive pulley upgrade and bearings and solid coupler sounds ok while driving but in idle it sounds scratchy, marbles in a can etc.

 

If I understand you correctly. This was a non runner delivered to your door?
You have done a supercharger overhaul, smaller pulley, bearings and solid coupler. But still sounds noisy at Idle.
and carried out a full service. ( would include a rear diff oil change, and a transmission oil and filter change but lets get it running first)

Can you read any codes?

You may have had an iss with it before you overhauled it. Like the catalytic converters breaking down and causing partial blockage at higher engine loads.

Rewrite your post, with the facts. from the above and post in the S type forum.

I understand in the states you can get the codes read at the auto stores free of charge. This would give a better idea and direction.

Along the lines of.

I bought a none runner STR 93K miles, serviced it and changed the valley pipe, and overhauled the supercharger bearing, isolated and smaller pulley when out.
Now runs and stutters at max 70mph at full load, and the supercharger is a little noisy at idle.
I have fuel pressures of ???
I get the following ???? codes stored.
I am in XYZ ( in case anyone is near by, and can recommended parts, or good independents in the area)

From the above info we may be able to help you progress the fault finding testing, checking without throwing expensive parts at it.

It sounds good and with a little more info (codes ) I am sure the forum can direct you in the correct direction.


https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic...-s-type-parts/
will be of help in looking for part numbers.

 

So about two years ago I bought a cheap running 2005 s type r. It's issue was the valley pipe. Therefore drove it in the backyard where it sat for a couple years as I slowly did work.

Anyways a little history on this beauty.
I took off the hoses and supercharger to get to the valley hose. No biggy.
So 2005 STR 93k miles. Did a refurbish on the sc. Bearings, pulley upgrade, solid coupler, and took the flaking black powder coating off of the blades. Overall at idle the sc sounds scratchy and like marbles in a tin can.
Almost all new coolant hoses, gaskets. Basically replaced things upon putting the car back together.
New air filter, cabin filter, fuel filter, spark plugs.
So my main issue is that when driving my top speed is 70mph.
It doesn't get up to that speed as you'd expect either.
When I go full throttle the car even went into limp mode for a few seconds and codes popped up on the scanner but I'm suspecting because of my dumb action. Those codes were
p1313 and p0307 and that happened when I floored it into partial limp mode. Those codes shortly went away though.
But there is a constant code p1000 that won't go away.
I think if that goes away that more important codes pertaining to my issue will arise. I've had the p1000 code go away after some driving but this time it won't.
Just wondering if anybody's ever experienced this.
With ignition on the throttle body plate opens 100% on the scanner.
also filled full tank of shell v power gasoline and it's drinking the fuel rather quickly.
While running throttle opens to about 14% revving to the limiter (4k) in park.
fuel pressure stays around 55psi while driving and when flooring it stays the same or I've seen at most 60psi.
Any ideas or experiences or troubleshooting would be great.
I thought this was a fluke since it didn't show in the main menu of the scanner during the initializing process but in another menu I found an OEM Enhanced selection and got a p1798 and p0706 codes for transmission.
Also I'm in Ohio USA.

 

Nova1274,
I've copied byand and your posts from your intro thread to keep everything together.

 

Please delete it for I have made a new post

 

Fuel pressure. Looks OK. see below.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...running-87119/

P1000 means.OBD SYSTEM READINESS – ENGINE MANAGEMENT

If DTC P1000 is flagged after DTCs have been cleared, all engine management OBD diagnostic monitor drive cycles HAVE NOT BEEN COMPLETED.

See below the codes, and where they are from.

I would check the misfire on Bank No.1 Cylinder number No.7 The Right hand side looking forward aft cylinder. and try and cure the misfire.
P1313

EMS OBD II

Misfire rate catalyst damage – bank 1

NOTE: This DTC will flag only when accompanied by an individual cylinder misfire DTC: P0300 – P0308

Misfire monitor drive cycle – page 6

2

A

ECM Default:

– Maximum engine speed reduced

—

Cylinder compression low

Worn camshaft / broken valve spring(s)

Fuel delivery pressure (low / high)

Fuel injector(s) restricted / leaking

Fuel injector(s) continuously open

Fuel contamination

Fuel injector circuit fault(s) (Injector DTCs also flagged)

Spark plug failure / fouled / incorrect gap

ECM to ignition coil primary circuit fault (Cylinder misfire detected DTC also flagged)

Ignition coil failure



P0307
V8 EMS OBD II
Misfire detected – cylinder 7 *Refer to Misfire Note, page 6
Misfire monitor drive cycle – page 6
1 or 2*
N
None
—
Refer to P0300 Possible CausesP1798

TRANS JAG

CAN TCM / IC network malfunction

Ignition ON 10 seconds

N

N

None

GB2 -2 -6

CAN open circuit fault – TCM to IC CAN short circuit fault
IC failure
TCM / Control valve failure

P0706

TRANS JAG

J Gate selector position plausibility fault

Switch ignition ON. Move the gear selector slowly from P to the 2 position, then back to P

N

A

TCM Default:

• – Shift strategy fixed
  
• – J Gate “manual” function disabled
  
• – If selected, Sport Mode disabled
  

—

TCM / J Gate Module CAN fault J Gate Module failur


from Jag repair, Cheers Gus.
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto..._OBD_II_R2.pdf

 

Yes as posted above ALL cars should have either P1000 or P1111 at all times.
P1000 means someone cleared the codes and the car is still in relearning mode.
P1111 means all the monitors are set and your ready for emissions inspection.

Your on the right track just keep doing what your doing and knock out the problems one by one.
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Now when I put the key in I hear bubbling inside the car and when I follow the noise in the engine bay the sound is coming from behind the engine and smells like gasoline.

 

This happens when you turn the key on but DON'T start the engine? Just want to be sure I understand what your doing.

There is a FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) on the drivers side at the rear of the engine. This has an electrical plug and one vacuum line. It bolts down to the fuel injection rail. It has O-rings for sealing. Maybe take a look around that area?

Have you changed the fuel filter? It's mounted behind the drivers side front wheel liner. Several fuel line connections in that area too. I do see that you did change filter earlier.
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I'm sorry it's not really doing it anymore. By reading around here I'm guessing it could've been from the last time I had the ac on. And the fuel smell stopped.
And yes fuel filter was changed.
*Update* sitting here writing this message with the car off after about a minute there was a mechanical sound followed by that bubbly sound again. Ignition is off .
Upon further inspection the sound went away while still writing this message.
It might not be bubbles but more of an actuator type of sound. 🤷

 

I had a "gurgle" on my 2005 STR from behind the dash somewhere and it seemed to be related to the AC system after I shut the car off?
Can't say that was it as I never solved it and it was a minor annoyance.

Maybe my gurgle and your bubble sound are related?
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Maybe. After listening closer yesterday it sounded like a mechanism type sound and when it stopped, it stopped.
Something gurgling or bubbling wouldn't just stop.
After turning car off and taking key out there was a fuel pump type motor sound from the engine bay followed by that actuator kind of sound 🤯

 

Does your dad say restricted performance? When mine says restricted performance it definitely loses power doesn’t rev doesn’t drive at high speeds. You can take your car out for a drive around town come back open the hood and touch the intercoolers and see if they are as hot as the engine or if they’re cool. Your supercharger pump might not be functioning. Also might want to check the vacuum line going to the valve at the back of the supercharger for the bypass make sure that the bypass isn’t bypassing all the time

 

No restricted performance pops up and when turning car off intercoolers get hot

 

Unless there's definitely leaking fuel, I think you're getting distracted by things that ought to be well down the list to fix (such as the gurgling / actuator sound of a/c).

I'd get the engine working right, i.e. chase the cylinder (coil) issue & check the shift cable bolts.