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Good evening everyone.
I got the classic hot air out of passenger vents - even when set on low on temp settings in car.
Because of this wonderful thread, today I had the valve changed with all new coolant added.
I still have the same issue.
Tomorrow, I will check fuse F32 at the front power distribution box.
I just have a couple questions.
Are there any other fuses or relays to check or fuses?
And my last question, after I get the ccm out after removing the glove box, can someone please tell me where the burnt trace will be and how to access it? Also the easiest way to repair it.
I am not handy at all with this stuff and I am very grateful for any advice.
I have a wonderful mechanic who is super talented who is going to help me resolve this issue tomorrow am.
Thank you so much to everyone, and stay safe.
Sixx Dogg
Many of the steps require no special mechanical ability. Push this button, make an observation. You can do much of the diagnostics yourself, versus paying a professional.
The "hot air" from the vents? Is it warmer than ambient air? Or just not as cool as it should be? That's a big difference in troubleshooting, covered in the guide.
To test your new DCCV, follow the directions in post #2 of the guide. There's no guarantee the new one is good, so don't fall into that trap. Test the new one to be sure. Check the fuse again, too, in case the new DCCV blew the fuse.
The same section also has some simple electrical checks for the circuit controlling the DCCV. Remember, the two valves inside the DCCV are spring-loaded open, and require power to close and shut off heat. This is why I had asked earlier about how warm the vent air really is, to make sure you're on the right track.
If you get full battery power at the DCCV connector, the control module is good. I'm not sure I'd bother tearing apart the module in search of a burnt trace. If you've got power at the DCCV, the traces have not failed.
If no power at the DCCV, and the fuse is good, then the control module is a likely culprit. Video links here, showing how to open the module for an inspection:
Good evening Kr9!
Yes I did - and I should have mentioned that is was piping hot *** air and I was losing my mind! IT WAS THAT HOT!
But I got good news!
My amazing mechanic got the board out for me today, and we saw the burnt out traces.
One of my best friends happened to know a guy out of town so we took a ride!
In 10 minutes he fixed the issue of the burnt traces on the board....I went back to my mechanic - plugged it in and BAM!
****IN FIXED!!!!!!
WOOOOOOOO!
So happy for your help, also for this threads help since I have joined.
Thank you!!! Everyone stay safe out there.
Cool beans. I was gonna post picts of my module that was supposedly sent out and fixed (crappy job they did but i cleaned it up) I but you got it covered.
I noticed my system still pumps out higher temp than I want so I run it at around 63 degrees or I get too warm. I do have control of the heating and cooling so it might just be a sensor is a lil off. But I think it may be the lag in cooling based on the design of the system. Im working on it.