@Bfgross
What is the difference between the Mustang dyno MD500 and the Powerdyno? They seem pretty similar, both have 2 small drums per wheel.

@Oesiii,
I can't help with interpreting results from a dual drum per wheel dyno, sorry.

 

How did they shut off the ABS??
Did not know that was possible.
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The car is equipped with DSC which is Dynamic Stability Control. ABS is always on but DSC part of which is traction control prevents the rear wheels from spinning under heavy acceleration by pulsing the brakes rapidly.

On a dyno, this will hamper the results because as more power demanded from the system, the DCS would always slow the rear wheels making for inaccurate results. DSC is disabled by pushing a fixed button in the center console of the car. Upon doing so, the HUD will display DSC disabled.

 

bfs:
A couple of questions.(as usual!)Is grinding the SC snout a big,risky job?Should I bring to a performance garage to have it done?Did you use just a standard pulley puller and did you have any problems removing it.With the puller ECU Tuning Group lent us my son had no problem removing the stock pulley.Jags Gill advised me that they designed this puller themselves.
What dynoes do not use two drums per wheel?It seems that the only dynoes around here are the Mustang MD500 and Power Dyne.
What chiller killer did you use and where do I buy one?
Once again,thanks for everyones input and assistance.I really appreciate your help.
OESIII

 

Avos, the Mustang Dyno and other dynos utilize similar but not the same programs. We understand the Mustang Dyno to be more forgiving when it comes to power numbers. OESIII, Use the puller to yank the 1.7. I'd strongly suggest bringing the car to a performance shop or a mechanic versed in grinding. You're likely fine just retaining the 1.7 and enjoy it. I don't have a "Chiller Killer" yet. You'll benefit from it too.

 

@Bfrgross,
The MD500 has dual rolls per wheel, but once you go to the MD800 (and higher) it will have 1 single roll, these are both Mustang dynos, so which one do you mean (or is meant in general) with "The Mustang Dyno"?

As said the single drum per wheel will cause less drag on the wheels, and thus show more hp obviously then the ones with dual rolls per wheel, or in other words the MD800 will be more forgiving then the MD500.

 

Avos, I guess all/most Mustang Dynos?

 

Okay,here's some news.I e-mailed Jags Gill of ECU Tuning Group early this morning and within a few hours he e-mailed me his telephone number.I spoke with him and explained to him about the low dyno numbers with the mods installed.First he stated that if I wanted he'll have his tech come to my home and remove their aftermarket pulley ( which by the way is a 1.5lb.pulley he stated)and detune the ECU.We'll then have it dynoed and see where it's at and then replace their 1.5 lb.pulley,retune the ECU and see where we are at that point.Of course it just might be a bitch trying to synchronize his schedule with mine and the dyno garage,but Jags assured me that if that's what I want to do we'll get it done.He will have someone in this area in early July,so it will be awhile before it happens.I'm still going to take the car for a dyno on the MD500 next week to see if there is a difference between that and the readings on the Power Dyne.My son took the car for the Power Dyne runs and he said that the machine had two drums per wheel on one side and single drums on the other side and they ran it on the single drum side.At least that's what I understood him to say.Also Jags Gill stated to me that he has a customer in Ohio with a stock STR.They are going to dyno before and after their ECU tune and video it and post it on this forum and also U-Tube.This is supposed to take place in three to four weeks.So let's see what happens.One more thing.If you Google (Is Your Dyno Lying?-Feature-Car and Driver)there is a two page article about discrepencies in dynoes.I read it.It's interesting.
Well that's all for now.Talk to you soon.OESIII

 

I forgot to add that I checked the internet for a Mustang MD800 or a Car Tec dyno ( which Jags Gill likes to use if he can find one) and I could'nt find either of them in New Jersey.Jags said that the Car Tec dyno is extremely expensive and accurate,but he does'nt know of any in North America.

 

It'll def. be interesting when/if ECU Tuning pulls off the pre/post dyno tests you outlined. Good job OESIII. Perhaps these events will de-mystify the STR's present attitude and give some light on its potential?

 

OESIII - I'm sure you already know this, but you're over-thinking the specific numbers the dyno is spitting out.

You know dynos vary and therefore so do the results.

When it comes to the internet, forums, youtube, everyone wants to post up the big numbers, of course! But you can't lose sight of the fact it is nothing more than a tuning tool.
You don't need to draw dyno-vs-dyno comparisons when precisely tuning your car.
You do need to draw conclusions and tune by observing back-to-back-to-back adjustments on one dyno, and how they effect your torque curve across the band.

You then proceed to your local 1/4 mile track, and you'll be able to judge your 'real' hp. Dyno numbers are one thing, but your mph - trap speed says everything about how fast your car is (not taken as absolute statement here)

These cars have some decent aero and high gearing, meaning they pull pretty good even after the 1/4 mile mark, while other cars may fall off. Not quite sure where you can do that kind of 150mph+ racing though, so perhaps that's a moot point...

My strongest suggestion for further mods you need is water/methanol injection. 100% meth works great. One, 15gph nozzle in a basic progressive kit, should do wonders for this car.

The factory tuning of the ecu seems to be very dynamic and adaptable. Afterall, it does handle massive swings in temperature - fuel quality - efficiency - timing, and guys are doing bolt's, raising boost, and the ecu has enough flexibility to eat it all up.

the factory ecu appears to do a very good job managing the power ouput, even as you're dialing it up. Stock fuel system and electronics i think would be able to support ~450wtq. On an str, I would definitely follow a process of install meth kit, reset the ecu, and let it start it's new life of high octane daily diet thanks to a water methanol injection kit.

Whether or not you'll ever see that same 450wtq on a dyno though, is another story. As discussed, the stock ecu does a great job of 'scaling' power up and down based on conditions, well, so can ABS and Stability systems.

Who knows how the electronics are reacting to the dyno. Sure you set "DSC off" but it's never 'really' off in this car, and the transmission has its own tune, and robs a good amount of power on its own, many different things to consider before you beat yourself over a dyno sheet!

Your setup sounds good and I'm glad you're pioneering this tune with ecu tuning group for us to read about!

I think if I were to shoot for the ~500wtq range in this car, it would be with a turbo or centrifugal blower . Factory electronics could likely even manage it.

 

Now that's an excellent post! Track #'s are the definitive and limiting player here.

 

Track numbers are indeed fine, but then you need to know also what other cars have done under similar weather conditions (ie almost empty or full tank, with or without spare wheel...).

On a dyno at least the temperature/baro pressure will be taken into consideration via SAE or DIN corrections, of course once has to use the right values, this is something you can always check yourself. I personally prefer a dyno, especially when it comes to checking what effect changes have made, and of course also always check the a/f ratio. For comparing between different dynos you can only use the figures as a ballpark, never as exact of course.

Here you can see some track time differences from one enthusiast with just different temperature changes:

 

Screw this crap Avos! Just give us an affordable twin screw blower.... LOL

 

Hey everyone:
Thanks for all of the input.Believe me,I'm taking it all in.I really do need to get to the track and see what's happening.GT42R,I thought I was the only one that wrote that much on a post.I appreciate your advice. I'm probably going to get the water/meth installed soon along with a chiller killer.My son said he's installed these on some of his friends cars so I'll see if he
can do it on the STR.Always good to save on labor costs.I guess we're all anticipating ECUTGs' STR results.This way we'll know exactly what their tune will do.Also the twin screw seems to be taking forever to develope.It would at least be nice to know exactly where they are with it.Some estimated date would be good to know.
Is there a specific company I should get the chiller killer from or a certain part number?
Talk to you folks later.Have a great day. OESIII

 

Oesiii

 

Space bar between sentences, enter/carriage return key between paragraphs.

Happy birthday by the way!

 

LOL, Yer doing alright OESIII. Happy b-day.

 

Thank You.

It was one of those ones you wish would'nt get here!

 

Belated happy birthday, young man...