2006 S-Type-R
#141
#142
Oesiii
Hey MirEgal: I had a 1968 Mustang GT in 1970. I bought it with about 20K on it for $2,050. It was a really ballsy little 302 four Barrel. I wish I still had it. Ah,yesteryear!
Hey everyone, I just got off of the phone with Eurotoys. I asked if they had any news on the twin screw.He stated that they completely gave up on the idea of a twin screw for the STR. He said the STR is a pain in the neck to work on and unless someone is willing to spend some really big bucks they don't foresee ever making one.
Also the numbers I put out there about drive train loss were the numbers the three different techs from three different dyno garages gave me!That's the only reason I said what I said. I don't know squat about drivetrain loss. Techs,I guess are like doctors. Everyone has a different diagnosis for the same ailment.
Have a good day!
Hey everyone, I just got off of the phone with Eurotoys. I asked if they had any news on the twin screw.He stated that they completely gave up on the idea of a twin screw for the STR. He said the STR is a pain in the neck to work on and unless someone is willing to spend some really big bucks they don't foresee ever making one.
Also the numbers I put out there about drive train loss were the numbers the three different techs from three different dyno garages gave me!That's the only reason I said what I said. I don't know squat about drivetrain loss. Techs,I guess are like doctors. Everyone has a different diagnosis for the same ailment.
Have a good day!
#143
#144
Oesiii
CatManDo:
I think even though they'd really be pricey,I would probably spend the money on a twin screw if someone would actually develope one. If I thought that a twin screw would at least get me into the low 12s,I'd keep the car forever. I really don't care what the book value on my car is as long as I'm content with it. You can't beat it's comfort and styling. As I previously posted, Eurotoys has decided to not even bother with the idea of a T.S.anymore. They were supposed to be in some type of partnership with Kenne Bell. I have e-mailed Kenne Bell and also Arden which was also supposedly in the process of developing a T.S. for the 4.2L. I asked them to please let me know if they are in fact attempting to produce a T.S. for our STRs. As of yet I have not heard anything,but as soon as I do I will post their respones.
I think even though they'd really be pricey,I would probably spend the money on a twin screw if someone would actually develope one. If I thought that a twin screw would at least get me into the low 12s,I'd keep the car forever. I really don't care what the book value on my car is as long as I'm content with it. You can't beat it's comfort and styling. As I previously posted, Eurotoys has decided to not even bother with the idea of a T.S.anymore. They were supposed to be in some type of partnership with Kenne Bell. I have e-mailed Kenne Bell and also Arden which was also supposedly in the process of developing a T.S. for the 4.2L. I asked them to please let me know if they are in fact attempting to produce a T.S. for our STRs. As of yet I have not heard anything,but as soon as I do I will post their respones.
#145
For now a blower port/polish and a "Chiller Killer" will put and maintain that smile on your face as you feel the additional 25 hp. With all the other mods considered she'll likely put down 460+ hp and torque. dragtimes.com has a 2000 XKR 4.0 with low gears, port/polish blower with smaller pulley doing a 12.4 1/4 mile.
#148
Oesiii
Hi everyone:
Well two down and one to go. I just heard from Arden. They stated that they will not be deveoping a twin screw for the STR. So,that's Eurotoys and Arden out of the T.S. hunt. I'm just waiting to hear from Kenne Bell,but I can almost guarantee that they are not going to manufacture one either,because they were in partnership with Eurotoys. So no T.S. for us. I guess it's just not a big enough market for them to invest in. I suppose we'll have to make do with what we have. The worst thing about all of this is that all three companies talked about developing a T.S. and Arden along with the partnership of Kenne Bell by Eurotoys have posted pictures of their T.S for the 4.2L. They get you all excited and then drop the ball! You know what? "Twin Screw them!" LOL! Pun intended.
Well two down and one to go. I just heard from Arden. They stated that they will not be deveoping a twin screw for the STR. So,that's Eurotoys and Arden out of the T.S. hunt. I'm just waiting to hear from Kenne Bell,but I can almost guarantee that they are not going to manufacture one either,because they were in partnership with Eurotoys. So no T.S. for us. I guess it's just not a big enough market for them to invest in. I suppose we'll have to make do with what we have. The worst thing about all of this is that all three companies talked about developing a T.S. and Arden along with the partnership of Kenne Bell by Eurotoys have posted pictures of their T.S for the 4.2L. They get you all excited and then drop the ball! You know what? "Twin Screw them!" LOL! Pun intended.
#149
#150
STR is like many other platforms out there, it simply does not have a a super-robust aftermarket.
Many people, certainly some str owners, do not understand the pitfalls of chasing ever higher numbers.
There's a lot of relatively cheap and simple mods you can do these cars to really wake them up. you can make your 350wtq str into a 400wtq str with the usual set of bolt-ons we are discussing in this thread.
You've had your fun, and you've spent relatively little, and you still have stock-like drive-ability and reliability from your car, and you're having a blast.
At this point, you can begin to cross the line, where you will be overhauling your STR more extensively to bring it up to 450-550wtq, where the costs jump significantly in order to make more gains, and to further 'support' those gains.
Dyno tuning your STR is tricky, this thread has shown that. Tuning consists of programming incremental tweaks, live in a variety of enviroments. So far the only 'tuning' I seen available for the STR is getting your car 'chipped' or 'programmed' by someone or another.
This is NOT going to cut it for it anyone chasing 450-500wtq range of more. You will need some sort of custom tuning solution. When you go to the extent of a twin screw kit, you're subject to a lot of costs related to ecu tuning, cooling, fabrication, pioneering efforts, etc, especially if you're paying someone else to do it. At this point, you might have a car you spend more time tinkering with, than actually driving day-to-day, like you did when you first began modding your STR.
I only say this from experience and having seen it many times myself; individual will spend his first $1,000 and make an extra 100hp. Then decides to spend $15,000 on round 2 of mods for the next 100hp, and inevitably comes out disappointed.
I don't say this to discourage anyone. Because if you're innovative and got the motivation, any of these 'challenges' i presented can be made trivial given enough time and money.
The main thing we can shoot for is to max out the current output of the factory MAF and/or fuel injectors. I think thats around 450wtq mark, call it an educated guess at best. If you can hit that power level, and still have a trouble-free all stock computer and tune managing it, you're golden.
One option I would research, is this piggy-back ecu, : PERFORMANCE MOTOR RESEARCH LTD :
I have used this with great success on other MAF equipped cars. You unplug and remove your factory MAF sensor completely. You plug in the MAP-ECU in it's place. You connect engine vacuum to the MAP-ECU internal MAP sensor. Done. (slightly simplified)
Then, properly configured, the MAP-ECU does it's magic; it does it's own airflow calculation, and delivers the 'exact' signal the factory ECU/electronics are used to running the engine with from your MAF.
Through this simple manipulation of your factory MAF signal using the MAP-ECU, you can gain an incredible degre of tuning possibility, all on factory electronics.
I have personal experience with MAP-ECU on other platforms, and it works great around factory electronics, it just isn't guaranteed to work or have been even tested on more obscure platforms. So by no means am I saying this is a product suitable for an STR application.
I would prefer to keep power levels conservative in an STR, and just improve consistency through improvements in efficiency, cooling, etc,
Personally I would consider removing the supercharger all-together, plumbing in an economical but efficient turbo kit, and run it to max out factory electronics/fueling. Decent alternative to these $5k+ twin screw kit prices i'n seeing thrown around.
Many people, certainly some str owners, do not understand the pitfalls of chasing ever higher numbers.
There's a lot of relatively cheap and simple mods you can do these cars to really wake them up. you can make your 350wtq str into a 400wtq str with the usual set of bolt-ons we are discussing in this thread.
You've had your fun, and you've spent relatively little, and you still have stock-like drive-ability and reliability from your car, and you're having a blast.
At this point, you can begin to cross the line, where you will be overhauling your STR more extensively to bring it up to 450-550wtq, where the costs jump significantly in order to make more gains, and to further 'support' those gains.
Dyno tuning your STR is tricky, this thread has shown that. Tuning consists of programming incremental tweaks, live in a variety of enviroments. So far the only 'tuning' I seen available for the STR is getting your car 'chipped' or 'programmed' by someone or another.
This is NOT going to cut it for it anyone chasing 450-500wtq range of more. You will need some sort of custom tuning solution. When you go to the extent of a twin screw kit, you're subject to a lot of costs related to ecu tuning, cooling, fabrication, pioneering efforts, etc, especially if you're paying someone else to do it. At this point, you might have a car you spend more time tinkering with, than actually driving day-to-day, like you did when you first began modding your STR.
I only say this from experience and having seen it many times myself; individual will spend his first $1,000 and make an extra 100hp. Then decides to spend $15,000 on round 2 of mods for the next 100hp, and inevitably comes out disappointed.
I don't say this to discourage anyone. Because if you're innovative and got the motivation, any of these 'challenges' i presented can be made trivial given enough time and money.
The main thing we can shoot for is to max out the current output of the factory MAF and/or fuel injectors. I think thats around 450wtq mark, call it an educated guess at best. If you can hit that power level, and still have a trouble-free all stock computer and tune managing it, you're golden.
One option I would research, is this piggy-back ecu, : PERFORMANCE MOTOR RESEARCH LTD :
I have used this with great success on other MAF equipped cars. You unplug and remove your factory MAF sensor completely. You plug in the MAP-ECU in it's place. You connect engine vacuum to the MAP-ECU internal MAP sensor. Done. (slightly simplified)
Then, properly configured, the MAP-ECU does it's magic; it does it's own airflow calculation, and delivers the 'exact' signal the factory ECU/electronics are used to running the engine with from your MAF.
Through this simple manipulation of your factory MAF signal using the MAP-ECU, you can gain an incredible degre of tuning possibility, all on factory electronics.
I have personal experience with MAP-ECU on other platforms, and it works great around factory electronics, it just isn't guaranteed to work or have been even tested on more obscure platforms. So by no means am I saying this is a product suitable for an STR application.
I would prefer to keep power levels conservative in an STR, and just improve consistency through improvements in efficiency, cooling, etc,
Personally I would consider removing the supercharger all-together, plumbing in an economical but efficient turbo kit, and run it to max out factory electronics/fueling. Decent alternative to these $5k+ twin screw kit prices i'n seeing thrown around.
#151
Avos indicated he'd develop the TS blower if he had the committment of enough buyers to warrant his time to develop it. For now a: K&N a/f, modded air intake tube, low temp thermostat, 1.7 or 3 lb pulley, port/polish blower, water cooled front blower snout, methyl alcohol injection and/or "Chiller Killer", hi-flow cats and x-pipe, are what we got and will likely allow the s/c 4.2 develop 475+ hp.
#152
STR is like many other platforms out there, it simply does not have a a super-robust aftermarket.
Many people, certainly some str owners, do not understand the pitfalls of chasing ever higher numbers.
There's a lot of relatively cheap and simple mods you can do these cars to really wake them up. you can make your 350wtq str into a 400wtq str with the usual set of bolt-ons we are discussing in this thread.
You've had your fun, and you've spent relatively little, and you still have stock-like drive-ability and reliability from your car, and you're having a blast.
At this point, you can begin to cross the line, where you will be overhauling your STR more extensively to bring it up to 450-550wtq, where the costs jump significantly in order to make more gains, and to further 'support' those gains.
Dyno tuning your STR is tricky, this thread has shown that. Tuning consists of programming incremental tweaks, live in a variety of enviroments. So far the only 'tuning' I seen available for the STR is getting your car 'chipped' or 'programmed' by someone or another.
This is NOT going to cut it for it anyone chasing 450-500wtq range of more. You will need some sort of custom tuning solution. When you go to the extent of a twin screw kit, you're subject to a lot of costs related to ecu tuning, cooling, fabrication, pioneering efforts, etc, especially if you're paying someone else to do it. At this point, you might have a car you spend more time tinkering with, than actually driving day-to-day, like you did when you first began modding your STR.
I only say this from experience and having seen it many times myself; individual will spend his first $1,000 and make an extra 100hp. Then decides to spend $15,000 on round 2 of mods for the next 100hp, and inevitably comes out disappointed.
I don't say this to discourage anyone. Because if you're innovative and got the motivation, any of these 'challenges' i presented can be made trivial given enough time and money.
The main thing we can shoot for is to max out the current output of the factory MAF and/or fuel injectors. I think thats around 450wtq mark, call it an educated guess at best. If you can hit that power level, and still have a trouble-free all stock computer and tune managing it, you're golden.
One option I would research, is this piggy-back ecu, : PERFORMANCE MOTOR RESEARCH LTD :
I have used this with great success on other MAF equipped cars. You unplug and remove your factory MAF sensor completely. You plug in the MAP-ECU in it's place. You connect engine vacuum to the MAP-ECU internal MAP sensor. Done. (slightly simplified)
Then, properly configured, the MAP-ECU does it's magic; it does it's own airflow calculation, and delivers the 'exact' signal the factory ECU/electronics are used to running the engine with from your MAF.
Through this simple manipulation of your factory MAF signal using the MAP-ECU, you can gain an incredible degre of tuning possibility, all on factory electronics.
I have personal experience with MAP-ECU on other platforms, and it works great around factory electronics, it just isn't guaranteed to work or have been even tested on more obscure platforms. So by no means am I saying this is a product suitable for an STR application.
I would prefer to keep power levels conservative in an STR, and just improve consistency through improvements in efficiency, cooling, etc,
Personally I would consider removing the supercharger all-together, plumbing in an economical but efficient turbo kit, and run it to max out factory electronics/fueling. Decent alternative to these $5k+ twin screw kit prices i'n seeing thrown around.
Many people, certainly some str owners, do not understand the pitfalls of chasing ever higher numbers.
There's a lot of relatively cheap and simple mods you can do these cars to really wake them up. you can make your 350wtq str into a 400wtq str with the usual set of bolt-ons we are discussing in this thread.
You've had your fun, and you've spent relatively little, and you still have stock-like drive-ability and reliability from your car, and you're having a blast.
At this point, you can begin to cross the line, where you will be overhauling your STR more extensively to bring it up to 450-550wtq, where the costs jump significantly in order to make more gains, and to further 'support' those gains.
Dyno tuning your STR is tricky, this thread has shown that. Tuning consists of programming incremental tweaks, live in a variety of enviroments. So far the only 'tuning' I seen available for the STR is getting your car 'chipped' or 'programmed' by someone or another.
This is NOT going to cut it for it anyone chasing 450-500wtq range of more. You will need some sort of custom tuning solution. When you go to the extent of a twin screw kit, you're subject to a lot of costs related to ecu tuning, cooling, fabrication, pioneering efforts, etc, especially if you're paying someone else to do it. At this point, you might have a car you spend more time tinkering with, than actually driving day-to-day, like you did when you first began modding your STR.
I only say this from experience and having seen it many times myself; individual will spend his first $1,000 and make an extra 100hp. Then decides to spend $15,000 on round 2 of mods for the next 100hp, and inevitably comes out disappointed.
I don't say this to discourage anyone. Because if you're innovative and got the motivation, any of these 'challenges' i presented can be made trivial given enough time and money.
The main thing we can shoot for is to max out the current output of the factory MAF and/or fuel injectors. I think thats around 450wtq mark, call it an educated guess at best. If you can hit that power level, and still have a trouble-free all stock computer and tune managing it, you're golden.
One option I would research, is this piggy-back ecu, : PERFORMANCE MOTOR RESEARCH LTD :
I have used this with great success on other MAF equipped cars. You unplug and remove your factory MAF sensor completely. You plug in the MAP-ECU in it's place. You connect engine vacuum to the MAP-ECU internal MAP sensor. Done. (slightly simplified)
Then, properly configured, the MAP-ECU does it's magic; it does it's own airflow calculation, and delivers the 'exact' signal the factory ECU/electronics are used to running the engine with from your MAF.
Through this simple manipulation of your factory MAF signal using the MAP-ECU, you can gain an incredible degre of tuning possibility, all on factory electronics.
I have personal experience with MAP-ECU on other platforms, and it works great around factory electronics, it just isn't guaranteed to work or have been even tested on more obscure platforms. So by no means am I saying this is a product suitable for an STR application.
I would prefer to keep power levels conservative in an STR, and just improve consistency through improvements in efficiency, cooling, etc,
Personally I would consider removing the supercharger all-together, plumbing in an economical but efficient turbo kit, and run it to max out factory electronics/fueling. Decent alternative to these $5k+ twin screw kit prices i'n seeing thrown around.
I completely agree a would steer others in another direction if they want the big, BIG power. If you want 500rwhp, this is the wrong car, but if you want to spend under a grand on install + mods for the high 300rwhp range, then this is perfect. E55 AMG's, RS4's, first gen CTS-V's, and Pontiac G8 GT's would be great cars to tinker with, that have solid aftermarkets.
#153
Hi everyone:
Well two down and one to go. I just heard from Arden. They stated that they will not be deveoping a twin screw for the STR. So,that's Eurotoys and Arden out of the T.S. hunt. I'm just waiting to hear from Kenne Bell,but I can almost guarantee that they are not going to manufacture one either,because they were in partnership with Eurotoys. So no T.S. for us. I guess it's just not a big enough market for them to invest in. I suppose we'll have to make do with what we have. The worst thing about all of this is that all three companies talked about developing a T.S. and Arden along with the partnership of Kenne Bell by Eurotoys have posted pictures of their T.S for the 4.2L. They get you all excited and then drop the ball! You know what? "Twin Screw them!" LOL! Pun intended.
Well two down and one to go. I just heard from Arden. They stated that they will not be deveoping a twin screw for the STR. So,that's Eurotoys and Arden out of the T.S. hunt. I'm just waiting to hear from Kenne Bell,but I can almost guarantee that they are not going to manufacture one either,because they were in partnership with Eurotoys. So no T.S. for us. I guess it's just not a big enough market for them to invest in. I suppose we'll have to make do with what we have. The worst thing about all of this is that all three companies talked about developing a T.S. and Arden along with the partnership of Kenne Bell by Eurotoys have posted pictures of their T.S for the 4.2L. They get you all excited and then drop the ball! You know what? "Twin Screw them!" LOL! Pun intended.
Kenne Bell would never be able to design a kit for a handful enthusiasts, this is just not a commercial viable venture by far.
Last edited by avos; 06-11-2012 at 11:23 PM.
#154
Avos indicated he'd develop the TS blower if he had the committment of enough buyers to warrant his time to develop it. For now a: K&N a/f, modded air intake tube, low temp thermostat, 1.7 or 3 lb pulley, port/polish blower, water cooled front blower snout, methyl alcohol injection and/or "Chiller Killer", hi-flow cats and x-pipe, are what we got and will likely allow the s/c 4.2 develop 475+ hp.
#155
One option I would research, is this piggy-back ecu, : PERFORMANCE MOTOR RESEARCH LTD :
I have used this with great success on other MAF equipped cars. You unplug and remove your factory MAF sensor completely. You plug in the MAP-ECU in it's place. You connect engine vacuum to the MAP-ECU internal MAP sensor. Done. (slightly simplified)
Then, properly configured, the MAP-ECU does it's magic; it does it's own airflow calculation, and delivers the 'exact' signal the factory ECU/electronics are used to running the engine with from your MAF.
Through this simple manipulation of your factory MAF signal using the MAP-ECU, you can gain an incredible degre of tuning possibility, all on factory electronics.
I have used this with great success on other MAF equipped cars. You unplug and remove your factory MAF sensor completely. You plug in the MAP-ECU in it's place. You connect engine vacuum to the MAP-ECU internal MAP sensor. Done. (slightly simplified)
Then, properly configured, the MAP-ECU does it's magic; it does it's own airflow calculation, and delivers the 'exact' signal the factory ECU/electronics are used to running the engine with from your MAF.
Through this simple manipulation of your factory MAF signal using the MAP-ECU, you can gain an incredible degre of tuning possibility, all on factory electronics.
#156
Oesiii
Rasputin: I was just researching some times on other cars and the 2003 to 2006 E55 AMGs are running 12.2 to 12.4 stock. With just ECU tuning 11.9 to 12.0. That's pretty quick. For those years they run between $22,000 to $28,000. If I just wanted the performance I think it would be worth selling my 06 STR with 41K on it for $20,000 and spend the extra bucks on the E55, but I do like the styling of our STRs more than the Benz. The thing is I could spend more than the $8,000 difference in the cost of the two cars trying to achieve the numbers of the E55 and never get there. I'm getting confused!
avos: I have a picture of, I assume is a prototype 2.1L T.S. for the 4.2L and it stated, Kenne Bell T.S. by Eurotoys. So,whether it was a partnership or E.T. was buying it from K.B. they decided to scrap the project. I don't know how to post the pictures I have or I'd show them. I need to hog tie my son to the computer so he can do it for me.
avos: I have a picture of, I assume is a prototype 2.1L T.S. for the 4.2L and it stated, Kenne Bell T.S. by Eurotoys. So,whether it was a partnership or E.T. was buying it from K.B. they decided to scrap the project. I don't know how to post the pictures I have or I'd show them. I need to hog tie my son to the computer so he can do it for me.
Last edited by Norri; 06-12-2012 at 03:49 PM. Reason: edited Pics
#157
Oesiii
Okay,I finally cornered my son. This was my Power Dyne dyno sheet and also the pictures of the Kenne Bell by Eurotoys T.S. and the Arden T.S. that will never hit the marketplace. I know we talked about the dyno sheets some time ago,but I needed someone who knew what he was doing to post it for me. Maybe the pictures will help in someway.
Talk to you soon. OESIII
Talk to you soon. OESIII
#158
Rasputin: I was just researching some times on other cars and the 2003 to 2006 E55 AMGs are running 12.2 to 12.4 stock. With just ECU tuning 11.9 to 12.0. That's pretty quick. For those years they run between $22,000 to $28,000. If I just wanted the performance I think it would be worth selling my 06 STR with 41K on it for $20,000 and spend the extra bucks on the E55, but I do like the styling of our STRs more than the Benz. The thing is I could spend more than the $8,000 difference in the cost of the two cars trying to achieve the numbers of the E55 and never get there. I'm getting confused!
avos: I have a picture of, I assume is a prototype 2.1L T.S. for the 4.2L and it stated, Kenne Bell T.S. by Eurotoys. So,whether it was a partnership or E.T. was buying it from K.B. they decided to scrap the project. I don't know how to post the pictures I have or I'd show them. I need to hog tie my son to the computer so he can do it for me.
avos: I have a picture of, I assume is a prototype 2.1L T.S. for the 4.2L and it stated, Kenne Bell T.S. by Eurotoys. So,whether it was a partnership or E.T. was buying it from K.B. they decided to scrap the project. I don't know how to post the pictures I have or I'd show them. I need to hog tie my son to the computer so he can do it for me.
#159
Well, if the T/S for an STR is dead, I may as well consider the options outlined by bfsgross. Plus, just maybe, an ECU Tuning! All confirmed by butt dyno.
Far from being sore, I think this thread has been really valuable, and I now know just about all there is to know about the methods and limits of increasing power to my STR.
Far from being sore, I think this thread has been really valuable, and I now know just about all there is to know about the methods and limits of increasing power to my STR.
#160
I went with the K&N + modified air intake first. Next I upgraded my brake system with Akebono pads. On older cars, a lot can be done just restoring to factory-fresh specs. Plugs, filters, etc. that have become less efficient with age can rob power.