I have a small oil drip coming the back of a valve cover. It stops when the car heats up, but it really needs a new gasket. Jag is quoting $600 plus parts to change them and the local indy is quoting $500 plus parts. Has anyone done this task and was it very difficult? How long does it take to change them? It is very crowded, but I may get your counsel and then do it myself. Any advice?

 

My advice is to torque the valve cover bolts and see if that stops the leak. Many times they work themselves loose over the years. That's what I would try before dropping $600.00.

 

I checked the bolts this afternoon. Real tight, so it must be age from just sitting. The small leak puts a few drops on the exhaust pipe and that won't work for me. I think I'll order some gaskets and a tensioner kit just in case they are original. It looks like a lot of unhooking top parts. The manual is reasonably clear about it.


I did speak with an indy about tensioners. He's changed them several times and told me if the car is low miles like mine and the chains look good, he can change the tensioners and races with no problem. He has a way to lock the chains so there is ZERO movement. If the chains are worn, more work.


Always a project.

 

That's a bummer, sorry I lead you astray.

If you were able to check all the bolts, then you should not have a problem changing out the valve gaskets. Sorry I cannot help you out any further, now if you had the 3.0 that would be a different story.

Good luck.

 

Passenger side is manageable.

Drivers side is tricky - you must disconnect the bolt for the oil dipstick, the bolts for the power steering reservoir and move aside, then the evap unit and... the fuel line to get the cover out. (Some are lucky and can disconnect the oil filler tube and slide the can cover from beneath the fuel line) I was not rushing breaking my oil filler tube, which could be a oil leak source also.

I have changed the gasket with limited success by doing all except disconnecting the fuel line and fitting the new gasket on with the cover being about 2" above the head in place.

It worked short term but needs to be done again properly with getting the cover entirely out.

The fuel line removal tool is 3/8" size.

 

You didn't lead me astray. I checked the bolts after I read you post. You get credit. The hardest bolt is the back lower driver's side. I have the special sockets with universal to reach that. Thanks for the tip.

 

The drip is on the passenger side. There is hope.

 

I had my mechanic replace the gaskets about 4 times. Luckily, we used factory parts and the labor was covered on warranty. The valve covers were warped and by changing those out, we finally were able to get it to stop leaking.

 

Are the valve covers plastic? Too much plastic in these cars from fasteners to T-stat housings. It's ridiculous.

 

The valve cover is equipped with a shim for each bolt to prevent over torquing the valve cover gasket. When installing the gasket it is designed to be under the lip of the shim for the bolts to prevent leakage around them. It is also important to be sure the area for the gasket and the gasket are free of oil and dirt. Now if I recall the torque pattern is from the center out to both ends. Also note that you will see on the old gasket and block that a small dab of gasket seal was used where the chain cover attaches to the block and you may want to do this again to eliminate an oil leak at that location.

 

Interesting. If gently warped, I'd have thought the covers would have flattened themselves out as the bolts were tightened. Or was it more a case of the covers being distorted between the bolt holes, leaving little gaps in the middle that didn't compress the gasket enough? I've always checked stamped metal covers for such distortion, not sure I'd have thought to check on plastic ones.

Just wondering, storing tips for future use...

 

I guess warpage is a problem and I would think not following the bolt pattern would be a contributing factor however, not sure.