4.2 Supercharged Stock Vs. 1.5 Pulley
#1
4.2 Supercharged Stock Vs. 1.5 Pulley
Hello everyone I finally was able to get some answers to all our questions about " How much WHEEL HP does a stock 4.2 SC Jaguar have and one with the upgrade pulley" well after going thru almost all the post here about upgrade pulleys and dyno spec etc etc, I was able to get the information from two seperate threads posted here. I have attached a Pdf file that will show the dyno charts done on a stock 4.2 Supercharged engine and the dyno chart of the same engine with the 1.5 lb pulley upgrade. They where both done on a DynoJet so I guess we should have no issues here about Oh they are not the same dyno machines etc etc and all that crap, Im pretty sure that someone somewhere will still have something to say about "Conditions. Temps, humidity etc etc. OH COME ON guys the purpose is just to know if there was really a difference from stock to an upgrade pulley. and here are the results as I have gathered them from the 2 different threads posted here. I do not even remember if they are the same types of Jaguars, I know that the one with the pulley upgrade was an XJR. and here are the results:
STOCK 4.2 SUPERCHARGED ENGINE 322.62 WHP AND 312.93 TORQUE
4.2 SUPRCHRGD ENG WITH 1.5LB PULLEY 340.40 WHP AND 346.53 TORQUE
So there you have it folks, the pulley does make a difference.
I just ordered a complete lower and upper pulley kit from Eurotoys including the T-Stat (lower temp thermostat) for my 2003 S Type R and soon as its on and I have the Dyno specs I will post it here too.
STOCK 4.2 SUPERCHARGED ENGINE 322.62 WHP AND 312.93 TORQUE
4.2 SUPRCHRGD ENG WITH 1.5LB PULLEY 340.40 WHP AND 346.53 TORQUE
So there you have it folks, the pulley does make a difference.
I just ordered a complete lower and upper pulley kit from Eurotoys including the T-Stat (lower temp thermostat) for my 2003 S Type R and soon as its on and I have the Dyno specs I will post it here too.
Last edited by tntjag; 10-22-2009 at 07:55 PM. Reason: pdf attachment
#2
Yes the 340.4whp reading was from my XJR.
I actually just installed the low temp thermostat and the results are very good. I am running a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water plus a full bottle of water wetter.
Cruising temperature for my coolant prior to the thermostat and coolant change + water wetter was about 200F. Now cruising temperature has gone as low as 182F. Before the change, my car would overheat under extreme load(I assume due to a sticking thermostat) and now, the coolant peaked at 221F under extreme load. This may sound warm, however, the factory thermostat opens at 212F.
I am pleased with the thermostat...installation was a snap!
I actually just installed the low temp thermostat and the results are very good. I am running a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water plus a full bottle of water wetter.
Cruising temperature for my coolant prior to the thermostat and coolant change + water wetter was about 200F. Now cruising temperature has gone as low as 182F. Before the change, my car would overheat under extreme load(I assume due to a sticking thermostat) and now, the coolant peaked at 221F under extreme load. This may sound warm, however, the factory thermostat opens at 212F.
I am pleased with the thermostat...installation was a snap!
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TM08XKR (08-03-2022)
#3
Thanks for that info, good heads up.
I had to subscribe because I am dying to see if Eurotoys' full pulley kits live up to their claims (or guesses, I should call it, because judging from their website they do not do any dyno testing and are not concerned with giving any info or proof!).
Keep us posted!
I had to subscribe because I am dying to see if Eurotoys' full pulley kits live up to their claims (or guesses, I should call it, because judging from their website they do not do any dyno testing and are not concerned with giving any info or proof!).
Keep us posted!
#4
Thanks for sharing, good stuff.
The low 4th gear value is indeed due to heat soak, the fan in front the car is not that impressive. There will be much more airflow at 100mph than this tiny fan can delivery….
In 3rd gear the air to fuel ratio wasn’t that bad, personally I stay with about 11.5, especially when boosting up everything, as you do not want to be too close to detonation levels.
I would not say there is no gain, but you would need to have the same conditions (like temp, type of dyno, tire pressure and intercooler water temperature) for true comparison. 10 rwhp up or down is within the error margin. For comparisons I always measure the intercooler temp between runs to ensure as good as possible realistic figures.
There is a small difference in temperature the second run, and although I assume the hp figures are SAE adjusted, temperature difference on supercharged cars seems much bigger than that.
My advice is to do a custom tune on your car once you have done all the mods you want to do, as when you increase boost & temperature you don’t want to be to lean/ignition to advanced.
Good luck on the next steps!
The low 4th gear value is indeed due to heat soak, the fan in front the car is not that impressive. There will be much more airflow at 100mph than this tiny fan can delivery….
In 3rd gear the air to fuel ratio wasn’t that bad, personally I stay with about 11.5, especially when boosting up everything, as you do not want to be too close to detonation levels.
I would not say there is no gain, but you would need to have the same conditions (like temp, type of dyno, tire pressure and intercooler water temperature) for true comparison. 10 rwhp up or down is within the error margin. For comparisons I always measure the intercooler temp between runs to ensure as good as possible realistic figures.
There is a small difference in temperature the second run, and although I assume the hp figures are SAE adjusted, temperature difference on supercharged cars seems much bigger than that.
My advice is to do a custom tune on your car once you have done all the mods you want to do, as when you increase boost & temperature you don’t want to be to lean/ignition to advanced.
Good luck on the next steps!
#7
what about going even smaller with the pulley and adding alky injection? Can't you just go to a ford shop used to working on the lightnings and cobras and have them swap the pulley for you? The alky injection would add back some of the efficency that would be lost by really spinning the m112 blower. Sorry if this is a newbie question.
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#8
#9
I'm guessing that's directed at my question.
Why would it not work. There's 1000's of people running alky injection on their terminator mustangs, maggie vettes and other roots/hybrid roots/helix supercharged cars. I typically find it's worth 50 hp on a 500 hp car.
Back to the thread... love to see dyno sheets with the eurotoys package installed. Anyone know how much work it is to install the lower pulley?
Why would it not work. There's 1000's of people running alky injection on their terminator mustangs, maggie vettes and other roots/hybrid roots/helix supercharged cars. I typically find it's worth 50 hp on a 500 hp car.
Back to the thread... love to see dyno sheets with the eurotoys package installed. Anyone know how much work it is to install the lower pulley?
#10
Yes the 340.4whp reading was from my XJR.
I actually just installed the low temp thermostat and the results are very good. I am running a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water plus a full bottle of water wetter.
Cruising temperature for my coolant prior to the thermostat and coolant change + water wetter was about 200F. Now cruising temperature has gone as low as 182F. Before the change, my car would overheat under extreme load(I assume due to a sticking thermostat) and now, the coolant peaked at 221F under extreme load. This may sound warm, however, the factory thermostat opens at 212F.
I am pleased with the thermostat...installation was a snap!
I actually just installed the low temp thermostat and the results are very good. I am running a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water plus a full bottle of water wetter.
Cruising temperature for my coolant prior to the thermostat and coolant change + water wetter was about 200F. Now cruising temperature has gone as low as 182F. Before the change, my car would overheat under extreme load(I assume due to a sticking thermostat) and now, the coolant peaked at 221F under extreme load. This may sound warm, however, the factory thermostat opens at 212F.
I am pleased with the thermostat...installation was a snap!
I am considering buying it for my 01XJR. The heat soak does get to me when playing around, but its not good to run to cold and stay in open loop mode, for many reasons.
#11
tntjag and the rest of yas, thank you for this excellent smaller pulley low temp thermo thread. I'm at the "pulley, etc." juncture too. I'm also sitting at the edge of my seat to see if tntjag's EuroToys pulley, crank, and low temp thermo install puts out. He'll need a tune soon afterwards to bring it all together.
I spoke with John, owner of Broadway Performance (NJ). He's installing a dyno and wants to tune our cars. I'm slated to visit his shop to learn if he's the man. I'll keep yas posted.
I spoke with John, owner of Broadway Performance (NJ). He's installing a dyno and wants to tune our cars. I'm slated to visit his shop to learn if he's the man. I'll keep yas posted.
#13
#15
BFG, I just happened to notice that you have spoken to John at Broadway..that is great..he is a great guy and knows his stuff. I am bringing my car there in Nov to have my Mina mufflers, high flow cats and a couple other things put on. I am not sure if he will ever be able to do the ECU tuning though..
#16
08ZO6, The last time I spoke with John of Broadway Performance was almost 5 months ago. He said he can tune Jags but remained ambiguous to answering my specific questions i.e. methods, access to software, ect.. Otherwise, I agree with you...he doesn't have the ability to tune Jags. Let us know your experience with Broadway Performance.
#18
Mafioso, I drive both relaxed and aggressively. The stock ECU program's ability to negotiate modifications seems adequate to run the engine very well. The mods performed on my STR transformed her into a beast both in a sprint and 1/4 mile. Put it this way, I'm not fearful to duke it out with many a late model muscle (Camaro, Dodge, BMW, Audi, etc.). I know what they can do and I'm confident my STR is up to the task. Though I'll perform a dyno-tune in the near future to back up my claim...I'm estimating she's churning out at or near 450 hp @ 460 lb/ft torque (without an ECU tune).
Last edited by bfsgross; 10-26-2010 at 03:50 PM.
#19
Well the deeper I dig into the ecu the more it appeals to me to leave it alone.
Here is my reasoning when you do the dyno tune you are taking a 1/4 inch metal stock and turning it into a sword yes you will gain more power but at what risk? You are effectively narrowing down your safety margin and performance margin.
The more I look at data logs and read them the more the ecu amazes me. We have adaptive tuning the ecu is constantly adjusting to get "target afr" which if I translated the fuel table correctly appears to be in the ballpark of 11-11.5 afr. In a boosted car prime afr is 12.5 non boosted is 14.5.
It's constantly adjusting timing fuel pressure injector timing and pulse width
Long story short with a tune you are going to narrow the window were it will run like a bat out of hell and widen the risk where problems can occur. At least here in Texas it's just not a good idea home of where it's 105 degrees one day 80 the next. I'd rather not have a window when I can I drive the car because of unfavorable weather. Unless it's not your DD then by all means do a TS blower shave the heads and run a blend of Avgas and pump gas and get a 700whp+ beast.
I'm thinking of what's best for the pocket book and playing devils advocate
Prime example look at Andre why hasn't he tuned his TS conversion. I'm just not sold on tuning the STR nor the pretuned ecu's companies advertise
Here is my reasoning when you do the dyno tune you are taking a 1/4 inch metal stock and turning it into a sword yes you will gain more power but at what risk? You are effectively narrowing down your safety margin and performance margin.
The more I look at data logs and read them the more the ecu amazes me. We have adaptive tuning the ecu is constantly adjusting to get "target afr" which if I translated the fuel table correctly appears to be in the ballpark of 11-11.5 afr. In a boosted car prime afr is 12.5 non boosted is 14.5.
It's constantly adjusting timing fuel pressure injector timing and pulse width
Long story short with a tune you are going to narrow the window were it will run like a bat out of hell and widen the risk where problems can occur. At least here in Texas it's just not a good idea home of where it's 105 degrees one day 80 the next. I'd rather not have a window when I can I drive the car because of unfavorable weather. Unless it's not your DD then by all means do a TS blower shave the heads and run a blend of Avgas and pump gas and get a 700whp+ beast.
I'm thinking of what's best for the pocket book and playing devils advocate
Prime example look at Andre why hasn't he tuned his TS conversion. I'm just not sold on tuning the STR nor the pretuned ecu's companies advertise
#20
I'm agreeing with you on the ECU's adaptability. My 02 X-Type 3.0 ran great following an airbox and full exhaust mod...my STR is performing very well under her new parameters too. I still want to dyno-tune her whilst staying within safe parameters. More power in exchange for engine safety is def. not worth the thrill.
Last edited by bfsgross; 10-26-2010 at 03:51 PM.