How difficult would the swap be from a 5R55N transmission from a pre 2003 s-type 4.0L to a ZF from a post 2003 4.2L?

I have not seen any information on the forum about it, so I'm assuming it requires fab work or tuning beyond what its worth? lolol.

My transmission is working beautifully at 91k and am unsure if its been replaced/serviced as I'm not the original owner. I was just curious because I know these transmissions are and if it goes, and is practical, I would upgrade...


Side question, If it is near impossible, I was thinking of changing the ATF with the cheap Castrol equivalent, (well maybe not equivalent) and just servicing it regularly say every 20k-30k? Any comments or concerns on that idea? My thoughts are, if it is a sufficient ATF and I'm going to replace with non lifetime ATF why not go cheap and just keep it clean?

IMHO cheaper clean ATF>>>>> dirty, "lifetime", expensive as ***** ATF

As always I appreciate any time spent helping me. You guys have been a wealth of knowledge and I will definitely take all advice as words of wisdom. These forums have been great at learning soooo much about my S-type in just weeks time. Some of you know these cars better then I ever will and its great to pick your brains.

Every time i come on this forum and click around I feel like Goku entering a hyperbolic chamber... but learning about S-types lol.

 

Regarding swapping your 5R55N for a ZF 6HP26, I believe the associated costs to do so could exceed the value of the car and you still might not be able to get the electronics fully integrated. I would stick with what you have....

Regarding your existing ATF, I would indeed do a drain-and-fill using a decent ATF that meets the required specs for the 5R55N. Your existing ATF's friction modifiers have long since worn out. Don't know that you need to do a drain-and-fill every 20,000 to 30,000 miles, that may be a bit of overkill. Research the recommended ATF change interval for the typical 5R55N before you decide on how often you'll change your ATF in the future....

 

I don't know why you would even want to. The 5R55N is a commondity FOMOCO transmission that is used in millions of cars. Any trans repair shop will have a whole room of replacements ready and will recognize/understand everything about it.

Not true with a ZF...

==================================================
Jaguar: Grace, Pace, and Space - Sir William Lyons
Current Hers: '13 Lexus ES350
Current Mine: '08 Jaguar S-Type 4.2 "Satin Edition" (250.06 whp / 259.67 torque)
Past Ours: '05 X-Type 3.0/auto Jaguar Racing Green

 

Need to rewire car and change all modules. Sell car, buy other car.

 

Any thoughts/suggestions on the cheapest synthetic fluid available? I'm guessing this transmission had the pan and filter integrated together as the zf does? Did this transmission have the leaky sleeve problem as well?

 

The Ford-supplied 5R55N gearbox uses Mercon V fluid, which is readily available. Given the age of the vehicle, it may be best to drain, replace the pan gasket and filter and refill with fresh fluid.

The designs are quite different as is the fluid specification. If you do not already have it, refer to JTIS for further information and proper procedures. It happens to be a free download on this forum in the 'sticky' section.

 

Many thanks!

 

In a word "impossible"... Take JagV8's advice...

 

One last question... I am going to attempt to flush the transmission after I drop the pan, before I top it off at the pan according to the methods learned on this site.

Where are the feed and return lines located on the radiator that cool the ATF, and are they "easily accessible" from under the car or under the hood? Going to let the feed line pump a quart, then fill a quart, then pump, until fluid looks nice.

A simple lower driver side, or lower passenger side etc. would be great if someone happens to know off hand. I'm sure I can find em if required, but I really don't want to pull stuff out of the way and waste my time only to find that there is no easy way to access them lol.


THANKS BROS!

 

Read through the procedure on JTIS and become familiar with the location of the items.

Be sure you can remove the fill plug on the upper RH side of the gearbox prior to draining the fluid.

 

O yeah... I'm going to drain and drop the pan, throw a filter in, then i'm going to put the pan back, flush, then make sure its at the proper level.

Nice to know the 5r55n takes a standard filter and it isn't integrated into the pan. Looks like it is only going to cost like 25 bucks for a gasket and filter.

 

I just re-did mine, filled it at least 3 times in the process of "fixing" it...I was getting a Jag code of P0731 (wrong gear ratio) as my only code...I used the method described by Grant Francis in the "How to" section...

As far as the 5R55N tranny there are a lot of these compared tot eh others, but not as many as you might think since the 5R55"N" is the product and not the "W" or "S" which there are a plethora of...

As far as the "cheap Castrol" product I would stay away from it, one the issues with these transmissions that Ford had to address was the original tranny fluid could cause the solenoids to fail they rectified this and there are service write-ups about it in both Jag and Ford forums, the Motorcraft Mercon V is not going to cost you very much more than the Castrol (maybe $6-$10 total) for that price it would be a fools errand to put in a non-spec'd fluid and change it out later...the Motorcraft WITH an additive is what is recommended by the Ford guys who own this tranny and there are a few good youtube vids explaining as much.

My transmission broke the overdrive servo spring which is not a common spring to fail and there were not any in any of the rebuild kits, I replaced it with an "alternate" repurposed spring and my car has been running smooth and fine ever since, but I think a big part of it was the new fluid...

If you simply follow the "How-to" guide and use the Motorcraft fluid (maybe do it twice to flush the old stuff out as much as possible) my guess is you can extend the life quite a bit...

By the way my 2001 had over 149K miles on it and was the original fluid and replacing it seems to have given it new life...I will redo the springs in the valve body later this spring because I think I dodged a bullet but if you are not one to take apart the valve body and everything is running I think you can forego this.

 

Yep the Ford unit is fine and works well. Much cheaper and easier to get parts/work done on it too. I would stay with Mercon fluid as it is not expensive and changing the filter is also a good idea.
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Is the Motorcraft mercon 5 sold with the additive mixed in already? or is that a mix it yourself kind of deal?

I haven't encountered any common problems such as the delay engaging reverse and such. Shifts pretty smooth, I think I am just going to do the fluid and keep my fingers crossed lol...

I have so much other work to do to the car, that I think I'll stick to just the fluid. I have already changed the upper control arms, tie rod ends, sway bar links in the front. I also have 4 KYB struts, rear lateral links and sway bar links, rear/front lower control arm bushings, and an alternator sitting in the garage waiting to go in. Will probably get all that put in over 2-3 days next week. I'm hoping that gets rid of my TERRIBLE creaking lol, all the bushing and ball joints in this car looked like someone poured acid on them when I got it about 1 month ago.

 

Just use the Motorcraft Mercon V, I added a bottle of Lubegard Platinum because of all the reading I had done and research but frankly I think it is unnecessary with what Ford has done in the newer fluids.

My main info came from the Ford LS forums...