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5w30 Mobile 1 synthetic or Mobile 1 high mileage synthetic oil??

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  #21  
Old 11-02-2010, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by jagv8
And... how much is it burning in how many miles?

Gutted to say mine has started burning some. Had to top it up (from the min to the max) after 5K miles from the last service
its burning less than 1/4 of a quart since my last oil change which was almost 2,000 miles ago. Did you check your engine oil like early morning or after its warmed up? I'm finding conflicting answers to this. The manual says preferably when the engine is cold, but when I look online at the Jaguar sites they say when its warm to check the engine oil level
 
  #22  
Old 11-02-2010, 02:58 PM
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I'd say after warm up since hot any thing expands and fact you have no need to check it or worry when parked overnight
 
  #23  
Old 11-02-2010, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Mafioso
I'd say after warm up since hot any thing expands and fact you have no need to check it or worry when parked overnight
Or we could actually RTFM which states:

Checking and top up
Check engine oil level
Check the oil level regularly with the vehicle on flat, level
ground.
Refer to page 7-5 or page 7-6 for dipstick and oil filler
locations.
It is preferable to check the oil level after the vehicle has been
standing, that is, with the engine completely cold.

If the engine has been started do not check the oil level until the
engine has reached normal operating temperature. Stop the
engine and wait for a minimum of 5 minutes to allow the oil to
drain back into the sump.
Remove the dipstick (A) and wipe clean with a non-fluffy cloth.
Replace fully, then withdraw the dipstick. If the oil level is above
the lower of the two dots on the dipstick then no additional oil
is required.
If the oil level reaches the lower of the two dots, remove the oil
filler cap (B) and add oil, to the quantity and specification
shown on the next page.
Refit the filler cap and hand tighten securely.
Caution: Do not use oil additives of any type. Use only
specified lubricants.


Not picking on you (really) but at least read the books...........
 
  #24  
Old 11-02-2010, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Mikey
Or we could actually RTFM which states:

Checking and top up
Check engine oil level
Check the oil level regularly with the vehicle on flat, level
ground.
Refer to page 7-5 or page 7-6 for dipstick and oil filler
locations.
It is preferable to check the oil level after the vehicle has been
standing, that is, with the engine completely cold.

If the engine has been started do not check the oil level until the
engine has reached normal operating temperature. Stop the
engine and wait for a minimum of 5 minutes to allow the oil to
drain back into the sump.
Remove the dipstick (A) and wipe clean with a non-fluffy cloth.
Replace fully, then withdraw the dipstick. If the oil level is above
the lower of the two dots on the dipstick then no additional oil
is required.
If the oil level reaches the lower of the two dots, remove the oil
filler cap (B) and add oil, to the quantity and specification
shown on the next page.
Refit the filler cap and hand tighten securely.
Caution: Do not use oil additives of any type. Use only
specified lubricants.


Not picking on you (really) but at least read the books...........
Big Mike, I read that in the manual also but what Mafioso said is true also. The problem I'm facing is, the stupid dipstick isn't showing me accurately how full or less the oil level is where the two open dots are on the dipstick when the engine is completely cold like in the morning. But when the car is warm, the level on the dipstick shows that its right at the lower open dot(minimum), not the dot which is MAX.
 

Last edited by jag79; 11-02-2010 at 04:21 PM.
  #25  
Old 11-02-2010, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Mikey
No mention of going beyond 5W-40, and nothing about moving up the scale with older engines. If critical clearances were excessive, oil pressure would drop. There is no reported low oil pressure, nor would a thick oil 'fix' the problem even if there was. If it is a valve seal that is allowing excessive consumption, thick oil wouldn't help that or fix it either.

Sorry, second guessing OEMs by using shade tree engineering logic rubs me the wrong way.
Are you familiar with the viscosity scale? what the first number represents vs the second number?

Guess you can blame my Shade tree engineering logic on the U.S. Army for being a light duty fuel/electrical and mechinical specialist.
 
  #26  
Old 11-02-2010, 04:27 PM
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jag79 - I think you may be overdoing the "stupid" (dipstick) part but in any case why not just add some oil, maybe even the amount stated in the handbook?
 
  #27  
Old 11-02-2010, 04:30 PM
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Well going back to RTFM,

Sure its written by someone with deeper pockets then me, it doesnt mean it makes sense.

Why would you check the oil when cold? when it expands you risk overfill?

Printed material isnt always logical.
 
  #28  
Old 11-02-2010, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Mafioso
Well going back to RTFM,

Sure its written by someone with deeper pockets then me, it doesnt mean it makes sense.

Why would you check the oil when cold? when it expands you risk overfill?

Printed material isnt always logical.
Mafiosooooooooooooooooooooooooo and Mikey LOLzzz check out what I found http://www.autohausaz.com/jaguar-aut...intenance.html , they even say like Mafioso said "Check the oil when the engine is warm. Oil expands when it's hot and contracts when it's cold; different temperatures will give you different readings. Turn off the engine. It's best to wait at least 10 minutes to give the oil a chance to drain down into the crankcase. Otherwise, you might think you're as much as a quart low when you're not."
 

Last edited by jag79; 11-02-2010 at 04:40 PM.
  #29  
Old 11-02-2010, 04:48 PM
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The way I RTFM it says that it doesn't matter wether the engine is hot or cold as long as you wait for the oil to drain back to the sump.

However it does say cold is preferable which would indicate that the dipstick was calibrated for cold oil? Just my
 
  #30  
Old 11-02-2010, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by norri
The way I RTFM it says that it doesn't matter wether the engine is hot or cold as long as you wait for the oil to drain back to the sump.

However it does say cold is preferable which would indicate that the dipstick was calibrated for cold oil? Just my

Scary but nice side of the other coin!
 
  #31  
Old 11-02-2010, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jagv8
Read the ... wow, what an idea!!


Classic... Specially from you, Jag!
 
  #32  
Old 11-02-2010, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Mafioso
Scary but nice side of the other coin!
How scary? That's what the bible says isn't it?

In my experience cold has always been the way to go so that's what I do.

Maybe some of our boffins would care to give an opinion on how much the oil will expand when it is hot.
 
  #33  
Old 11-02-2010, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by norri
The way I RTFM it says that it doesn't matter wether the engine is hot or cold as long as you wait for the oil to drain back to the sump.

However it does say cold is preferable which would indicate that the dipstick was calibrated for cold oil? Just my
Bingo! It was calibrated for a certain condition.
 
  #34  
Old 11-02-2010, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by norri

Maybe some of our boffins would care to give an opinion on how much the oil will expand when it is hot.
The oil doesn't really expand anywhere near as much as the engine that holds it changes shape in all directions. Somewhere around .07% for a 200C increase. That's it.

The article above references 'drain back period'. Different subject.
 
  #35  
Old 11-02-2010, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Mafioso
Are you familiar with the viscosity scale? what the first number represents vs the second number?

Guess you can blame my Shade tree engineering logic on the U.S. Army for being a light duty fuel/electrical and mechinical specialist.
Sorry, not going to play the ePen*s game- I spent 31 years at a major engine OEM, designing and supporting them.
 
  #36  
Old 11-02-2010, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Mikey
The oil doesn't really expand anywhere near as much as the engine that holds it changes shape in all directions. Somewhere around .07% for a 200C increase. That's it.

The article above references 'drain back period'. Different subject.
You know I wasn't considering the engine expansion however I don't think that we are concerned with overall expansion but merely the sump expansion.

So from my non scientific view it is the drain back that's crucial which is probably the foundation for the old school check it cold rule.

I could think of someone who may have a switch it off and drink two cheap cold beers rule.
 
  #37  
Old 11-02-2010, 08:30 PM
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Glad it finished in a civil manor just going by what I was taught by uncle Sam but then again his much could he care if he is spending our dollars lol
 
  #38  
Old 11-02-2010, 08:34 PM
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Somehow, oil discussion threads always end up like this ...

Sometimes I think that what you use for oil should be like voting on election day, secret ballot.
 
  #39  
Old 11-02-2010, 08:36 PM
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Buahahahahaha!!
 
  #40  
Old 11-02-2010, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by norri
I could think of someone who may have a switch it off and drink two cheap cold beers rule.
Who else drinks cold cheap beers? Maybe we could start a "cheap cold beers" sticky norri.....
 


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