5w30 Mobile 1 synthetic or Mobile 1 high mileage synthetic oil??
#21
its burning less than 1/4 of a quart since my last oil change which was almost 2,000 miles ago. Did you check your engine oil like early morning or after its warmed up? I'm finding conflicting answers to this. The manual says preferably when the engine is cold, but when I look online at the Jaguar sites they say when its warm to check the engine oil level
#23
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Location: Perth Ontario Canada
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Checking and top up
Check engine oil level
Check the oil level regularly with the vehicle on flat, level
ground.
Refer to page 7-5 or page 7-6 for dipstick and oil filler
locations.
It is preferable to check the oil level after the vehicle has been
standing, that is, with the engine completely cold.
If the engine has been started do not check the oil level until the
engine has reached normal operating temperature. Stop the
engine and wait for a minimum of 5 minutes to allow the oil to
drain back into the sump.
Remove the dipstick (A) and wipe clean with a non-fluffy cloth.
Replace fully, then withdraw the dipstick. If the oil level is above
the lower of the two dots on the dipstick then no additional oil
is required.
If the oil level reaches the lower of the two dots, remove the oil
filler cap (B) and add oil, to the quantity and specification
shown on the next page.
Refit the filler cap and hand tighten securely.
Caution: Do not use oil additives of any type. Use only
specified lubricants.
Not picking on you (really) but at least read the books...........
#24
Or we could actually RTFM which states:
Checking and top up
Check engine oil level
Check the oil level regularly with the vehicle on flat, level
ground.
Refer to page 7-5 or page 7-6 for dipstick and oil filler
locations.
It is preferable to check the oil level after the vehicle has been
standing, that is, with the engine completely cold.
If the engine has been started do not check the oil level until the
engine has reached normal operating temperature. Stop the
engine and wait for a minimum of 5 minutes to allow the oil to
drain back into the sump.
Remove the dipstick (A) and wipe clean with a non-fluffy cloth.
Replace fully, then withdraw the dipstick. If the oil level is above
the lower of the two dots on the dipstick then no additional oil
is required.
If the oil level reaches the lower of the two dots, remove the oil
filler cap (B) and add oil, to the quantity and specification
shown on the next page.
Refit the filler cap and hand tighten securely.
Caution: Do not use oil additives of any type. Use only
specified lubricants.
Not picking on you (really) but at least read the books...........
Checking and top up
Check engine oil level
Check the oil level regularly with the vehicle on flat, level
ground.
Refer to page 7-5 or page 7-6 for dipstick and oil filler
locations.
It is preferable to check the oil level after the vehicle has been
standing, that is, with the engine completely cold.
If the engine has been started do not check the oil level until the
engine has reached normal operating temperature. Stop the
engine and wait for a minimum of 5 minutes to allow the oil to
drain back into the sump.
Remove the dipstick (A) and wipe clean with a non-fluffy cloth.
Replace fully, then withdraw the dipstick. If the oil level is above
the lower of the two dots on the dipstick then no additional oil
is required.
If the oil level reaches the lower of the two dots, remove the oil
filler cap (B) and add oil, to the quantity and specification
shown on the next page.
Refit the filler cap and hand tighten securely.
Caution: Do not use oil additives of any type. Use only
specified lubricants.
Not picking on you (really) but at least read the books...........
Last edited by jag79; 11-02-2010 at 04:21 PM.
#25
No mention of going beyond 5W-40, and nothing about moving up the scale with older engines. If critical clearances were excessive, oil pressure would drop. There is no reported low oil pressure, nor would a thick oil 'fix' the problem even if there was. If it is a valve seal that is allowing excessive consumption, thick oil wouldn't help that or fix it either.
Sorry, second guessing OEMs by using shade tree engineering logic rubs me the wrong way.
Sorry, second guessing OEMs by using shade tree engineering logic rubs me the wrong way.
Guess you can blame my Shade tree engineering logic on the U.S. Army for being a light duty fuel/electrical and mechinical specialist.
#26
#27
#28
Last edited by jag79; 11-02-2010 at 04:40 PM.
#29
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#32
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How scary? That's what the bible says isn't it?
In my experience cold has always been the way to go so that's what I do.
Maybe some of our boffins would care to give an opinion on how much the oil will expand when it is hot.
In my experience cold has always been the way to go so that's what I do.
Maybe some of our boffins would care to give an opinion on how much the oil will expand when it is hot.
#33
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Bingo! It was calibrated for a certain condition.
#34
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The article above references 'drain back period'. Different subject.
#35
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Sorry, not going to play the ePen*s game- I spent 31 years at a major engine OEM, designing and supporting them.
#36
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So from my non scientific view it is the drain back that's crucial which is probably the foundation for the old school check it cold rule.
I could think of someone who may have a switch it off and drink two cheap cold beers rule.
#38
#40