About to give up....
#41
That was my thought; the local garage told me it would be pointless to replace it with the stock and too expensive. I asked them to get a quote and was told they would get back to me and have not heard from them... I will check around for the stock air box. You guys have been/are a tremendous help!
#42
There are some seriously good and helpful posts in this thread - nice work chaps!
Steve's post on the intercooler pump had me riveted like a spy novel.
OP - if you absolutely can't find a factory intake locally - there are plenty of us on the forum who now have a Mafioso intake and may be willing to part with thier OEM intake......
Steve's post on the intercooler pump had me riveted like a spy novel.
OP - if you absolutely can't find a factory intake locally - there are plenty of us on the forum who now have a Mafioso intake and may be willing to part with thier OEM intake......
#43
That was my thought; the local garage told me it would be pointless to replace it with the stock and too expensive. I asked them to get a quote and was told they would get back to me and have not heard from them... I will check around for the stock air box. You guys have been/are a tremendous help!
By the way, I like Chris' idea of a member with a Mafioso stepping up to sell his original airbox. That would be cool.
Just my two cents........
Last edited by xjrguy; 08-09-2011 at 03:52 PM.
#45
Forgive my ignorance, but I went to see if the SC coolant pump was indeed turning on and running. It is not easy to get to, and I am not sure how I would know if it was running or running properly? I received a new scanner today and the following is what I received at idle:
Calculated engine load value: 14%
Engine coolant temp: 206 degrees
Short term fuel trim bank 1: 0%
Long term fuel trim bank 1: 10%
Short term fuel trim bank 2: -1%
Long term fuel trim bank 2: 11%
Fuel pressure: 0
Intake manifold pressure: 12
Timing advance: 4
Intake temperature: 105
Mass air flow: 0 lbs/min
Oxygen voltage: bank 1, sensor 2: .120V
Short term fuel trim bank 1, sensor 2: 0%
Oxygen voltage bank 2, sensor 2: .120V
Short term fuel trim bank 2, sensor 2: 0%
Equivalence ratio O2S1: .992
Current O2S1: 0mA
Equivalence ratio O2S5: .977
Current: O2S5: 0mA
I don't know if this helps at all. I will get another reading while driving the car and having issues and will send that information as well.
Calculated engine load value: 14%
Engine coolant temp: 206 degrees
Short term fuel trim bank 1: 0%
Long term fuel trim bank 1: 10%
Short term fuel trim bank 2: -1%
Long term fuel trim bank 2: 11%
Fuel pressure: 0
Intake manifold pressure: 12
Timing advance: 4
Intake temperature: 105
Mass air flow: 0 lbs/min
Oxygen voltage: bank 1, sensor 2: .120V
Short term fuel trim bank 1, sensor 2: 0%
Oxygen voltage bank 2, sensor 2: .120V
Short term fuel trim bank 2, sensor 2: 0%
Equivalence ratio O2S1: .992
Current O2S1: 0mA
Equivalence ratio O2S5: .977
Current: O2S5: 0mA
I don't know if this helps at all. I will get another reading while driving the car and having issues and will send that information as well.
#49
I posted a video of the issue in question. The three times I rev enough to drop a gear and accelerate moderately, you can hear it in the background. It sounds like spark knock to me, but I can't be sure. When it is clicking / knocking / tapping / whatever adjective is most suitable, there is an extreme hesitation followed by very slowly increasing RPMs. It is not until the noise subsides that the revs climb faster. Here is the link:
‪IMG_1941.MOV‬‏ - YouTube
‪IMG_1941.MOV‬‏ - YouTube
#50
damn bro, put some gas in it.lol
you ever thought that maybe the torque converter is slipping??
that video almost looks like what mine was doing......there is the quote above, and a link to the actual post
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...p-again-18048/
__________________
you ever thought that maybe the torque converter is slipping??
06-01-2009, 07:46 PM say your doing 50-60 mph, and you gently accelerate ever so slightly, you get a feeling of either the engine misfiring or slipping....... going uphill increases the feeling. If you hit the gas a little harder it goes away for a time. Now it finally threw the code, but reset itself after the car turned off and back on again. I'll let you all know how it goes from here though.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...p-again-18048/
__________________
#51
damn bro, put some gas in it.lol
you ever thought that maybe the torque converter is slipping??
that video almost looks like what mine was doing......there is the quote above, and a link to the actual post
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...p-again-18048/
__________________
you ever thought that maybe the torque converter is slipping??
that video almost looks like what mine was doing......there is the quote above, and a link to the actual post
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...p-again-18048/
__________________
Last edited by jagstr03; 08-10-2011 at 12:17 AM.
#52
#53
I had ordered the KIWI WIFI tool that connects to the iPhone; now thinking I should return it and just spring for a normal ELM.
#54
Still need to find out about that intercooler pump, my friend! Something else you can do is pull the fuse and put an ammeter in there. I've noted down the nominal current draw for that pump to be 2.1 amps. That's a new pump, so draw of 2.1 to say 3.1 amps, I'd consider normal. You can also stick the probe of a stethoscope through the lower grill and listen to it while someone else turns on the ignition. Based on your symptoms, I'm not going to look elsewhere until I know that pump and system is working.
Get crackin'!
Cheers,
#55
I will agree with that! I use an ELM 327, a couple actually, in addition to the factory stuff. All kinds of good software out there to use with them.
Still need to find out about that intercooler pump, my friend! Something else you can do is pull the fuse and put an ammeter in there. I've noted down the nominal current draw for that pump to be 2.1 amps. That's a new pump, so draw of 2.1 to say 3.1 amps, I'd consider normal. You can also stick the probe of a stethoscope through the lower grill and listen to it while someone else turns on the ignition. Based on your symptoms, I'm not going to look elsewhere until I know that pump and system is working.
Get crackin'!
Cheers,
Still need to find out about that intercooler pump, my friend! Something else you can do is pull the fuse and put an ammeter in there. I've noted down the nominal current draw for that pump to be 2.1 amps. That's a new pump, so draw of 2.1 to say 3.1 amps, I'd consider normal. You can also stick the probe of a stethoscope through the lower grill and listen to it while someone else turns on the ignition. Based on your symptoms, I'm not going to look elsewhere until I know that pump and system is working.
Get crackin'!
Cheers,
Thanks!
#56
I will agree with that! I use an ELM 327, a couple actually, in addition to the factory stuff. All kinds of good software out there to use with them.
Still need to find out about that intercooler pump, my friend! Something else you can do is pull the fuse and put an ammeter in there. I've noted down the nominal current draw for that pump to be 2.1 amps. That's a new pump, so draw of 2.1 to say 3.1 amps, I'd consider normal. You can also stick the probe of a stethoscope through the lower grill and listen to it while someone else turns on the ignition. Based on your symptoms, I'm not going to look elsewhere until I know that pump and system is working.
Get crackin'!
Cheers,
Still need to find out about that intercooler pump, my friend! Something else you can do is pull the fuse and put an ammeter in there. I've noted down the nominal current draw for that pump to be 2.1 amps. That's a new pump, so draw of 2.1 to say 3.1 amps, I'd consider normal. You can also stick the probe of a stethoscope through the lower grill and listen to it while someone else turns on the ignition. Based on your symptoms, I'm not going to look elsewhere until I know that pump and system is working.
Get crackin'!
Cheers,
#58